Jump to content

Looking For Hids

JRLZ71

Recommended Posts

250motorsportz Enthusiast

250motorsportz

Posted
Posted

www.ddmtuning.com - great quality products priced very reasonable. You need H11 for lows, 9005 for highs and H16(5202) for fogs. I have 6000k which is a nice colour and light output. I wouldnt go any higher. If you want something closer to OEM Look, go with 5500k. Good luck!

JRLZ71 Enthusiast

JRLZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
www.ddmtuning.com - great quality products priced very reasonable. You need H11 for lows, 9005 for highs and H16(5202) for fogs. I have 6000k which is a nice colour and light output. I wouldnt go any higher. If you want something closer to OEM Look, go with 5500k. Good luck!

Thanks! Another question, what do I to enter for wattage, and do I need the HID harness, error eliminator, or adapter cables?

ATXSerria Enthusiast

ATXSerria

Posted
Posted

It depends what lights you'll be replacing. If you're only replacing the low beams, you only need the H11 plug and play kit, no other harness or cables needed. The 35w should be fine, you really don't need anything higher.

 

I order my DDM kit and should be here Friday, I can't wait to install them!

250motorsportz Enthusiast

250motorsportz

Posted
Posted

The DRL problem has a few fixes...pull your DRL fuse from the fusebox under the hood, get a relay so the lights run directly off your battery(thus not interfering with the DRL's), or cover up the little dome sensor on your dash and that will "trick" the computer to thinking it's night time all the time. Every fix works, its up to personal preference. I would stick with 35W as i've never used 55W.

MotoMedic Senior Enthusiast

MotoMedic

Posted
Posted

DDM's Apexcone Raptor HID Kit versus DDM's HID Kit Slim Ballast

 

...which one is better? which one is better for my GMT-900 Sierra?

250motorsportz Enthusiast

250motorsportz

Posted
Posted

I personally prefer the raptors. Only difference is the size of the ballast. The bigger ones have the igniter built in and the slim ballasts have a external igniter. By previous experience, i've had problems with slim ballasts.

uchi Enthusiast

uchi

Posted
Posted

my bike has had 2 sets of slim ballast hids with internal igniters, neiuther have given me a problem, my explorer had external igniters, nothing but problems, and my old cavalier had externals aswell and was fine but needed a relay kit. i guess its hit and miss. just dont buy a cheap kit as you get what you pay for

MotoMedic Senior Enthusiast

MotoMedic

Posted
Posted
just dont buy a cheap kit as you get what you pay for

 

That's what kind of has me concerned... DDM Raptor HID Kit, 35W, H11, 5000K is only $25??? Seems too good to be true.

 

 

 

250motor- how long have you had yours installed?

jonnyisback Enthusiast

jonnyisback

Posted
Posted

I have some hids in high and lows from hidextra but ive heard good things from ddm. I had one of my ballast go bad within the first year but was replaced under warranty but now they are out of warranty so hopefully i wont have anything else fail for a while. It seems like the larger ballasts are all the same no matter which manufacturer you buy from so ive been told. I would probably buy the cheapest ones with the best warranty.

uchi Enthusiast

uchi

Posted
Posted

i ended up buying a set locally last night from a friends shop. maxcar brand, they had cheap cheaper and expensive, i picked the expensive ones. figured there was a reason for them to be more money and since i plan on keeping this truck for a long time i wanted a kit that would last. install was a breeze on the truck took all of 30 minutes. longest part was trying to find a place to stash the ballast. and they work great. fired up without any flickering. the warm up time was nearly instant too, not like the older kits where theyd go bright then dull and then slowly brighten. these ones seem to come on full bright almost instantly. also one thing to keep in mind, the better kits arent as prone to failure as the cheaper kits are when you restart the light. that was a concern i had for my bike and the guy from the retrofit source said their kits arent affected by repeated restarts. not to say go out side and cycle the light 100 times, but being a carbed bike mine sometimes stalls while being warmed up, more so when it hasnt been run for a while. so im hoping the same hold true for these. although from the quick warm up times i see it being the same. so my plan for them is if they come on when i turn the key forward, give them a few seconds to warm up then start the truck.

