Jump to content

Model numbers


derf

Recommended Posts

Posted

Searching for information on various manufacturers of light truck I found very confusing. I wanted a heavier light truck in the 3/4 ton area. I am from the old school of 1/2, 3/4, one ton designation. Dodge does okay with 150 = 1/2 ton, 250 = 3/4 ton and 350 = one ton. Ford gets confusing with 150 = 1/2 ton, but then has, or at least had, a 250LD as about 5/8 ton (7700GVWR), and 250SD = 3/4 ton, and 350SD = one ton. Only partly confusing.

 

But now with GM the confusion really lights up (or is it that my light bulbs are really dim?). GM has 1500 = 1/2 ton, then they have a 1500HD which is actually a 3/4 ton (8600GVWR), and also the 2500LD which is also 3/4 ton (8600GVWR), then the 2500HD is really a one ton with SRW. (They have two vehicles with a 2500 number but greatly different GVWR). Finally there is the 3500 which is also a one ton but with DRW. Wow! Can you see why I was initially confused by the numbers that GM uses? Or is it just that half of my light bulbs were missing. I have since replaced the bulbs and now feel enlightened, but it was quite a chore replacing those GM light bulbs.

 

In spite of all this I would never turn away from the 2500LD that I have. It is great!!!!

 

Did anyone else have problems deciphering the numbering system of GM?

Posted

Nope!  I generally go by what engine is offered in what chassis.  The only way to get the 496 was to get a 2500HD or greater.

 

If the 1500HD came with it, I would've bought that.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 421 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...