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05 1500 brakes work fine, then fade right as you finish rolling


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Posted

Hello,

Short time ago I had a noise in my rear end (thought it was dragging brake drums, in the process of investigating damaged the passenger side rear brake cylinder, I replaced the cylinder, worn out shoes, self adjuster(was why I damaged the one brake cylinder...)).

Ended up being the pinion bearing was grenading (but still felt tight)  so had my local shop redo the rear end bearings, and replace the front drivers axle seal in the diff while it was in.

When I replaced the brake cylinder I bled just that corner. At the end fluid was fluid, no bubbles. 

 

Brake pedal feels the same as it always has, not squishy, feels good.

Brakes just fine for 99% of the braking process.

But when braking and coming to a COMPLETE stop, just as the vehicle rolls the last 1 or 2 feet or so the brake peddle will suddenly push down another inch or two and then grab again.

Its like it suddenly looses pressure, but then gains it back (peddle does not push backup, but it feels like it gains pressure it "holds" the truck as it rolls its last inch or two forward).

 

Happens maybe 20% of the time when stopping. It only happens right at the end of the stopping process, never happens during a rolling stop or just braking to slow down. ONLY right at the end of fully stopping.

Noticed this morning the one time when on the brakes a little harder to fully stop, as the peddle suddenly went down the inch or 2, the ABS kicked in for a second. Was odd. First time noticing the ABS kicking in while it did it.

 

I have bled brakes on a few vehicle before, when improperly done(or not done) the peddle is "squishy". Never had a feeling like this where the brakes are good, until you roll the last 2 feet or so.

 

Thoughts? 

Posted

Rust jacking on your wheel hubs causes the abs sensor to move away from the teeth on the whee bearing. This causes the abs to kick in as it sees wheels spinning at different speeds. 

 

Remove each abs sensor, save the shim, and clean all rust from the sensor and where it mounts to the wheel bearing. 

 

Have your hard or soft brake lines been replaced? These trucks are known for shitty cheap hard lines. Both fuel and brakes. 

 

Have you replaced wheel bearings yet?

 

Good luck. 

Posted

Interesting.

Is it possible to access that without taking the disc off?

 

My goal is to find a 3/4 ton once the right used one pops up and sell this truck. So Ideally I don't want to stick too much money into front brakes, and I suspect the calipers probably wont want to play ball coming off easily. 

Like the rear shoes, the front is about ready for pads and rotors. Wont get any better sale price even with all new brakes.

 

No, no lines replaced. Nope, very little work needed on it from the 160,000km to 260,000km (100k miles to 160k miles) I have owned it, up until this rear end.

Posted

It’s basically a free fix. 

 

Yes the wheels, caliper, and rotor have to come off. 

 

Look it up on you tube. 

 

Going to cost more in your insurance premiums when you rear end someone. 

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