FS: 3" Rear Seat Lift

[Texas_Edition]

I'm selling my 3" T6-6066 Aluminum square tubing. I have this installed in my truck and will be taking them out on Monday. They have the predrilled holes. I chose T6-6066 aluminum blocks because of how strong it is. They are .25" thick. I looked up the specs on T6-6066 aluminum and its very strong and if I was going to raise my seats, safety was my #1 priority, especially over price. I pieced this together myself. Other members have duplicated it as I have shared this info below with people on GM membership message boards.

 

I recommend using strong washers here on ever block for every bolt. I also recommend using the industrial strength bolts and nuts from Lowe's. Much stronger than what came from the factory. If you have problems trying to find the bolts, then ask an employee where the Grade 8 Hex bolts are. I recommend not using a Grade 2 or 5 bolt and nut.

 

I suggest going to Lowes and getting 7/16" @ 1 1/4" long Grade 8 HEX Bolts seen in the very last picture. I believe I used 1" bolts and when fastened down, no threads were showing. I think 1 1/4" bolts will be too long to fit your open ended wrench inside.

 

Some of these sets of pictures are from when I was rewiring the first time back earlier this year and then the last set of pictures are recent of me rewiring everything again. So please excuse the mess.

 

Another set of pictures are pics of the blocks installed. Middle pictures are of them taken out of the truck as I just did on Saturday. Last pictures are from when I installed them in February of this year

 

For the Front and rear sides

 

Quanity: 4

6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE

2" x 3" x 0.25" 6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE

3.000000 Inches (L)

 

For the middle larger brackets

 

Quanity: 2

6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE

2" x 3" x 0.25" 6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE

6.000000 Inches (L)

 

 

Price: $120+shipping. I have the expensive Grade 8 Nuts, 12 washers and Bolts that cost me over $35. I'll throw them in there for an extra $20.I had to go to Lowes 3 times to get the right length since the stud bolt sticking out from the floor didn't allow me to slide the nut in between the stud and the new bolt and thread it. So let me know if you want the nuts and bolts for an extra $20

 

[Texas_Edition]

Please excuse the wire mess. These pictures were taken while I was in the process of removing all of my wiring

 

 

 

 

 

Great place to run your wires through

 

Drivers rear. Where I removed my 400watt power inverter from my wood amp rack

 

 

 

Middle 2 brackets. Again, excuse the mess

 

Same middle 2 brackets

 

Front middle bracket

 

 

 

 

Please believe me when I say this. No, my wires were not run like this. I had them in a wire loom with zip ties

[Texas_Edition]

Very first pictures I took back when I installed the blocks I fabricated back in February of this year.

 

[Texas_Edition]

Here are the nuts and hex bolts to get. The picture of the bolt is a generic picture. Your hex bolts will be shorter and fully threaded, however, they are this color.

 

 

Bolts:

1" bolts

 

 

 

 

http://www.lowes.com...oductId=3012217

 

 

1 1/4" bolts if you wish.

http://www.lowes.com...oductId=3024724

 

 

Nuts:

 

 

http://www.lowes.com...oductId=3012191

 

 

 

 

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

STRENGTH

 

Everything is aircraft grade material.

 

I suggest going to Lowes and getting 7/16" x 1" long Grade 8 HEX bolts seen in the very last pictures. Going with Grade 8 Hex Bolts and Nuts gives you strength of 120,000 PSI. That strong enough for ya? lol Means its stronger than what came from the factory which is Grade 2. Meaning if you were into an accident, your factory seats are more at risk to break than with this kit. Its more than twice the strength.

 

Plus the T6-6061 .25" aluminum

 

From Wikipedia:

T6-6061 aluminum is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages, more commonly in homebuilt aircraft than commercial or military aircraft.[6] 2024 alloy is somewhat stronger, but 6061 is more easily worked and remains resistant to corrosion even when the surface is abraded, which is not the case for 2024, which is usually used with a thin Alclad coating for corrosion resistance.[7]

 

.25" Thickness - Ultimate Bearing Strength: 607 MPa (88000 psi)

 

 

So you can see how much research I did on safety before I made my purchase of materials

 

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________________________

 

 

 

 

Pictures of the Grade 8 Nuts and HEX Bolts I have. On the head, it has 6 marks to show you that its a Grade 8 bolt. Dont skimp out on your nuts and bolts. These bolts, nuts and washers are cheap. Spend the extra 50 cents or however much and get the strong nuts and bolts. SAFETY FIRST. Same for your washers too. Get some strong washers.

 

 

Grade 2

 

• 
   
   
  A grade 2 bolt has no markings on the head of the bolt and is made of low or medium carbon steel. In 1/4" to 3/4" bolts the proof load -- the pressure the bolt can withstand -- is 55,000 psi (pounds per square inch), while in 3/4" to 1-1/2" bolts the proof load is 33,000 psi.
  

