Mobil 1

[burgundyz71]

Have been tossing the idea around about running 5w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic since I got my 03 and she has 14000 miles now and I am guessing there should be no problem with switching over from Pennzoil blend but wanted to ask to be safe and another thing what filters are you guys using since the 44's are very scarce ?

[Shaners]

With 14K miles on the clock you can switch over to Mobil1 anytime.

 

Most people who switch over like to wait till they have at least 1K miles on their vehicles.

[Black02Silverado]

Shanners is the man. No problem switching over.

 

I use the AMSOIL SDF30, the other to use for my truck is the AC PF59 or the wix 51522. At least for the 02 year model. Don't see why it would make a difference on an 03.

 

I think you will like using synthetic.

[foghorn23]

I bought my 01 used with 20K on the speedo. So... I don't know for certain what it's oil history was, but I changed over to Mobil 1 5W-30 and have put about 9500 miles on it. No problems, no leaks, no usage, etc. Also, I either use the AC PF-59 or the Purolator Pure One PL25288. The AC is about 1/2 the price and probably is just fine. Since mine is an 01 it specifically calls for the PF-59, and I would use this filter on an 03 or 04 as well simply because it is a larger filter. Just my opinion. I really don't think you can go wrong with Mobil 1.

 

Vroten

[gmcjoe]

Go ahead and switch! I've been running Mobil 1 on my GMC for quite a while

I use the Mobil 1 filter too

[JayMan]

I think there's still a misconception about "break in" at least for light-duty gasoline motors. By the time you put 1,000 miles on it, the motor is broken in, unless you drive like a Granny.

 

To meet emissions, many motors are run on engine dyno's to fully seat the rings. Otherwise you would quickly destroy the O2 sensors and cats. How about motors that come with a synthetic factory fill oil? Or how about cars in Germany that are taken off the dealer floor and driven flat out on the Autobahn? That would be impossible to do unless the motor was already broken in.

 

A friend just took delivery of a 2004 VW Jetta wagon with the PD turbodiesel. It's factory filled with a special Castrol LongLife synthetic 0W-30 diesel engine oil, which allows you to go up to 2 years or 50,000 km between oil changes in Europe, 1 year or 25,000 km here in North America. Our diesel has much higher sulpher than Europe.

 

I changed my truck to synthetic at 1,600km / 1,000 miles. Everything is tight, no leaks, and my average oil consumption is 1 qt / 6,200 miles. The inside of the plastic oil filler cap is spotless, and I try to get at least 6,000 - 12,000 miles between oil changes.

 

The exception is still Heavy Duty diesel motors (Cat, Cummins, Detroit, etc), which need a 5,000 - 20,000 mile break-in. If you buy a Dodge Ram Heavy Duty with the Cummins, they warn you the first two oil changes MUST be with regular motor oil. If you really work the truck, it's broken in at 5,000 miles. If you drive it empty, more like 20,000 miles.

 

I would be leery of changing a motor over if it had more than 30,000 miles on it. The deposits left behind by Dino Poop oil will have destroyed the seals. The much higher detergent levels in synthetic oils will dissolve those deposits and it will leak like crazy. Not always, but usually.

[03Bowtie]

I asked a close friend of mine (who is a mechanic) about switching to synthetic and he said he wouldn't spend the extra money for it. He uses Castrol in his own vehicles. I've heard mixed opinions on this. I've also heard that you should be consistent with what you put in the vehicle. IE: Don't change brands all the time just because Pennzoil is on sale this week, and Castrol is on sale 3 months from now. I'd like to switch to synthetic, but really don't know if it is worth it.

[gunslinger45]

Well, as with everything else, everybody will have an opinion, so here's mine. If you take a look over the internet and look at the chemical properties and the range of those properties for synthetic oil vs dino oil, I just don't understand why people continue to debate its superiority. Synthetic oil protects over a greater temperature range and maintains its molecular integrity longer. Those are facts. Now the question I can understand is one of value. Does the superior product support its price? This is more ambiguous obviously. Will synthetic which is 4x the cost of dino oil make your engine last 4x as long....very doubtful. However, this is what it does give you:

 

1) A little extra piece of mind when you slam on the gas because you are annoyed at granny in front of you when your engine isn't quite up to full operating temperature. Or that the oil gets to the engine and valves a little quicker on startup, or in cold temps. Bottom line, reduction in engine wear by some amount.

