Bilstein leveling kit - 08 1500 4wd V8

thezentree · August 16, 2020

Hey all, new here and have a 08 Sierra 1500 V8 4wd that needs new shocks. It's currently got a RC 2" strut spacer leveling kit and 285s on it, but the shocks are factory and it's got 210k miles on it. They are done, to say the least. I think I have an idea of what I want, just wanted to run it past y'all in case I'm about to order the wrong parts. Before anyone jumps my sh*t, I did search and couldn't find a thread that cleared this up, but that's not to say I didn't miss something.

Front:

Bilstein shocks P/N 24-186940, with the spring seat clip set in the top groove, factory springs, and no RC spacer. I want to keep it as low as I can while still clearing the 285s with no cutting, so if I can get away with a lower groove, let me know.

Rear:

Bilstein rear shocks P/N 24-293082. Maaaybe and ORD zero rate in the rear to add an inch to the rear so it's not squatted when loaded? I am assuming that the rear shocks I listed above will work with 1" lift in the rear?

Thanks in advance.

Lurchenstein · August 17, 2020

I am interested in this as well.

I am looking in to,

front

Bilstein 6112

rear

bilstein 5160

wheels 18x9.5 -18 offset

tires

goodyear wrangler duratrac 295/65/18

Gtschwifty · August 21, 2020

2012 Silverado 1500 V8(LC9) 6l80 4WD extended cab 6'6" bed WT.

Just ordered the B8 6112 with 5100's for the rear. 765 shipped

Stock wheels and 265/70r17 tires for the time being

Edited August 21, 2020 by Gtschwifty

Gtschwifty · August 21, 2020

All of the literature I've read says 24-293082 should work for 0-1" of lift in the rear.

Gtschwifty · August 21, 2020

Thezentree we need more detail. 285 is only the width. Need aspect ratio, rim size, offset to have any idea of what you're working with. I think you're on the right path with top notch in the front and adding an inch in the rear. Should net 1.25" MORE rake than you currently have. If that's too much I'd look into a different block in the rear or having one milled to achieve however much rake you're after. If it were me I'd order just the struts and shocks with those part numbers you posted(seems to be about $357 on shocksurplus with SHOCKD 5% promo code) set it at the top notch, drive it a while, load it, measure it, then decide what(if any) lift you would like in the rear. I can't see it being more than an inch so your rear shocks would be ready. Also with 210,000 miles on factory struts you may stand to benefit with a kyb top hat with bearing and spring seat ($40 per strut on rockauto) since you're swapping those over to the 5100s anyways it would be the time to do it.

Edited August 21, 2020 by Gtschwifty

thezentree · August 21, 2020

2 hours ago, Gtschwifty said:

Thezentree we need more detail. 285 is only the width. Need aspect ratio, rim size, offset to have any idea of what you're working with. I think you're on the right path with top notch in the front and adding an inch in the rear. Should net 1.25" MORE rake than you currently have. If that's too much I'd look into a different block in the rear or having one milled to achieve however much rake you're after. If it were me I'd order just the struts and shocks with those part numbers you posted(seems to be about $357 on shocksurplus with SHOCKD 5% promo code) set it at the top notch, drive it a while, load it, measure it, then decide what(if any) lift you would like in the rear. I can't see it being more than an inch so your rear shocks would be ready. Also with 210,000 miles on factory struts you may stand to benefit with a kyb top hat with bearing and spring seat ($40 per strut on rockauto) since you're swapping those over to the 5100s anyways it would be the time to do it.

Hah sorry, I come from the land of 4Runners where “285s” means either 285/75R16 or the 17” equivalent. I’ve got 285/70R17s on factory wheels. My next set of tires will likely be 255/80R17s but if the 285s fit, the 255s should too.

I think you’re right about holding off on doing anything to the rear (other than shocks).

And good call on new hardware. I’m sure the existing stuff is a little crusty.

Gtschwifty · August 21, 2020

Bilsteins, 255/80r17s, you do come from the land of Toyota. I am curious about that size as well, which tire? Haven't found anyone really running them on this platform

thezentree · August 21, 2020

1 hour ago, Gtschwifty said:

Bilsteins, 255/80r17s, you do come from the land of Toyota. I am curious about that size as well, which tire? Haven't found anyone really running them on this platform

#overlandAF haha

My Sierra has been relegated to a second vehicle since I got the 4Runner, but eventually I plan to cut up a 1st gen Tacoma as a dedicated trail rig so I don’t ruin the 4Runner or the Sierra. The Sierra is going to be the tow pig for that and won’t see much dirt other than trips to the beach or forest roads, so a skinnier tire is appealing to me from a MPG perspective. Right now I’ve got my eye on a set of Falken AT3Ws in 255/80 since I loved the set I had on the 4Runner.

Gotta get new shocks first so I can get it aligned after it’s (re)leveled.

Gtschwifty · August 23, 2020

Sounds like a plan. Full disclosure I ordered my shocks and struts before I've even taken possession of the truck, picking it up this Friday though. By financial necessity it will be my one and only daily driver. So for now I am thinking I'll try the second circlip ring on the 6112's (back has a mid-height topper and I need rake) along with just "4 ply" 265/70r17 falken at3w because at 600 for a set I am hard pressed to find a better tire. I loved my set on my old F150 and they are excellent for rain and winter, especially being non-LT with the grippy silica compound. Eventually I do want either the p285/70r17 or the LT255/80r17.

thezentree · August 28, 2020

Welp, got the springs swapped to the new front shocks, but it's looking like I'm going to have to separate the upper ball joint so the lower control arm can drop far enough to get the bar pin on top of it. That means pulling the CV out of the hub so I can get a puller on the bottom of the ball joint.

Anyone run into this before?

Gtschwifty · August 29, 2020

Did you disconnect your antisway bar

thezentree · August 29, 2020

10 hours ago, Gtschwifty said:

Did you disconnect your antisway bar

Yes, the upper control arm is resting on the bottom of the frame mount.

Gtschwifty · August 31, 2020

How did it go?

thezentree · September 1, 2020

1 hour ago, Gtschwifty said:

How did it go?

It's still on jackstands, but mostly due to me being indecisive.

I thought about it more and decided to keep the RC leveling block and drop the spring seat down to the lowest groove. This way I keep the same amount of lift and don't have to add a bunch of preload to the springs and stiffen the ride a bunch.

Unfortunately the cheap spring compressor kit I had turned out to be basically disposable, so I'm waiting on an OTC clamshell strut spring compressor to get here to take it all apart again. Also I neglected to order jounce bumpers with the KYB top hats (you'd think they'd be included), and it would bug me forever to not have those installed, so those are on the way too. Thankfully I'm working from home and have the 4Runner to get around in, so I'm not too jammed up.

I'll follow up when I get all the parts and have time to take another stab at it.

Gtschwifty · September 1, 2020

I still cannot wrap my head around what people mean by preloading the spring. In my mind all you're doing is extending the distance from spring perch to lower control arm exactly the same as a lower spacer. Preloading shock travel and droop if anything. I am not saying I am right, I am looking to be set straight if I am missing something obvious here. The stiffer ride would be due to the arm being farther out of neutral resulting in less force acting perpendicular to the control arm meaning less torque rotating the arm into the dampener and more force sent through the arms into the frame. I cannot get past it being a result of geometry no matter how it's achieved.