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If anyone needed proof about the BIG 3

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I decided to do a little test to see if this was really worth it..... I did 2 of the big 3, leaving out the negative to chassis upgrade. I tested power at the cable ends before they went into the amp... 12.5 V. Then i added the negative to chassis cable. 14.8 V. This is without the subs hitting, the engine on, and I have a yellow top battery. May add a second when i see what it does with 1200w hitting hard.

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Ok so I figured I'd take better daylight pics and put them here.


In this first pic you see the top connections to the battery. On the positive terminal I have a JL 3x0 or 4 gauge. Right now one spot is free, one loops around towards you and to the fuse. Then continues to the amp in the back of the truck. The other goes to the alternator. The negative terminal is a kicker 2x 0 or 4 awg. Only one spot is used at the moment. You can see it goes right up to the chassis there. The two empties are to parallel another battery should I need it. In which case I will also use two double set screw set ups and use the free ones for a permanent jumper cable set up.




In this next pic you can see the side terminals, both the same dbl kicker I used on top. I hacked off the factory ends and set them in these.




The next one shows the attachment to the alternator from battery positive on the right with the factory line. On the left and lower is where I put the engine side of the engine to chassis.




Lastly is the chassis side of the engine to chassis. I simply connected it with the existing ground. Also you can see the positive to the amps shooting down, it goes through the firewall below the brake booster.







Also this is all 0awg. When the amp line gets to the back it splits to 2 x 4 awg.

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