 

2) More freedom to go beyond the "mystical" 3000 mile oil change interval. Maybe a synthetic oil change costs you twice as much...but, I don't think going 5000 miles before a synthetic change is all that bad, so have you really lost uch money here?

 

3) Proven to leave engine internals cleaner, and if nothing else, I can't help think that I'd rather have less carbon deposits than more in my engine.

 

One other anecdote....I have an 03 8.1L that had the CSK for about 3 min on startup and then it went away. I was using dino oil (changed at 500 mi, and then at 3500 mi) and switched to Mobil 1 synthetic at 3500 miles. The CSK completely went away. Considering the oil was the only variable I changed, I just chalked it up to yet another effect of a superior product. With a little luck, the noise will stay away.

 

The decision is of course yours, and I do not doubt the experience or knowledge of your mechanic, but I just can't see how synthetic is not a superior product that when used gives piece of mind with a minimal financial impact. Best of luck, and let us know what you decide.

 

Gunslinger

[Black02Silverado]

OK one more post here for me.

 

Seeing that a few are new to this forum, try checking out this one BITOG

 

If you have a question about lubrication, filters, and anything else in this area of life, check this site out. These guys live and breath, and sleep with lubes. I thought I was bad about collecting a huge supply of oil and filters, these guys are worse. Some cut open every oil filter they take off their vehicle to see what it looks like by the type of oil they were running and the miles on it. Not to mention some just go buy a ton of different brand filters and cut them all up to examine how they are made. This can be some usefull info for us all.

 

The used oil analysis section is really informative as well. It is information from everyone and anyone that has an interest in oil.

 

Give it a look see.

[JayMan]

I asked a close friend of mine (who is a mechanic) about switching to synthetic and he said he wouldn't spend the extra money for it. He uses Castrol in his own vehicles. I've heard mixed opinions on this. I've also heard that you should be consistent with what you put in the vehicle. IE: Don't change brands all the time just because Pennzoil is on sale this week, and Castrol is on sale 3 months from now. I'd like to switch to synthetic, but really don't know if it is worth it.

I'd go with that too. Different brands have different additive packages, especially that crap that claims to "condition your seals." Yeah, I bet, then you have to use it forever!

 

I guess you have to ask how long you want to keep the truck. If you lease, don't even bother. If you trade every 3-5 years, why worry about it? Don't even open the hood.

 

If you're in it for the long haul, like I am, then it DOES make sense. I've kept receipts going back to 1979 and can prove that on whatever piece of equipment (Heavy commercial, logging, farming, and personal) I have owned, there is a long-term payback to running the motor on synthetic oil FROM NEW.

 

I've usually found the break-even at around 38,000 miles for personal equipment and around 18,000-27,000 for the heavy duty commercial equipment (Holds way more oil, so payback is much faster).

 

On my personal equipment I have no problem with changing the oil every 6,000 - 14,000 miles, with filter changes every 3-6 months (Depends on filter brand). On the commercial stuff, I only change the oil when the Used Oil Analysis tells me to.

[JayMan]

One other anecdote....I have an 03 8.1L that had the CSK for about 3 min on startup and then it went away. I was using dino oil (changed at 500 mi, and then at 3500 mi) and switched to Mobil 1 synthetic at 3500 miles. The CSK completely went away. Considering the oil was the only variable I changed, I just chalked it up to yet another effect of a superior product. With a little luck, the noise will stay away.

 

Gunslinger

Weird, as my 00 Vortec 5.3 did the same thing: "CSK" that took anywhere from 40 secs to 3 mins to go away.

 

I'm still not entirely convinced that it was Piston Slap or CSK. That doesn't go away until the motor warms up: 3-5 mins. Oil shouldn't have any affect on CSK. Yet I'm hearing more and more evidence that folks have eliminated or substantially reduced "CSK" by switching to a synthetic motor oil.

 

After 1,600 km / 1,000 mi I switched to Mobil 1 0W-30 and the noise vanished. If the temps dip to -40 F, I hear a TICK TICK TICK if started outside the garage, but I also hear nasty rod knock from most motors at that temp.

