Jump to content

Equipment list for Stereo upgrade

arctictwist

By arctictwist
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

Posted
Posted

So i have the typical problem, driver door and pillar speaker issues. Of course this happened after the warranty was up. So id like to upgrade the speakers all around. This is the equipment list i looked at. Please tell me if anythings wrong.

 

JL audio C2650 Components for the front

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-C2-650-Component-System-2-way/dp/B0036D1DQI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2ND22MDZ99T85&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

JL audio C2650x coaxial for rears

 

http://www.amazon.com/JL-AUDIO-COAXIAL-SPEAKERS-C2650X/dp/B002PJ7FVG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2I05W45PC53NV&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

for speaker fitment

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SAGMHR634B-2006-Up-Chevrolet-Speaker/dp/B0015A8Q7S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I39XMHWLHXKG8V&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

for wire connections

 

http://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-4568-Speaker-Harness-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEUZ8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3PMPB7CQNJ2XA&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

MTX BossRT604 for an amp (if you can suggest something better in similiar range im open, i really lost touch with the audio world so i dont know whats out there)

 

http://www.amazon.com/RT604-4-Channel-360-Watt-Amplifier-Class/dp/B0037LIZ7O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_T1?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2AY6H0CTGDONX&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z

 

I was told i needed this PAC adapter to add the amp to the stock radio

 

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Premium-Amplifier-replacement-Interface/dp/B000VW8AL8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I9949FI2DMMOY&colid=3FT0Q7Z8B461Z Thanks guys!

 

 

and yes there will be a thread documenting this upgrade!

arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im looking at them and these speakers are rated for 60w RMS but the best it looks like i can do is 70w from there amps.

 

I also noticed they have high level inputs. Would that be beneficial to use and how would i do it?

Cloudsplitter Enthusiast

Cloudsplitter

Posted
Posted

You don't need the

Metra 72-4568 Speaker Harness for Select GM Vehicles

 

 

When you are using an amp with your new speakers they will wire directly to the amp. Those adapters are only for when you are putting in new speakers but connecting them to the factory speaker wires. With an aftermarket amplifier you will run new (hopefully higher quality) speaker wire from the amp to the new speakers.

You are right on with PAC audio adapter, I am using the same unit. Thanks for showing the

Scosche SAGMHR634B 2006-Up Chevrolet HHR/Impala Speaker Adapter

 

I didn't know about these!

 

I would look for a better Amp.... I've never been much of an MTX fan. You can do good research on Crutchfield, but the prices are max MSRP.... then go to eBay and look for good deals.

arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wasnt planing on running new wires. I was going to utilize the factory ones as they are already in place. Is there really a big difference in factory wires versus after market that I will notice? Im not going for SQ competitions or anything.

 

Yea I am looking at JLs now. However its odd to me that JL amps dont match up RMS wise to JL speakers.... seems kind of odd on their part.

Anthonyb Enthusiast

Anthonyb

Posted
Posted

I just did a setup very similar to what you are doing. I was not happy with the lows so I also added a 6" Bazooka tube. I am running 100watt Punches in the front and 90watt Kickers in the rear off of a Pioneer 250 watt amp. The bazooka tube fit nicely under my rear seat an has its own built in amp so all I needed was a 2in1 RCA adapter in front of the amp and to piggyback off of the power supply to the amp. The 6" tube will not rattle the neighbors car, but rounds out the sound very nicely and yoou can feel it bump. I used the Scosche adapters and they worked great, I did have to re-drill the top screw hole to up to make it more secure but that was very simple. Here is the tube I have http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B0009QTA4W . I actually got mine on Craigslist for $60. This is how it fits under the back seat.

post-74045-0-18042500-1321403214_thumb.jpg

post-74045-0-18042500-1321403214_thumb.jpg

post-74045-0-18042500-1321403214_thumb.jpg

post-74045-0-18042500-1321403214_thumb.jpg

5829BMG Enthusiast

5829BMG

Posted
Posted

Those JL speakers are very good speakers and can handle way more than theyre rated. They will sound best with a sub or two though they just dont get down that low.

arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am going to try without the sub right now and see how I like it, but I will keep it in mind, thank you. Im going to run my power lines larger to accomodate the upgrade later should i add a sub.

 

Ok so going to run new speaker wires, I read about how the chimes will be crazy loud with the PAC and what i should do is run the JL cleansweep CL441-dsp and then use the old driver side speaker line to run one small speaker for chimes. THe JL unit is expensive, is this the only way around the chimes being crazy loud?

5829BMG Enthusiast

5829BMG

Posted
Posted

Chimes and turn signals come on the left front channel. If you boost that channel you boost the chimes using a cleansweep or pac. The JL makes it easier to control it with the knob, the pac is kinda of a set it and forget it box.

arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Heres another option ive been looking at today with using the high level inputs. The JL amp lets you feed with just two channels. So i could feed with the rear and use that for all four speakers. Then use the front left channel for a small speaker for chimes right off the stock feed. Now thats not amplified, no need for a pac or cleansweep. What do we think? On other threads they seem very pro-high level inputs.

Anthonyb Enthusiast

Anthonyb

Posted
Posted

Heres another option ive been looking at today with using the high level inputs. The JL amp lets you feed with just two channels. So i could feed with the rear and use that for all four speakers. Then use the front left channel for a small speaker for chimes right off the stock feed. Now thats not amplified, no need for a pac or cleansweep. What do we think? On other threads they seem very pro-high level inputs.

 

My amp is a 2 channel and I have all 4 speakers running from the rear channel of the factory HU. I used the front channel to drive my sub so I have a very quiet door chime. The only drawback is I have no fade control now, so I use the fade to control my sub. I cannot hear the door chime. If you run 4 speakers from a 2 channel amp, make sure your speakers are 4 ohm and the amp can handle 2 ohm. This will actually double the wattage of your amp so make sure it can handle the 2 ohm load.
arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im not going to bridge the amp, it has an option to feed all four channels off of 2 high level input channels. So the rear left and right would feed all four channels off the amp. I was thinking about the fade control, that does suck.

Anthonyb Enthusiast

Anthonyb

Posted
Posted

This has nothing to do with bridging. When you run 4 x 4ohm speakers, that creates a 2 ohm draw on the amp. This in turn will double the amounts of watts the amp is putting out. There is nothing wrong with this setup other than you can blow your speakers if your not aware of this. I do not miss my fade control, it sounds really good.

arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There are going to be two inputs but four outputs on four channels. there is a switch on the amp that allows you to send the signal from one pair of inputs to all four outputs. im not using a 2 channel amp. Sorry i should have mentioned that, thats why i thought you thought i was bridging. im going with the JL audio JX360/4. But glad to see you dont miss the fade. I will probably go ahead with this plan.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...