Changed Axle Seals - Noise when switching 2wd-4wd

[michaelandmeganc]

I changed the axle seals in both sides today. Didn't take long about three hours, but here's the catch. Everything went smoothly, until I got to the passenger side, which was a royal pain in the butt as promised. Went to put the axle shaft back into the differential and I realized I was going to have clearence issues. I bunggeed the CV, tried moving it multiple ways, but it seemed to always be in the way. Finailly I rough handed it and got it to fit up in there. Bolted everything back and put it back together, added oil, and for the test. Starts, 2wd / 4wd activates, no leaking from the new factory seals, but when I switch from 4wd to 2wd or vice versa it makes some kind of noise. It almost sounds like an electronic noise either coming from the encoder motor or right where it bolts into the differential one. Any ideas? I tried to put it back as it came out and it almost seems like something might have came out of place when pushing the axle into the transfer case? The noise I would describe as like an ordinary "electronic noise." Kind of hard to describe. It sounds like the electronic motor shifting loud. No odd feel in the floor board, just a loud "'electronic shift" type noise.

[gmtech4]

Did you take the r/f axle tube off to do this ?

 

Did you see the thrust washer on the end of the inner axle shaft ?

 

2 people are needed to install the axle tube , pry the right side of diff down , put tube in place , tighten 2 then let go ,, slide tube on outer studs

[michaelandmeganc]

Had to take the r/f axle tube off front what I could tell. The driver side was rather easy, popped right out with a little pennitration oil, hammer, and a very light pry on it. Popped right in and locked with no issues. The passenger side, I had to pull the whole axle tube going to the differential off. Knocked the shaft out of the tube, replaced the seal, cleaned everything obviously. On top there were two washers, one has two tabs which sits right down in the housing, where there are two flanges. The washer goes on top of the gear, which is where I put it. The spring on the plunger. I just took it back off today to inestigate, somehow the first washer with the two tabs on the side was bending which I don't understand, it was a bit bent up in the center when I pulled it off. Not sure if I put that in the wrong direction, from further reading the worn side needs to go up torwards the sky, not sure how this would cause this to bend. Going to try and put it back together and see what happens.

[michaelandmeganc]

Okay, I took it back apart, put it back together. Same noise. I came to conclusion this noise is just the fork sliding or the actuator engaging 4wd. I think if I did something terribly wrong I wouldn't have 4wd in the first place. Now here's the kicker. I know better then using 4 hi on payment, but I just attempted to put it in 4 hi just to ensure everything was working properly. Going down the driveway, it feels like in 4wd the right wheel is locking? Any idea or is this normal on payment? I'm not used to trying 4 on pavement because I know it's not good, but is it suppose to lock on payment?

Okay, I took it back apart, put it back together. Same noise. I came to conclusion this noise is just the fork sliding or the actuator engaging 4wd. I think if I did something terribly wrong I wouldn't have 4wd in the first place. Now here's the kicker. I know better then using 4 hi on payment, but I just attempted to put it in 4 hi just to ensure everything was working properly. Going down the driveway, it feels like in 4wd the right wheel is locking? Any idea or is this normal on payment? I'm not used to trying 4 on pavement because I know it's not good, but is it suppose to lock on pavement?

[elite0259]

4WD is fine on pavement, for very short distances, how far did you drive before it bound up? I test my 4WD on pavement all the time and mine never locks going straight, I can't even tell it's engaged until I turn the wheel hard and feel it bind up.

[michaelandmeganc]

4WD is fine on pavement, for very short distances, how far did you drive before it bound up? I test my 4WD on pavement all the time and mine never locks going straight, I can't even tell it's engaged until I turn the wheel hard and feel it bind up.

 

 

I found out it's back to normal. The sound was just the noise of the fork sliding when it activates to 4wd. I've never used 4wd on payment so I didn't know what to expect. Only time I activate it is when I'm out in the fields or at the supply place which happens to always be filled with mud and ruts. I drove it some more, 4wd hi is working just fine when I go straight down the road. It was only binding when I went to take the sharp turn in and out of the driveway, no binding or locking going straight. So I assume that's normal correct? By the way the corner to our driveway is very sharp.

