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Weird Problem When Installing Rc 2" Level.


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Posted

So got the passenger side on with one minor hitch. Just had a bit of trouble with the sway bar links. But anyway, moving on. I can't seem to get the driver side upper ball joint to release out of the the hub assembly. A few light taps got the passenger side out fine. But i have tried everything. Heat, hammer, air hammer, penetrating lube I even went as far as trying to pry it. But it will not release from the hub assembly.

 

Any ideas or pointers? I'd really have to take it to the shop with one side higher then the other. I have the tools and brain capacity to do this. And the left front wheel bearing was recently replaced at the Chev dealer. The on;y other thing would be maybe using a splitter or jack to some how put force to separate it....it's 2 am here and i have been fighting with it since 11 haha time for bed and start fresh in the am.

 

Thanks Caleb

Posted

Bigger hammer always works for me!

 

I usually use a 3lb dead blow for the ball joints. Smack the knuckle right where the crown of the curve is, at the smallest portion flat on the side. Hope that makes sense. Beating repeatativly works wonders, nice soild whacks not angry flailing.

 

 

On a side note many members to include myself have done this without removing the ball joints. Disconnect the swaybar and then let the wheel assembly hang with the body supported at the frame. Disconnect shock lower bolts and use a pry bar as leverage to gain room for the block.

Posted
Bigger hammer always works for me!

 

I usually use a 3lb dead blow for the ball joints. Smack the knuckle right where the crown of the curve is, at the smallest portion flat on the side. Hope that makes sense. Beating repeatativly works wonders, nice soild whacks not angry flailing.

 

 

On a side note many members to include myself have done this without removing the ball joints. Disconnect the swaybar and then let the wheel assembly hang with the body supported at the frame. Disconnect shock lower bolts and use a pry bar as leverage to gain room for the block.

 

I second this reply. I really wanted to leave the ball joints, etc, alone when I installed my RC 2''. I was able to only loosen the sway bar link and let the suspension hang as far as possible. Then I had a buddy use a pry bar between the strut and knuckle..it takes a bit of elbow grease, but I feel alot better since I really only had to take one bolt off (sway bar link). The major components all stayed untouched. Give it a try. Drivers side was harder on mine for some reason.

Posted
Bigger hammer always works for me!

 

I usually use a 3lb dead blow for the ball joints. Smack the knuckle right where the crown of the curve is, at the smallest portion flat on the side. Hope that makes sense. Beating repeatativly works wonders, nice soild whacks not angry flailing.

 

 

On a side note many members to include myself have done this without removing the ball joints. Disconnect the swaybar and then let the wheel assembly hang with the body supported at the frame. Disconnect shock lower bolts and use a pry bar as leverage to gain room for the block.

 

I second this reply. I really wanted to leave the ball joints, etc, alone when I installed my RC 2''. I was able to only loosen the sway bar link and let the suspension hang as far as possible. Then I had a buddy use a pry bar between the strut and knuckle..it takes a bit of elbow grease, but I feel alot better since I really only had to take one bolt off (sway bar link). The major components all stayed untouched. Give it a try. Drivers side was harder on mine for some reason.

 

 

Exactly what I did. Drivers side took about 25 min, after I learned the tricks, passenger took about 10.

Posted

Thanks guys, i'm going to try that today. Gunna have to go dig in the big shed for the big hammer. So i'll hit it on the side on the flat part. I did it this way. Worked wonders on the passenger side.

 

 

 

Posted
Thanks guys, i'm going to try that today. Gunna have to go dig in the big shed for the big hammer. So i'll hit it on the side on the flat part. I did it this way. Worked wonders on the passenger side.

 

 

 

 

Well i got it, and boy did i ever need a big hammer haha. Looks great easy install even with the few small problems.

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