250motorsportz Enthusiast

250motorsportz

Posted
Posted

I've had mine for just about a year now. I've actually done over 100 installs and sales of the DDM kits and only had 2 ballasts fry on me so far (covered under warranty!) The kits are now $20 - you cant go wrong!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Thank you for keeping the train on the tracks and for a thoughtful engagement. I enjoyed the reflection on a previous stance to refine and improve your position. I like that inquisitive flexibility about you Atlas.    No the process isn't sterile. Hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles of piping, vessels, pumps. Chevron, the people I worked for, were keenly aware that there is a market for what is known as their "ISOCLEAN" line of lubricants. These are lubricants that are the same as those sold bulk that are further processed by filtration to a level your particular application demands. They will filter and package and provide lab documentation as required.   There are requirements set by manufactures for the cleanliness of the oils used in their equipment. OTR such as CUMMINS has standards shared with customers on this. Commercial interest selling to Ma and Pa do, but don't share that information. Not even upon request but internally, they do exist.    The GM study sited, (Graph from Machinery Lubrication in previous post) only shows "relative" importance.  I find that fascinating. By constructing the graph like this they admit there are dozens of factors in engine life and via scientific method determined the effect of 'relative cleanliness' on engine life not in miles but in 'FACTORS'. This allows a certain amount of reverse engineering does it not?   They even provided some touchstones. Beta 75 as a reference point. Wonderful stuff!!   Smaller blenders CAN and some DO take the time and effort to do better than a refinery or large bulk blender, like Warren Oil, in improving the "in the can" cleanliness. No I don't have a list but testing could generate that information.    Again, but one of several levers we can pull to improve engine life. The simplest is keeping a clean work station while doing your own oil changes.     
    • Mykel544
      New Guy from Oklahoma

      By Mykel544 · Posted

      Thank you. I'll give it a try 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I just spent the last 45K miles doing samples every oil change over more than a full year to get the data for seasons and break-in to broke in.    I found the same thing to be true. Something was always teetering on done or had stepped off the cliff long before the OLM was DOA. In fact, I found about a thousand mile difference between summer and winter. That is during the winter half the OLM was STILL too long. Even the severe schedule was to long in the winter.   Now having done the work I can say I was NOT DISAPOINTED. I saw nothing I didn't already know. Nothing my father hadn't already demonstrated in his 2K OCI's pushing dated iron on dated oils and weak filters to mileages well beyond 300K.   Building on his work through use of Lab testing it wasn't hard to find the correlation between 'sight/feel/odor, the things dad relied on, and test results. Use of current viscosity stable chemistries & filters has pushed that marker for my motors out to 3K summer, 4K winter.    So the early lies were 3K on conventional oil and the lie upon the lie was 7K+. turns out to be off by a factor of two.    So... it is true that modern chemistry has doubled the useful oil life. But the base milage that came from was off by double. It's how good lies work. Partly true, sometimes mostly true so that your meter isn't set off. It also means that non-shear-stable shelf oils are only now as good as the old oils were in their best case scenario.    So the question now is how do we improve on that? Thus the question into cleanliness among the other items listed in the post quoted below.    If this bores you, feel free not to participate.       
    • newdude
      2027 Chevrolet Silverado: Official Discussion

      By newdude · Posted

      Is it though?  Like LTZ, not a high take rate.  Current Sierra has AT4, Denali and Elevation as its main bread winners.  Each trim accounting for 25-35% of sales for Sierra.  SLT makes up about 10-15% at best.        Like others have predicted here for GMC, it will be:   - Pro (equal to WT Chevy)   - Elevation (replaces SLE and SLT)   - AT4 (and X)   - Denali (and Ultimate).  
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Coming back to this question, *my* answer is no, it's not something about which I'm knowledgeable. I'd need to read up on it and understand how it applies to we the consumer and our oil change regimens.   One of your bolded points is that fresh oil in a container contains particulate matter. I don't think I'm surprised, maybe a little bit that it seems to be a major factor, but there's manufacturing process involved in oil and it doesn't exactly come in sterile packaging.    How much is filtered out on the first start by an acceptable quality filter (AC Delco, as a baseline) filter?   On the GM OLM discussion, just saying that the "number of engine revolutions" appears to be a factor in oil life... cough... maybe driving style *does* matter.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...