Jump to content

Temps getting high while at idle

Ataylorlv

Recommended Posts

Ataylorlv Enthusiast

Ataylorlv

Posted
Posted

2005 yukon xl 2500 6.0. As stated, my temps are hitting around 230 and the ac gets warm when idling for a more than a couple minutes like in a drive thru. Just replaced the thermostat, fan clutch is less than a year old and appears to be in working order. I am wondering if I have an airflow issue. I tow a 5500lb travel trailer, so I upgraded the trans cooler to a larger one and I replaced the stock radiator last year and went with a nice 2" thick aluminum one instead of the 1" core that was from the factory. Do you think that the added trans cooler and the thicker could inhibit proper airflow? I can shine a flashlight through all 3 (condenser, trans cooler and radiator). Thanks for any input. Oh yeah, I live in Vegas where it can be 115-120 on the street. 

carkhz316 Enthusiast

carkhz316

Posted
Posted

Have you verified the engine temp via live data? The gauge could be reading erroneously, as often can happen with the stepper motors in the cluster. The whole point of bigger coolers and radiators is to have better cooling, so that's not bound to be any issue there.

carkhz316 Enthusiast

carkhz316

Posted
Posted

I would keep the mechanical fan, as they will move more air more efficiently then a electric one for that truck. I just re-read your first post, and even though you said the fan clutch is only a year old, the fact that you are having overheating issues AND poor AC performance while idling or moving slow tells me that the fan isn't moving enough air (clutch isn't working properly). I would check it out by letting the truck cool off and giving the fan a spin (engine off) and verifying that it doesn't spin more than a revolution or two. If it free wheels, then the clutch is bad. I hope this helps, and good luck!

Ataylorlv Enthusiast

Ataylorlv

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Same fan shroud. Fan clutch solid, it only spins about 1/4 turn when I spin it by hand. Could be worth a warranty replacement just in case. Replaced thermostat last night, seems to hold closer to normal Temps, but the a/c still blows barely cool when sitting in one spot. 

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

Which clutch did you purchase? They make a "heavy duty" and a "severe duty" in the aftermarket. On your AC, you may be slightly undercharged, but I'd make sure everything else is correct before going down that road

Ataylorlv Enthusiast

Ataylorlv

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I bought the severe duty from O'Reilly. Maybe I should go with the oem one. I'll check the ac as well, but it should be good. I replaced everything 2 years ago when the compressor went out. Thanks

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...