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    • If you have actually done it, there must be some secret tool or method of accessing the hidden bolt head that both manifold connections have. Two of the three bolt heads are staring at you in the face from below but the third one is covered by shielding and as far as I know only accessed by removing part of the fender well lining to gain access to it and even then its awful to access or from what I had seen of someone fighting with it on a video.    There is a reason why even mechanics that deal with the awkward or risky business of undoing the exhaust at the manifolds have done the same method others are doing with these L8T by flexing the exhaust if need be or just able to slip the pan out as I did without needing to touch hardware or pry on the exhaust. By rights the two seals should be replace when those joints are cracked loose as well.     
    • Actually it was a lot more controlled then I thought it might be and that isn't actually when I spilled some oil. I had thought prior of rounding up a couple of longer bolts with the same thread to swap out for a couple of the front edge pan bolts and then leaving one bolt left in the back but loosened off and then using a suction device to remove most of the fluid, that certainly would have worked and while I do have a couple of different devices I could have used to suck the fluid, now having done the job once I wouldn't even bother. I had thought of buying one of those pressurized vessels to suck or new fluid in and would if I was doing a job like this on a few vehicles but with one vehicle I just didn't bother and I have pail pumps as well I could have used assuming the hose end would fit into that less than roomy space but being such a thin fluid it pumped well with a quart type pump and just kept the hose into the trans and kept swapping containers and repeat.    What I would change to the method I did though was first jack up just the rear of the truck to put on jack stands to allow more oil to come out of the check plug on the front of the pan ( and as I did, I made sure to put that drain plug back in finger tight ) then follow through by putting the front on jack stands. Also that I would have used a larger sized drain pan in the sense of covering an area wider/longer beyond the transmission but I didn't have one and saw someone else on a youtube video using a masonry mud mixing tub and bought one at a hardware store to use in the future. The main oopsy  I did and why I spilled some oil was all my fault as I neglected to follow my own plan, I should have let down the pan as I did to drain out the front of it as much as would come out but then scooped out the remainder of the oil with the Dixie cup I had sitting there just for that purpose as by that point there is enough room to reach right into the front of the pan and just bail it out basically. 
    • Pretty easy to just remove/drop the exhaust behind the manifolds. They're in no way hard to get to. Maybe 5min of work, and you get the opportunity to put some anti-sieze on them in case anything ever comes up, you eliminated the risk of snapping a stud. 
    • I let the dealer do every other oil change simply so they can rotate the tires, which is a pita at home. 
    • I addition, I won't have a pan full of fluid sloshing around to get all over the place.   I am putting on the Dorman pan with the drain plug. It looks like it is around the same height. I have one of these guys to make life a lot easier.   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CDXJCCT?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1      
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