Jump to content

All exterior lighting malfunctioning...ACTING WEIRD.


Grumpy Tooch

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, there might be more than one issue her but i'll try explain them best i can.

 

I have, before doing anything, replaced all turn signals and driving lights with LED. I just recently tinted the light housings so I had to pull everything. When I put it back together it was all working fine except the driving lights. Had some problems finding them so left them out for while and all was still working fine with them out. I got new ones today from Autozone (pilot LED like the turns) and plugged them in..not working. Checked for power and no power with test light or the OEM's i got for spare. But all other working fine still. Thats one thing...

 

The other which is BOGGLING MY MIND...I had got from ebay 56 LED lights for all tail lights, they are 3157. Originally I had LED red for brake, LED white for reverse, and standard for turn just because I never got around to it. Again, turn signals, brake, reverse, hazard worked fine. I changed all 6 bulbs with new ones. Now when I put either of the turn signals on, the correct turn signal is on, along with ALL other lights...ALL lights on ALL 4 corners blink with the turn signal including the rear bed light on top of the cab.... I took out the brake bulbs and put in the others I had in, and the bed light didnt go on again (which was good), but same thing all around ALL blinkers flashed. So I removed all the new light bulbs in tail lights and put it all back the way it was and...STILL DOING IT?!?!?!?!

 

PLEASE HELP ME, I USUALLY HAVE NO PROBLEM FIGURING THINGS OUT BUT I DONT EVEN KNOW WHAT TO DO SINCE I ALREADY PUT IT ALL BACK TO THE WAY IT WAS. NOW I CANT EVEN DRIVE THE TRUCK THIS WAS AND I HAVE WORK ON MONDAY...

 

THANKS IN ADVANCE

Posted

As hard to believe as it is, you have one of three things wrong.

 

1. Bad light bulb or wrong type bulb in socket. (ie 1157 bulb in 1156 socket. I know the bulbs are indexed differently, but, it can be done)

2. Bad socket causing feedback

3. Bad or broken ground.

 

LEDs are not like incandescent bulbs, they are polarized(require correct polarity to operate), and can cause issues if not powered correctly.

 

Did you get bulbs that required something to make them flash? Some LED bulbs will not draw enough amperage for the flasher to work(assuming these trucks still use flasher cans).

 

What ever the issue is, need only look at the work you did, and the parts you replaced. When trying to fix it, only make one change at a time, if you do more than that, and it still does not work, you have no way of knowing if one of the fixes actually broke it again, or if all the fixes failed to correct it.

 

Work on one issue at a time as well. Take the easiest one to correct, and in this case it will be all the lights flashing when you signal right or left. To diagnose, remove one bulb at a time from the signals you are testing, for example, turn right signal on, then remove rf signal bulb, are all still flashing? If they are, look inside that socket to see of any of the terminals are bent or damaged. If they look good, can you disconnect that socket from the wiring harness? If you can, remove the socket. If that fixes it, that socket is damaged. If it still does not work, put that back together, and move to the other right signal and repeat what you did on the front signal.

Repeat the procedure for the left side if you did not find the issue on the right side. Also, verify that the ground wires are good on these sockets, and maybe even the actual signal housing.

Posted

this is all well and good but i believe you did not understand me...i already put it all back to the way it was before it was acting weird. So it should be working fine. But i guess it could me bad socket all of a sudden, or ground... but again, there are no changes from when it was working fine

Posted

If there are no changes and it is not working fine, then you have overlooked a change and have not undone it.

 

I understood what you wrote. I also know that shit doesn't just happen because it is Saturday. There will not be a quick answer from anyone on an internet forum given the situation you have described. In my experience, anytime a signal makes all the lights flash is either a bad bulb, a bad socket, a bad signal switch, a bad ground on socket/lens/housing, pinched wiring harness, or something as simply as a wrong number bulb being used (1156 where an 1157 should be).

 

You are free to not bother trying what I suggested, and if you do, let me know so I can stop watching this thread please.

Posted

Thank you Doug, maybe when I had it all apart something did happen to the wiring to the sockets. I'm just glad someone actually has seen this before....lol I know for fact all the right bulbs are in, so it has to be something with the wiring. Will be working on this 1st thing in the am.

Posted

Nothing wrong with wiring, sockets, or bulbs...

 

Another weird thing is when I hooked up the trailer I noticed everything worked fine. Dropped off the trailer, they went back to flashing all for while...then later in the day all worked as it should. LOL I dont know, ..gonna leave it for now before I waste $$ on it.

Posted

If you have the original stuff back in, then you have one that will be very difficult to fix remotely, but, if you went back to LEDs again, then you may have found the issue. By adding the trailer back in, you have increased current flow, and have likely resolved some issue with the LEDs. Did you use high quality LED bulbs? Did they come with some extra boards to resolve current/voltage issues?

 

From what you have posted, this should not be happening, obviously, why else would you have posted in the first place. But, I think you have left something out, something you either did not notice, or did not think mattered. Could be as simple as actual parts being used. Maybe incompatible with the wiring harness or system. The worst part about this issue is that the solution is so simple you will feel like an idiot once it appears.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...