Jump to content

Truck Dying Help


Recommended Posts

Posted

This started a little while ago. The issue starts when I'm going down the hwy at about 65-70 and about 2000 rpm. When I punch it the truck starts to bog down, like it's not getting enough fuel. Eventually it gets worse to the point the truck dies. Sometimes the truck will start but when I press on the gas it bogs down again and I cant even get to 3000 rpm, then it dies again. After it dies I've always been able to get it started again after 10 min or so of trying. Then the truck runs fine for a while. Today it did it 4 times and I barely got home. Could this be the fuel pump failing?

 

I have a custom tune from Black Bear Perf. and after loading their tune the truck ran great. I sent them a data file after loading their tune and Justin told me the truck was running lean at high RMP, so on his suggestion I replaced the fuel filter. If that didn't fix the issue, he believes the fuel pump isn;t putting out enough pressure at the higher rmps and that it might need to be replaced. Based on that information, I'm thinking the fuel pump is crapping out on me. When BBP told me the truck was running lean at high rmp, I could not tell there was anything wrong with the truck, meaning it drove great. There were no symptoms whatsoever, at any speed.

 

Here's my other question to you guys. A couple of months back my AutoCal was popping O2 sensor errors, so I replaced all 4 of them. Shortly after doing that the AutoCal was giving me a Catalytic Converted code, which I just cleared. I came across a couple of posts stating that a Catalytic Converter can be clogged and cause these bog down issues, is that correct? Can a Cat. Converter do that??

 

Small update,

As I barely made it home today, the truck was dying in my driveway. It would barely rev up over 3500 to 4000 rpm. Two hours later the truck started up just fine with no issues at all. I even revved up the engine with no issues at all. COuld the issue be temperature related. Maybe this is the reason the truck starts up again after 10 minutes of trying to start the truck on the side of the road.

 

 

Thanks

R

Posted

Check fuel pressure, Should be around 60 psi. The other thing you can check is backpressure, if you have a guage. Sounds to me like you are barking up the right tree.

Posted

I had the cat issue in a Saturn. Biscuit was burned down and would turn sideways and block exhaust at the back of the cat. Your symptoms sound similar but I didn't have any temperature related issues. Good luck.

Posted

One of the cats on my truck broke and it would bog down some, but not as bad as you're describing. Have the cat checked

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

Posted

+1 on the fuel pressure check. Unfortunately you may be intermittent on the pressures and it may be ok at the time of checking. I had some similar things going on with my truck a year or so back. Fuel pump was the problem.

Posted

Thank you for the above.

 

After they truck dying in my driveway last night and not moving it, I just got in it and it drove great. I punched from a dead stop and rpms went up to almost 5500 before changing to 2nd gear and then to almost 4500 before changing to 3rd gear. So whatever the issue i think temperature is involved.

 

Someone is telling me that its almost for sure the Fuel Pump. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow regardless.

 

R.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 604 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...