Equipment list for Stereo upgrade

[arctictwist]

So i have the typical problem, driver door and pillar speaker issues. Of course this happened after the warranty was up. So id like to upgrade the speakers all around. This is the equipment list i looked at. Please tell me if anythings wrong.

 

JL audio C2650 Components for the front

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-C2-650-Component-System-2-way/dp/B0036D1DQI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2ND22MDZ99T85&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

JL audio C2650x coaxial for rears

 

http://www.amazon.com/JL-AUDIO-COAXIAL-SPEAKERS-C2650X/dp/B002PJ7FVG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2I05W45PC53NV&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

for speaker fitment

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SAGMHR634B-2006-Up-Chevrolet-Speaker/dp/B0015A8Q7S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I39XMHWLHXKG8V&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

for wire connections

 

http://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-4568-Speaker-Harness-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEUZ8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3PMPB7CQNJ2XA&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

MTX BossRT604 for an amp (if you can suggest something better in similiar range im open, i really lost touch with the audio world so i dont know whats out there)

 

http://www.amazon.com/RT604-4-Channel-360-Watt-Amplifier-Class/dp/B0037LIZ7O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_T1?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2AY6H0CTGDONX&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

I was told i needed this PAC adapter to add the amp to the stock radio

 

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Premium-Amplifier-replacement-Interface/dp/B000VW8AL8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I9949FI2DMMOY&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z Thanks guys!

 

 

and yes there will be a thread documenting this upgrade!

[jdubya]

I would go with a JL amp.

[arctictwist]

Im looking at them and these speakers are rated for 60w RMS but the best it looks like i can do is 70w from there amps.

 

I also noticed they have high level inputs. Would that be beneficial to use and how would i do it?

[Cloudsplitter]

You don't need the

Metra 72-4568 Speaker Harness for Select GM Vehicles

 

 

When you are using an amp with your new speakers they will wire directly to the amp. Those adapters are only for when you are putting in new speakers but connecting them to the factory speaker wires. With an aftermarket amplifier you will run new (hopefully higher quality) speaker wire from the amp to the new speakers.

You are right on with PAC audio adapter, I am using the same unit. Thanks for showing the

Scosche SAGMHR634B 2006-Up Chevrolet HHR/Impala Speaker Adapter

 

I didn't know about these!

 

I would look for a better Amp.... I've never been much of an MTX fan. You can do good research on Crutchfield, but the prices are max MSRP.... then go to eBay and look for good deals.

[arctictwist]

I wasnt planing on running new wires. I was going to utilize the factory ones as they are already in place. Is there really a big difference in factory wires versus after market that I will notice? Im not going for SQ competitions or anything.

 

Yea I am looking at JLs now. However its odd to me that JL amps dont match up RMS wise to JL speakers.... seems kind of odd on their part.

[Anthonyb]

I just did a setup very similar to what you are doing. I was not happy with the lows so I also added a 6" Bazooka tube. I am running 100watt Punches in the front and 90watt Kickers in the rear off of a Pioneer 250 watt amp. The bazooka tube fit nicely under my rear seat an has its own built in amp so all I needed was a 2in1 RCA adapter in front of the amp and to piggyback off of the power supply to the amp. The 6" tube will not rattle the neighbors car, but rounds out the sound very nicely and yoou can feel it bump. I used the Scosche adapters and they worked great, I did have to re-drill the top screw hole to up to make it more secure but that was very simple. Here is the tube I have http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B0009QTA4W . I actually got mine on Craigslist for $60. This is how it fits under the back seat.

[5829BMG]

Those JL speakers are very good speakers and can handle way more than theyre rated. They will sound best with a sub or two though they just dont get down that low.

[arctictwist]

I am going to try without the sub right now and see how I like it, but I will keep it in mind, thank you. Im going to run my power lines larger to accomodate the upgrade later should i add a sub.

 

Ok so going to run new speaker wires, I read about how the chimes will be crazy loud with the PAC and what i should do is run the JL cleansweep CL441-dsp and then use the old driver side speaker line to run one small speaker for chimes. THe JL unit is expensive, is this the only way around the chimes being crazy loud?

[5829BMG]

Chimes and turn signals come on the left front channel. If you boost that channel you boost the chimes using a cleansweep or pac. The JL makes it easier to control it with the knob, the pac is kinda of a set it and forget it box.

[arctictwist]

Heres another option ive been looking at today with using the high level inputs. The JL amp lets you feed with just two channels. So i could feed with the rear and use that for all four speakers. Then use the front left channel for a small speaker for chimes right off the stock feed. Now thats not amplified, no need for a pac or cleansweep. What do we think? On other threads they seem very pro-high level inputs.

[Anthonyb]

Heres another option ive been looking at today with using the high level inputs. The JL amp lets you feed with just two channels. So i could feed with the rear and use that for all four speakers. Then use the front left channel for a small speaker for chimes right off the stock feed. Now thats not amplified, no need for a pac or cleansweep. What do we think? On other threads they seem very pro-high level inputs.

 

My amp is a 2 channel and I have all 4 speakers running from the rear channel of the factory HU. I used the front channel to drive my sub so I have a very quiet door chime. The only drawback is I have no fade control now, so I use the fade to control my sub. I cannot hear the door chime. If you run 4 speakers from a 2 channel amp, make sure your speakers are 4 ohm and the amp can handle 2 ohm. This will actually double the wattage of your amp so make sure it can handle the 2 ohm load.

[arctictwist]

Im not going to bridge the amp, it has an option to feed all four channels off of 2 high level input channels. So the rear left and right would feed all four channels off the amp. I was thinking about the fade control, that does suck.

[Anthonyb]

This has nothing to do with bridging. When you run 4 x 4ohm speakers, that creates a 2 ohm draw on the amp. This in turn will double the amounts of watts the amp is putting out. There is nothing wrong with this setup other than you can blow your speakers if your not aware of this. I do not miss my fade control, it sounds really good.

[arctictwist]

There are going to be two inputs but four outputs on four channels. there is a switch on the amp that allows you to send the signal from one pair of inputs to all four outputs. im not using a 2 channel amp. Sorry i should have mentioned that, thats why i thought you thought i was bridging. im going with the JL audio JX360/4. But glad to see you dont miss the fade. I will probably go ahead with this plan.