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Towing Capacity


craigsz71

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You do have 3.08s.......

 

I looked at the Z82 option. That only indicates "Trailer provisions"...... Not exactly sure what that means. It may only mean that you have the trailer harness plug on top of the spare tire and a brake controller cable under the dash........ again.... not sure.

 

Here is the RPO list. It would be wise to look up each option on your label.

http://aplsweb.com/Topics/TopicPix/RPO.pdf

 

 

so what now?? i know u said look up each code but is there another way to tell?? and where is the brake cable at?? on the harness plug are you talking about the one by the plate? its a 6pin i belive

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Look under the hood, in front of the radiator. If you have a transmission cooler, it will be obvious. It looks like a small radiator, about 10"x14". The factory one doesn't have the small fan like mine does. I also think that it is located closer to center of the radiator. If you don't have a trans cooler, you don't have a HD Trailer pkg. The trans cooler is easy and cheap to install.

 

Mine is not factory but it is similar.

transcooler006.jpg

You do have 3.08s.......

 

I looked at the Z82 option. That only indicates "Trailer provisions"...... Not exactly sure what that means. It may only mean that you have the trailer harness plug on top of the spare tire and a brake controller cable under the dash........ again.... not sure.

 

Here is the RPO list. It would be wise to look up each option on your label.

http://aplsweb.com/Topics/TopicPix/RPO.pdf

 

 

so what now?? i know u said look up each code but is there another way to tell?? and where is the brake cable at?? on the harness plug are you talking about the one by the plate? its a 6pin i belive

 

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Where do you come up with Z82= HD trailering? I don't find that anywhere. I also can't imagine HD trailering having 3.08 gears........ :rolleyes:

GU4 = 3.08

Z82 HD trailering

 

5000-ish pounds = 650 tongue weight, plenty left over for people in the cab and stuff in the bed. Do it!

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Looks like you do have the trailering pkg.

 

If I were you, I'd add the pusher fan, like mine has. I got mine on Amazon for about $30. The relay was about $15. If you are interested, I can tell you how to wire it.

 

That 3.08 gears still blows me away but it may have to do with the fact that you have the 6spd trans.

 

On my truck (3.23 gears and 4spd) my engine only turns about 1500RPM @65 in OD. When I have it in second, it will turn 3600RPM when pulling a steep hill @65MPH. I have to go that fast to maintain the torque to keep me going.

 

On your truck, you should be able to pull that trailer easily and pick a gear to match the speed that you want to maintain. You will probably be able to do 50-55 in second and have plenty of power in reserve (I have a lot lighter, low profile trailer and a lot less power).

 

Your issue is going to be slowing that monster on the down-side. I'm thinking that you wouldn't dare go over 25MPH in low gear. If that thing builds up momentum on a steep grade, a lower gear ratio would help hold you back better (in 2nd). That would allow you to use 2nd and have 1st in reserve.

hey wayne went out and looked and there is a trans cooler in middle of radiator but it measurres like 11x6 i can load pic if needed
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thanks wayne and sorry for getting started off on bad foot earlier in the thread.... yeah the 3.08 have to be because of the 6spd tranny you know im not sure what rpm it runs going down the road........ mine you put it in the "m" gear which im guessing is for manual you can push button to shift thru all the gears while driving down road... pretty neat i think. so will i need a sway bar hitch and how much do trailer break controler cost? and one more question lol....the pusher fan it shouldnt be that hard to wire.. what do i tap into for power?

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I would recommend the Prodigy brake controller. They are between $120 (P-2) and $140 (P-3) depending on how fancy a read out that you want.

http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90885.html

http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html

 

I wired my pusher fan with a relay. I ran a 12G wire from the battery terminal connector with a 30A inline fuse at the terminal. That wire goes to one side of the relay then out of the relay to the fan. I ran another (16G) wire that I spliced into the engine fan hot wire. That wire goes to the other side of the relay and tells the rely when to switch on to run the fan. That way, the trans cooler fan comes on when the engine fans come on but the trans cooler fan doesn't add any draw to the engine cooling fan wiring. That way you don't have to be concerned about your engine fans not getting full current or (worse yet) blowing the fuse to the engine fans.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Derale-16763-Electri...0433&sr=8-6

 

You can also get one with a built in thermostat but I wouldn't trust it:

http://www.amazon.com/Derale-16739-Farenhe...433&sr=8-10

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thanks guys you have been a big help.... were still not 100% sure getting camper (if funds allow) but wanted to get my ducks in a row first.. was thinking of fliping the trailer and makeing $$ off it. when i was looking at these very campers i was seeing them sell for around 8400 and they have 3000 on this one and said make offer... the said everything works. anything i should look for since this would be my first camper? again thanks for all the help....

