Jump to content

Purchasing questions


Recommended Posts

Posted

So I've done a lot of research and found a truck I'd like to make a move on. It's expensive for the year, but the miles are right and there's no rust which is very rare for central Indiana.

 

https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/6176188549.html

 

 

Here's a link to the truck I'm thinking about purchasing. What should I be looking out for on these trucks when I inspect it besides the usual leak/noise check? Anyone have additional advice for someone looking to purchase a fullsize? Budget is 13k.

Posted

Personally I have my doubts about the truck. Interior looks to be from a SLE, but the truck does not have fog lights or any badging. Definitely has new paint, and 15 year old trucks from the north will have rust unless it was some kind of garage queen.

Check it out VERY carefully, especially underneath for signs of rust repair. The ad does not list that engine it has, could be the 4.3 V-6, or the 4.8 or 5.3 V-8.

Overpriced for a truck from the north in my opinion. I see way too many of the northern vehicles that show up in Florida when the old people move down here. Just my .02 cents worth, good luck.

Posted

I was thinking the same. The fender flares are my first point of inspection as I know that and under the doors are the first place rust shows up on these. The truck books for 7500 if it's in perfect condition, but I don't mind paying more if it's truly in perfect shape and would last me a few years. Everything else locally is very high mileage and doesn't have my interest at all. I certainly wouldn't offer 12, more in the range of 10.

 

 

He did say it was garage kept it's whole life and only driven on weekends. Thank you though, I'm definitely questioning it a bit more now. That's exactly why I asked.

Posted

I would keep looking, took my almost a year to find a good one in Michigan with all the options I wanted. I got and 06 crew cab with 110k for 12k fully loaded and sliding sun roof.. very little rust. I was well aware that the rockers will need replaced at sum point..

 

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks for the advice! I unfortunately don't have a year to wait... maybe a month but not a year. I guess I could buy a beater and hold off until I find the right truck.

Posted

He stayed firm on the price so I passed. I can't justify paying 5,000 over book because something is clean. I could fix just about anything for that. On to the next one!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,835
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ballencd
    Newest Member
    ballencd
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 716 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m doing an experiment on a vehicle I don’t have much money in. I’m going by the premise that after they last 100K miles they were no mechanical problems with assembly. Or defects with the parts. With oil changes by the minder for the first 127K miles when I acquired it. I quickly went through low mileage oil changes then settled on 5k oil changes with close to 170K miles on the vehicle currently. I did have the option to turn off the cylinder deactivation. I didn’t on this vehicle because in ECONOMY mode at least half the time. It should be a no brainer frequent oil changes are the key. The manufacturer gets away with the long oil changes with its severe service  maintenance. Just ask them what is normal. 
    • Even set to "recirculated", the air pushes out and is hot. I have noticed that sometime it doesn't want to switch between recirculated/vented air. Say it is set to Circulated Air and I want to switch to Vented, when I click the Vented button, it just quickly lights up/clicks and immediatly switches back to Circulated. It's done this a few times now. So maybe it is an actuator getting stuck? But then, that doesn't explain the hot air when everything is off does it?
    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...