Jump to content

14 Sierra with AT and Z71 tire help


Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking at doing a RC 2.5" level and getting tires. I would like to maintain some rake so should i get a 3" block for the rear? Does that require longer shocks then?

 

Can I get a 295/55 trail grappler to fit with no rub? I am keeping stock wheels because I really like em.

 

Also the boat might sag the back end a bit and that looks extremely stupid is anyone running airbags yet?

 

Thanks for any help in advance for this new member.

 

I searched this board for two days and it answered some questions but not all. Pic of truck and boat is below.

 

 

 

 

post-131103-0-43399900-1401817274_thumb.jpg

post-131103-0-43399900-1401817274_thumb.jpg

post-131103-0-43399900-1401817274_thumb.jpg

post-131103-0-43399900-1401817274_thumb.jpg

Posted

i'd suggest 3" blocks with a 2.5" level. It will have a little less than factory rake as i did the 2.25' level and 3" blocks on my 07 and pretty much have factory rake. Not sure on shocks, but i got shock extensions just incase when i did mine as i didnt want to put new shocks on at the time.

Posted

Thats the kit I have. Check out my albums

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Posted

Check out the level kit thread fondupot posted.

 

And 2.25" blocks with a 2.5" front level will leave ya with about the same rake you have stock. The RC F&R kit should get ya what you're looking for. A 3" block would be too much rake IMO

 

Check this thread for tire info

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/161228-post-your-2014-wheeltire-set-up/

Posted

Lots of info here man. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/

 

welcome to the forums.

 

This was the thread I searched for a couple days and I would read a guy with 305/55 tires with 0 rubbing, then see another post of a 295/55 that rubbed. So I just started this thread to remove some of my confusion.

 

Right now I am leaning 2.5" RC kit with a 3" block and extensions if RC sells them. I would then put on some 275/65 Bridgestone At Revos because i loved them on my avalanche prior and they are a great performing tire about 5-600 less than nitto, toyo, or duratrac.

Posted

I have the same set up and do a fair amount of towing. I did add the 3" blocks in the rear. I also took the airbags if my F150 just have not put them on. In addition I went ahead and replaced my shocks w the pro comp 9000 series, the struts are on back order. I'm also running 285/65/20 until my new shoes come in. The shocks made a huge difference and it didn't seem to top out over bumps. Love them

 

I will take a pic in a bit and post

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

Appreciate everyone sharing on here and helping me make a decision.

 

I have the 2.5" RC Level on the way and for the time being just doing the 2" block. If I don't like it I will get the 3" and some new shocks for the rear.

 

Going with 275/65R20 goodyear duratracs mostly because they were a bit cheaper than nitto and toyo and people seem to really like them.

Posted

I have the 2.5" installed with the 2" block. I really like the look right now. I wonder what kind of sag i'll get towing my boat. Might have to get some air bags to keep that from happening.

 

Here is a cell phone pic in the rain.

 

IMAG01561_zpsf35deb98.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have the 2.5" installed with the 2" block. I really like the look right now. I wonder what kind of sag i'll get towing my boat. Might have to get some air bags to keep that from happening.

 

Here is a cell phone pic in the rain.

 

IMAG01561_zpsf35deb98.jpg

One of the best looking AT's I've seen. I guess I know what I am going with now.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 279 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...