 

Grade 5

 

• 
   
   
  Grade 5 bolts are marked with three radial lines on the head of the bolt. The bolt is made of medium carbon steel that is quenched and tempered. In 1/4" to 1" bolts the proof load is 85,000 psi. In 1" to 1-1/2" bolts the proof load is 74,000 psi.
  

 

Grade 8

 

• 
   
   
  Grade 8 bolts are marked with six radial lines on the bolt head. It is made of medium carbon alloy steel that is quenched and tempered. In 1/4" to 1-1/2" bolts the proof load is 120,000 psi.
  

 

 

Read more: What Are the Different Grades of Bolts? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/...l#ixzz206rSdmsq

 

 

[Texas_Edition]

Instructions:

 

Very simple really. NO CUTTING OR MODIFICATION REQUIRED WHAT SO EVER. I mounted the blocks first, then the 40 section of the 40/60 seat, then the 60 section of the seat. To me it seems easier than bolting the blocks to the seat mounts first, then dropping the blocks and seat on the studs. By mounting the blocks first, you are able to slide a socket on the nut that goes to the stud, then slide an extension through the top hole and begin to tighten.

 

 

I recommend using strong washers here on ever block for every bolt. I also recommend using the industrial strength bolts and nuts from Lowe's. Much stronger than what came from the factory. If you have problems trying to find the bolts, then ask an employee where the Grade 8 and higher bolts are. I recommend not using a Grade 2 or 5 bolt and nut.

 

 

I suggest going to Lowes and getting 7/16" x 1" long Grade 8 HEX bolts seen in the very last pictures.

 

 

 

Again, please excuse my mess of wires.

Rear Block

 

 

Front Block with rear block in the back

 

 

Front passenger block. I used washers. I drilled a +2 size hole so that I could align the seats if necessary. I recommend using washers here on ever block for every bolt.

[Texas_Edition]

To The Top

[yukon25008.1]

ext cab or crew cab??

Was the reason for lifting the seat for stereo stuff

[Texas_Edition]

ext cab or crew cab??

Was the reason for lifting the seat for stereo stuff

 

 

Crew Cab.

 

I did it to fit a larger subwoofer box. I was able to get a 3 cu ft net box tuned to 31hz with two ports under the seats for my 4 SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL subs.

It also is a good mod if you need extra room underneath the seats to store stuff. Its alot more comfortable for your rear passengers as it gives more leg room. Imagine raising and lowing a computer chair. Lowered, your legs are stretched out, raised, your legs are more vertical and allows for more leg room. I've had some rear passengers sit back there, tallest guy was 6'1 and he liked it as it was more comfortable than when my seats were at stock position. Anyone above 6'3 might have issues sitting back there with head room though.

[Texas_Edition]

Still have this for sale

[Texas_Edition]

Someone has to be wanting to raise their rear seats for a bigger subwoofer box

[jtupper]

Does this also allow the backs of the seat to fold forward when the bottoms are lifted?

[Texas_Edition]

Yes, It does.

 

I actually have two different set of fabricated seat lift blocks. The first one is shown above and my second one, was one I was working on to allow me to mount 4 amplifiers to the back wall. With the one above, I was only able to mount 2-3 of my amplifiers. This one raises the seat 3" aswell, but also moves the seat forward about 3". It also allows for my room between the amplifiers and the back seat for cooling purposes. There are a few "extra" bolt holes that were made by accident, but it's no big deal.

 

I am selling my brand new Mechman G Series 270 amp High Output Alternator.

 

$420 shipped

 

I no longer have the truck, so that is why I am selling.

 

I also selling my quad 8" ported subwoofer box that I fabricated this seat lift for. I built it for my FOUR Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL version 8" Subwoofers. It is a fiberglassed/MDF box at 3 cuft NET tuned to 31Hz. I am selling the box with the seat lift at no additional charge. I used alot of matt and resin to make this box. Cost me over $350 to make this box. This was my very first attempt at making a fiberglassed box, so it has more fiberglass than probably needed, but that just means it's extra strong! lol

 

$300 + shipping. I often go to Dallas, however I live in northwestern Oklahoma, so there are some options for delivery.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Texas_Edition]

FYI, the pricing of $100 shipped for the seat lift is if you either buy the box of the alternator.

 

My first post got cut off. I had about 4 other paragraphs to write, hence why I had to make additional post for pictures and what I typed.

 

If the alternator or the box isn't being purchased, Then, it's $120 + Actual Shipping.

 

I'm reducing the price on the brand new Mechman G Series 270a Alternator to $400 + Actual Shipping