[elite0259]

Yes, four wheel drive binds during turns on concrete, and shouldn't when going straight, at least for a short distance...

[michaelandmeganc]

Yes, four wheel drive binds during turns on concrete, and shouldn't when going straight, at least for a short distance...

 

Gotcha. So everything is back to normal. Took her to work and all seems good. No more leaky axles on neither side anymore. 4wd isn't binding when going straight, it was only binding when turning in or out of my driveway onto the street which is a sharp turn because me and my neighbor share a driveway, with me being on the outside so I have to turn around his truck and trailer in the drieway, which a very sharp turn. It scared to me because I never felt it bind before and as soon as I went to turn out of the driveway and turn in it felt like it was locked. Obiously that was just binding from the sharp turn on the concrete. Now I'm glad the axle seals are done and over with. One side took about 30 minutes using air, the other side took about an hour using air with the exception I took it apart twice, which should have been once but for some odd reason I was thinking 4wd was suppose to be dead silent when shifting, but after reading the manual obviously that isn't the case. :/ Overall the job wasn't near as bad as many said it would. If someone has leaky axle seals it's not that complicated because all the videos and forums had me ran off on whether or not to jump in or take it to the shop.

[gmtech4]

Gotcha. So everything is back to normal. Took her to work and all seems good. No more leaky axles on neither side anymore. 4wd isn't binding when going straight, it was only binding when turning in or out of my driveway onto the street which is a sharp turn because me and my neighbor share a driveway, with me being on the outside so I have to turn around his truck and trailer in the drieway, which a very sharp turn. It scared to me because I never felt it bind before and as soon as I went to turn out of the driveway and turn in it felt like it was locked. Obiously that was just binding from the sharp turn on the concrete. Now I'm glad the axle seals are done and over with. One side took about 30 minutes using air, the other side took about an hour using air with the exception I took it apart twice, which should have been once but for some odd reason I was thinking 4wd was suppose to be dead silent when shifting, but after reading the manual obviously that isn't the case. :/ Overall the job wasn't near as bad as many said it would. If someone has leaky axle seals it's not that complicated because all the videos and forums had me ran off on whether or not to jump in or take it to the shop.

I gave some good tips on reinstallation of that dam tube , lowering that pass side of the pumpkin makes a world of difference . Did ya try it the second time by chance ? Or did ya have no helper

[michaelandmeganc]

I gave some good tips on reinstallation of that dam tube , lowering that pass side of the pumpkin makes a world of difference . Did ya try it the second time by chance ? Or did ya have no helper

 

 

Certainly, I appreciate all the help also, can't say THANK YOU enough. I defiantly had to lower the passenger side, I don't even know if I would been able to get it in there the second time without lowering being that I was by myself, worst of all I was working on my back with no lift. The first time I had my wife around the house to move that CV left to right when it was in my way. She wasn't around the second go around. Funny thing it was a pita the first go around with her help, but by myself the second time and I managed to get it up there in just a few minutes by myself. It wasn't easy, I had to get the spring in the hole and everything lined up then a little pushing inward and it slid right up there. I'm sure you could have done it much, much easier. I'm by far not a truck mechanic, but I do work on tractors, so I wasn't going in completely blind. The only thing that worries me a bit was when I knocked the axle out of the tube to change the seal, there was a few light scratches where that seal rides. I cleaned it up really good and took a few light wipes around it with the emory cloth and sealed her up good. Used GM seals instead of those parts house seals "National" seals. Everything appears good so far, no leaks on either side. I'll let you know if I need some more help on the drive though, but I don't want to jinx myself. I about got all the leaks fixed on this 350,000 mile 5.3. Put a new transmission in a few months ago, just did the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, crankshaft position sensor, water pump, and now the axle seals. Now's the first time it's been completely dry of oil, coolant, and differential fluid under there in a while. :0