 

Anybody think this is due to the roller lifters taking too long to pump up? I'm not sure about the Big Block 8.1, but the smaller Vortec motors have a rear sump oil pan. There is a very long pickup tube that goes to the front of the motor, as the oil pump is now mounted to the front of the crank. That's a long way for thick goopy oil to be drawn up.

 

I'm wondering if this is why my manual recommends a synthetic 5W-30 or 0W-30 for temps colder than -20 F? Right, a superior product.

[RyanZ71]

>>>I would be leery of changing a motor over if it had more than 30,000 miles on it. The deposits left behind by Dino Poop oil will have destroyed the seals. The much higher detergent levels in synthetic oils will dissolve those deposits and it will leak like crazy. Not always, but usually. <<<

 

That has me a bit worried since my 99 Silver has almost 80,000 miles on her. I do plan on keeping her for 10+ years so I want to make sure she gets good attention.

[gunslinger45]

Ya, you bring up a good point about the lifters Jay. That was actually my first guess when I heard the noise, but then I heard about all the CSK stuff and the noise seemed to match what everyone else was describing. The lifter idea is certainly a simpler explanation and could have also been effected by switching oil. I guess the bottom line is that I cannot definitely say from examanition that it was CSK, only from associating it with other people's explanation. All I know is that I am happy the noise has gone away. Lifters or CSK, less noise means less wear, means better for the engine, right? I would think your manual recomending synthetic oil at low temperature is another good indication of its properties. Interesting enough, I don't have this in my manual though.

 

Gunslinger

[JayMan]

>>>I would be leery of changing a motor over if it had more than 30,000 miles on it. The deposits left behind by Dino Poop oil will have destroyed the seals. The much higher detergent levels in synthetic oils will dissolve those deposits and it will leak like crazy. Not always, but usually. <<<

 

That has me a bit worried since my 99 Silver has almost 80,000 miles on her. I do plan on keeping her for 10+ years so I want to make sure she gets good attention.

Well, I would use caution if the motor has that many miles on it. Since deposits have already formed, and synthetic oils have WAY higher detergent levels, you could be in for a nasty surprise.

 

Use your best judgement. That may include oil and filter changes every 3 months / 3,000 miles. I wouldn't be concerned if it only had 8,000 miles on it.

 

It's been my personal experience on heavy commercial equipment that not only will you get many seal leaks, but a lot of the sludge / soot will get knocked loose and plug up the oil galleries. Your gas motor doesn't make soot like a diesel, but there could be sludge.

 

FYI My 1984 Ford F-150 with 302 V8 has been run from new (6,000 km / 3,600 mi) on Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40. I would change the filter every 3-4 months and the oil every 1-2 years. At +500,000 km / +300,000 mi, the valvetrain and the inside of the valve covers are SPOTLESS, and the rear main seal has just started to drip.

[JayMan]

Ya, you bring up a good point about the lifters Jay. That was actually my first guess when I heard the noise, but then I heard about all the CSK stuff and the noise seemed to match what everyone else was describing. The lifter idea is certainly a simpler explanation and could have also been effected by switching oil. I guess the bottom line is that I cannot definitely say from examanition that it was CSK, only from associating it with other people's explanation. All I know is that I am happy the noise has gone away. Lifters or CSK, less noise means less wear, means better for the engine, right? I would think your manual recomending synthetic oil at low temperature is another good indication of its properties. Interesting enough, I don't have this in my manual though.

 

Gunslinger

Well, it does make you think about it, right? An oiling problem will obviously be fixed by using an oil that is much easier to pump. The quicker an oil flows, the faster the lifters pump up.

 

A mechanical problem like Piston Slap needs a mechanical solution, ie: new pistons or a new block.

 

Note: an old post mentioned this could also be related to carbon deposits on the Top Land compression rings, and a MotorVac or similar carbon cleaning procedure stopped the noise. Wouldn't carbon deposits take tens of thousands of miles to show up? It sure wouldn't happen new from the factory!

 

Hmmm. Your '03 doesn't mention synthetic oil for the Big Block, yet my '00 Vortec Small Block does. It makes you wonder if their test engineers uncovered a nasty surprise at the Cold Weather Test Track, which is 48 miles from my house.

 

No, it's not always that freezing cold here. We haven't been below 0 F yet.