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Removing engine head


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Posted

Hi all,

 

 I will need to remove the head on my 99 4.8 sierra truck.  I dont want to spend the 1,600 dealership wants on this to fix my intake valve on the 8 cy.

 On the hayes manual. it says to remove the exhaust manfold. then remove valve cover, then remove the springs and etc in the head.  then remove the Head.  Why do you HAVE to remove the internal parts of the head?  I dont understand that.  I will send the head to have the intake valve replaced and fix anything that might be wrong with that 8cl valve systesm.

 

 So short story long,  WHY do i have to remove those parts off the head before I remove the head?

 

Thanks!!

Posted

I meant removing the springs and etc.  

 I dont see why the book tells ya to remove that before removing the head, you HAVE to removing those internal parts of the head.  

 So All i do then is just remove the head, then take that to be reparied will all parts still intact?

Posted

I would immagine that you have to remove the springs after you removed the head, but you'd have to loosen the rocker arms because you have to release the tension on the pushrods so you can pull the heads up and off without damaging the pushrods.

 

-Mike

Posted

Remove the springs after you've removed the heads.  All you need to do is loosen/remove the rocker arms, pull out the pushrods CMNT recommends replacing them with a chromoly set anyway, but if you do keep them, I like to mark which cylinder and valve they came off of (not necessary but I'm anal retentive) as well as do the same to the rockers once removed.

 

Then you'll need a new set of headbolts as previously mentioned as they are "torque to yield" bolts that actually stretch when tightened.

 

They may suggest removing the springs prior to head removal in order to get at head bolts that may be partially blocked (in back), but that's just a guess.

Posted
Remove the springs after you've removed the heads.  All you need to do is loosen/remove the rocker arms, pull out the pushrods CMNT recommends replacing them with a chromoly set anyway, but if you do keep them, I like to mark which cylinder and valve they came off of (not necessary but I'm anal retentive) as well as do the same to the rockers once removed.

 

Then you'll need a new set of headbolts as previously mentioned as they are "torque to yield" bolts that actually stretch when tightened.

 

They may suggest removing the springs prior to head removal in order to get at head bolts that may be partially blocked (in back), but that's just a guess.

I will back the chromoly pushrod's all 16..and while your in there  you might as well get some fullcrum tipped roller rockers like Harland Sharp 1.6's or something.. If you do check your clearances from the top fo the piston to the valves. and plastic gauge everything.  I've always been partial to ARP fastners.

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