Jump to content

2017 silverado tailgate screws

BleedBowties
 Share

Recommended Posts

BleedBowties Enthusiast

BleedBowties

Posted
Posted

I recently took the factory bed liner out of my 2017 1500 but now I need the screws for the tailgate cover, any idea what size they are?

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, BleedBowties said:

I recently took the factory bed liner out of my 2017 1500 but now I need the screws for the tailgate cover, any idea what size they are?

If you go to your dealer, start with this part number, 11570637

BleedBowties Enthusiast

BleedBowties

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks but they want almost $11 a piece for them and they come in a pack of 10. No thanks... lol What are the sizes for the p/n 11611882? I'll try and find them elesewhere?

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, BleedBowties said:

Thanks but they want almost $11 a piece for them and they come in a pack of 10. No thanks... lol What are the sizes for the p/n 11611882? I'll try and find them elesewhere?

Same size, these are the part numbers when you do not have the liner, the longer liner screws have a different part number.

 

I would check with another dealer, I found them sold induvial around the Seattle area. They were only a couple of bucks each, somebody is making up a lot of missed sales at $11.00 each.

BleedBowties Enthusiast

BleedBowties

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Quote

I'll say....that's why I always try and avoid factory parts...tooo xpensive. Thanks for your input.

 

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 5/22/2020 at 9:34 AM, BleedBowties said:

 

You are very welcome.

 

They are the same screw that holds in your tail lights, fender well liners and so on, they are every where on the truck.

Take one out and go to hardware store, Fastenal, anywhere with odd size fasteners. 

Edited by JimCost2014
  • 2 years later...
NeoxReeq New Member

NeoxReeq

Posted
Posted (edited)

The correct part number has to be 11570637, as I bought a couple of them two weeks ago. The problem was that I couldn't find any of those screws at the local dealer. I had to order them and wait for them for almost a week, which is pretty frustrating. Someone actually told me that you could use the best bugle batten screws there as they fit perfectly, and they are much cheaper. My brother has actually done that, and it seems like they are working fine. However, I still think using the original part is much more reliable.

Edited by NeoxReeq

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 289 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...