Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Good Morning,

 

Want to add the full center console to my 2020 RST.

 

Availability of used parts is pretty much nill.

 

Wondering if anyone has an easy list of all the parts needed to make the swap if buying directly from GM or a resource besides eBay for the part.

 

I’m finding complete consoles listed for Tahoes and Burbs on the gm parts supplier sites for like $650 but, only pieces parts for the T1 trucks.

 

I realize this isn’t the cheapest way to go but, all the trucks I looked at were $2k more than what fit my budget so if I can buy the whole mess from GM for like $800 and sell the jump seat for $250 I’ll be a happy camper.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
I'm super interested in doing this also so please keep us updated on how it goes.

If I have time this weekend I’ll try to pull up diagrams from gm to make a shopping list. In the mean time I bought a small nylon organizer thing that fits pretty well in between the jump seat and the dash and it will help me for now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

https://www.gmpartsclub.com/v-2020-chevrolet-silverado-1500--rst--5-3l-v8-gas/body--center-console

 

OK if you go down the list here you can add in all the parts needed easily... Adds up to $850 without wireless charging.. What strikes me as odd is that the site is estimating $310 for shipping?? I can stomach $850 but, $1200 - not so much..

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I did mine this weekend.

 

The guy who sold me the center console lied about everything being included and he did not include the 2 wiring harnesses.

 

I was an idiot and took the wiring harness out of my jump seat expecting it to work, it didnt.

Removing the wiring harness out of my jump seat was BY FAR the hardest part of this process. If you can get a center console that actually includes all parts, it is a super easy thing to do. Would have taken me less then an hour without a doubt.

 

Also something I haven't seen mentioned anywhere, you will also need this trim piece for the gap between the console and the dash:

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-lower-panel-84127263

 

I have one ordered and I'll be installing it once the wiring harnesses come in as well.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
I did mine this weekend.
 
The guy who sold me the center console lied about everything being included and he did not include the 2 wiring harnesses.
 
I was an idiot and took the wiring harness out of my jump seat expecting it to work, it didnt.
Removing the wiring harness out of my jump seat was BY FAR the hardest part of this process. If you can get a center console that actually includes all parts, it is a super easy thing to do. Would have taken me less then an hour without a doubt.
 
Also something I haven't seen mentioned anywhere, you will also need this trim piece for the gap between the console and the dash:
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-lower-panel-84127263
 
I have one ordered and I'll be installing it once the wiring harnesses come in as well.
 

Nice. Where did you buy it from?

I under estimated how much I dislike the jump seat when I did the test drive. Biggest reason I didn’t get the center console was all the trucks I found with it also had the convenience 2 package which was an extra $1500 and none of the features really appealed to me that much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I’m about to do this to my Elevation.  I’m trying to make sure I have the required parts.  I thought I read that you need the harness extension so that that USB ports work?  Also, will the air ducks work?   

Posted
I’m about to do this to my Elevation.  I’m trying to make sure I have the required parts.  I thought I read that you need the harness extension so that that USB ports work?  Also, will the air ducks work?   

I would up getting SUPER lucky and found a local guy that wanted to swap! Don’t waste your $ on the USB ports in the console need to be hooked up behind the radio somewhere.

The ports in the back of the console worked with the harness that came with the console.

Make sure you get the trim piece that goes below the radio as well.

Vents work fine.

Worst part of the job was removing the console from the other guys truck, if I had an assembled console I’d be able to remove the jump seat and install in an hour or so. Swapped the two trucks on my own in about 4 hours including gathering tools and cleaning up afterwards.

You’ll need to remove the front seats so make sure you have a good set of torx bits, I think the seats need T50 size.

If you get stuck don’t hesitate to PM me. Or PM ahead of time for my email address as I don’t always respond to
PMs quickly.

I’d highly suggest doing this upgrade, I really like the full console.

Remember you can sell ur jump seat on eBay for a decent buck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 hour ago, Imcrazy said:


I would up getting SUPER lucky and found a local guy that wanted to swap! Don’t waste your $ on the USB ports in the console need to be hooked up behind the radio somewhere.

The ports in the back of the console worked with the harness that came with the console.

Make sure you get the trim piece that goes below the radio as well.

Vents work fine.

Worst part of the job was removing the console from the other guys truck, if I had an assembled console I’d be able to remove the jump seat and install in an hour or so. Swapped the two trucks on my own in about 4 hours including gathering tools and cleaning up afterwards.

You’ll need to remove the front seats so make sure you have a good set of torx bits, I think the seats need T50 size.

If you get stuck don’t hesitate to PM me. Or PM ahead of time for my email address as I don’t always respond to
PMs quickly.

I’d highly suggest doing this upgrade, I really like the full console.

Remember you can sell ur jump seat on eBay for a decent buck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ok.  I got all of that.  I've been on Car-parts looking for consoles.  I've found about 6 and sent emails for quotes.  None are within a decent drive of me (Houston). I got the part # for the trim piece.   I thought that to get the inside ports to work that I needed the extension harness?  My main thing is for the vents and the rear ports to work.  I made get the wireless charging if it comes with it.  I don't care about the wireless charging.  I had it in my 2018 Lt and my Camry and never used them because they are slow to charge.  I look at it as a gimmick.  

 

I have the full console in my 2018 Silverado and it's just something that I like.  The main reason I pulled the trigger on this truck is because I researched that you can change the console without much headache.  I was about the pull the trigger on a 2020 F150 sport because it has the console and all that but it didn't have LED lights and push to start.  It's easier to add a console than push to start.  I did a console swap in my 2000 Silverado back in college and it was easy.  There was no harness to hook up back then.  

Posted

You can find some good deals if you really dig around on car-parts. Sometimes you have to search just other parts and go look at cars with pictures and find one that shows a full center console. I just was really lucky and am getting one delivered to my house from Nebraska to Texas for $200 all in. I think the guy I was talking to had no idea......

 

BUT....you should be able to find some on there for around $600. Then add about $60 for shipping and you're still way better off than getting all the parts and going through the hassle of putting it together.

Posted
5 hours ago, shanemoon said:

You can find some good deals if you really dig around on car-parts. Sometimes you have to search just other parts and go look at cars with pictures and find one that shows a full center console. I just was really lucky and am getting one delivered to my house from Nebraska to Texas for $200 all in. I think the guy I was talking to had no idea......

 

BUT....you should be able to find some on there for around $600. Then add about $60 for shipping and you're still way better off than getting all the parts and going through the hassle of putting it together.


I found one today.  They want $500 plus $200 for shipping.  That’s kind of steep to me.  

Posted

I found one today.  They want $500 plus $200 for shipping.  That’s kind of steep to me.  

$200 is a lot for shipping. They must be sending it ups ground. I’d make sure it’s insured if so.

Still cheaper than buying new and putting it all together. Was a $700
Factory option and I bet you can sell
Your jump seat for at least $400 on eBay. I’d go for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Tewest86 said:


I found one today.  They want $500 plus $200 for shipping.  That’s kind of steep to me.  

Yeah that's way too much for shipping. UPS Ground is only like $80 max for that. The guys I got mine from are shipping it for $60.

But either way like the other guy said....last I checked it was around $1000 to buy all the parts for it from GM. Plus then you gotta go through the trouble of putting it together.

Edited by shanemoon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,759 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...