Soem-t Install

parshal · December 30, 2011

Im planning on installing a soem-t only to get the remote power-on wire. I plan on tapping the rear speakers directly to my JL amp rather than using the rca plugs from the PAC unit. I was going to run the amp off an accessory wire but I do drive a lot with the radio off so I don't want the amp always on.

For those that have used the PAC units, did you run the yellow 12v wire to a constant power source or can you run it to a switched source? I'd rather not have the unit always on behind my dash I I can help it.

Thoughts? Help?

wottenad · December 31, 2011

Im planning on installing a soem-t only to get the remote power-on wire. I plan on tapping the rear speakers directly to my JL amp rather than using the rca plugs from the PAC unit. I was going to run the amp off an accessory wire but I do drive a lot with the radio off so I don't want the amp always on.

For those that have used the PAC units, did you run the yellow 12v wire to a constant power source or can you run it to a switched source? I'd rather not have the unit always on behind my dash I I can help it.

Thoughts? Help?

Since there is technically no "switched" power available to the radio, the PAC piece grabs its 12v from the constant source at the deck. This is the 12v source that gets switched to the amp remote. It uses signal sensing to turn on the amp remote, so even if you didn't use the outputs to your amp, you should still hook up the inputs to your deck's speaker outputs so it can sense when to turn on the amp.

It doesn't draw any current or adversely affect anything when the key is off.

Walt

parshal · December 31, 2011

Which wire are you tapping at the deck for constant power? I am considering running a wire direct to my auxiliary battery for the power to the PAC unit so there is no parasitic draw on my starting battery.

wottenad · December 31, 2011

Which wire are you tapping at the deck for constant power? I am considering running a wire direct to my auxiliary battery for the power to the PAC unit so there is no parasitic draw on my starting battery.

At the deck, you need to tap the yellow wire in the PAC adaptor to the Red/White in connector X1 (this is the first connector on the right as you're looking down on the back of the factory deck). Black in the same factory connector is ground.

This piece draws such minimal current that the ONLY way you could possibly have any problems is if the piece fails and keeps your amp on. If it works correctly, you'll never know it's there, so don't worry about running power anywhere else.

parshal · December 31, 2011

Thank you!

parshal · January 7, 2012

I ended up pulling it out after trying out the stereo. It just didn't sound quite right so I soldered the RCAs directly to the speaker wires and it sounds so much better. I can't turn the input sensitivity low enough on the amp though when I run test tones.

parshal · January 9, 2012

I spoke with JL today and they suggested connecting an ipod directly to the amp to see if I was able to turn the input sensitivity down lower. I did that and was able to. They were perplexed as to why my stock stereo was putting out that much power and suggested that I should use an LOC. I'm going to try the sni-35 since it doesn't require any power and I've already run the remote turn on wire to RAP.