 

steven i live in ohio acctually right nxt door what are you wanting to sell it for. is it new? :rolleyes: <------ seems to be your favorite emoticon lol

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Craig,

 

As mentioned before, I think the main thing you need to watch is the weight you add to the truck when towing: passengers, cargo in the bed, tongue weight of the trailer.

 

The sticker on the drivers door jamb has a Load ( Cargo ) Capacity rating for your truck. What is the capacity amount? Know that this cargo amount is for a completely empty truck.

 

What is the model of the trailer you are looking at?

 

As I have read, newer trailers do include the "options" on the sticker on the trailer, but if that weight of 5000lbs is off a website, it may be under the actual "Dry Weight". Also, any website listing tongue weight may not include having a battery & propane tanks mounted on the tongue.

 

Our tt weighs about 6300lbs ready to go, and our '10 Chevy ccsb 5.3/6spd/3.42 does fine. Just have to watch what we load in the truck as we are about maxed out on gvwr, but under gcwr and axle ratings.

 

Also check out rv.net. There is hours of reading over there in the forum! If you need any help setting up the wd hitch, just ask here, or read the sticky over on rv.net in the travel trailer forum ( I think thats where it is).

 

If you do buy a new wd hitch, check out the Reese Dual Cam ( Straight Line) system, or the Equal-I-Zer 4Way model.

 

Good luck!

Chris

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Craig,

 

Does the trailer have aluminum siding, or is it the smooth side fiberglass? Check around all the lights, and inside all storage compartments for leaks.

 

Take a ladder that will allow you to check out the roof of the trailer. Check all roof seams to look for possible leaks. Also check inside any place you can. Ceiling, walls, etc... EVERYWHERE!

 

Tires- Look for the date on the tires. Probably plan on buying new ones. I have read that tires over 5 yrs old you should replace even if they "Look Fine", sooner if cracking. Most tt tires have plenty of tread left, but are shot due to age.

 

Plan on a new battery.

 

Water system- Fill the fresh water tank some, and check for leaks. Turn on the pump, get air out of the lines, then let it sit for a while. If the pump kicks on, it is leaking.

 

Maybe take a full propane tank with you to check the water heater & stove/oven. Spray bottle with a soapy water solution to check for leaks.

 

Check the fridge on electric, and propane.

 

Crawl under the trailer and completely check it out.

 

Can't think of anything else at the moment.

 

Do you know anyone with a brake controller? The way you can possibly check to see if the brakes work at least a little. PLan on repacking the hubs and checking the brakes while at it.

 

Price seems pretty low. Hopefully if there is anything needing fixing it is fairly easy!

 

Good luck!

Chris

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SO.... you have the same truck as i right.. mine does have the hd towing package we finaly figured that out lol...... im not sure about what the sticker on trailer says since i havnt really looked at it yet but on the craigslist post the said something about 5020lbs trailer weight

 

heres the link to camper

http://columbus.craigslist.org/rvs/2573186558.html

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Is your truck a crew cab short bed ( ccsb )? I have the 3.42 gear ratio, so a little more gearing than you do.

 

IF that trailer is the Supreme M30-BH, then NADA retail is only $3500-$4200ish ( low-avg retail ), though I didn't select any options. With a dry weight of 5500lbs per NADA.

 

Plan on a set of LT tires also. That is one of the things on my to do list. I have the stock 18" tires/wheels, and they do OK, but can feel a little tire flexing.

 

A set of tow mirrors are a must also. Either the Cipa custom fit models, or the factory tow mirrors,

 

Chris

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