Jump to content

Driver Side Door Check


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys, living in North Texas we deal with strong gusts of wind everyone now and then. One caught me while I was opening my door and blew my door wide open. There was a loud pop and now my door opens like a dang suicide door. Plus when I close it is no longer flush with the front fender. Door doesn't look bent, none of the hinges are bent. I am wondering is this just a door check issue? Does a door check have anything to do with door position??? Thanks for the help!

Posted

Where the check is, there should be two bolts that secure it to the body. Check around that area for bent metal. You could also be looking at something inside the door too, where the other side attaches

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 year later...
Posted

First post here. Same thing happened to me. Opened my door and a gust of wind blew it open further than what its supposed to be. After taking almost the entire door apart I found this in the bottom of my door. Is this part of the door check? I’ve been researching and haven’t found anything on this. 

F235891A-C0BD-4DE1-A66C-E71502ABD453.jpeg

EB9068B2-ABC5-4A89-9E36-6E82F1C79A45.jpeg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.
    • still $4.00 85 oct.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...