Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay so this has me a little stumped. It has a fairly fresh jasper trans, fresh fluid and filter, . Around 45 it starts to buck in a way basically trying to lock in tc and out if I am applying light gas, if the rpm is above 2300-2500 it is smooth as glass, get it up to about 60+ it doesnt do it at all just smooth sailing no matter how much gas you give her. I have functioning cruise control, I am not missing gears or experiencing any slippage else where nor any weird or delayed shifts. I have ran some lucas antislip stuff in it and seems to lighten a little but not much so I am trying to figure out if I should be hunting down sensors or saving for a good t.c. when I changed fluids theres no evidence of shavings in it other then the normal slight wear which the fluid before I changed it was honestly beyond gone as in looked like a century old motor oil with a red tint level gone but smelled like trans. Which trans acts just fine other then that 45+ areareceived_345006547032870.thumb.jpeg.acc17088af3cabcb332c3627da1b8769.jpeg

Posted
Just now, Supreme Pizza said:

Is that your transmission fluid? Or the creature that killed Tasha Yar on Star Trek The Next Generation?

 

 

 

 

 

 

118.jpg

Oh yeah was nasty stuff man. But like I said nothing in the pan other when just a wee bit of normal wear. No chunks no glittery shavings etc. It definitely had something go wrong either was abused, they cheaped out and reused fluid, or someone accidentally dumped some motor oil in it. Which next week im doing another clean out just to make sure I got everything that was left over. But im trying to get w feel on what else to do, im no tranny guy by any means but motors I know, just havent found much support with trouble shooting the code 

Posted (edited)

It looks like the fluid is being burned. If you are just draining the pan, then you would need to:

 

Drain, Refill, Drive.

Drain, Refill, Drive.

Drain, Refill, Drive.

 

After 3 times you would probably have 60% new fluid.

 

The fluid condition indicates that your transmission may not be performing correctly, and the imminent failure is possible. Maybe the bad fluid is causing the problems, but probably not. Its worth a try though, replacing the fluid.

 

Drain plug trans pan would be worth installing, to save time.

Edited by Supreme Pizza
Posted
2 minutes ago, Supreme Pizza said:

It looks like the fluid is being burned. If you are just draining the pan, then you would need to:

 

Drain, Refill, Drive.

Drain, Refill, Drive.

Drain, Refill, Drive.

 

After 3 times you would probably have 60% new fluid.

 

The fluid condition indicates that your transmission may not be performing correctly, and the imminent failure is possible. Maybe the bad fluid is causing the problems, but probably not. Its worth a try though, replacing the fluid.

 

Drain plug trans pan would be worth installing, to save time.

Yeah ive already changed it one and a half times( yes half to drain and add lucas and some fresher fluid)  will be tanking it for a full system flush next week after the holidays. Which it was only that color when I first got this thing not that long ago, which I doubt it just fluid issue too hense why I am trying to get more ideas on where to start trouble shooting this thing as I have only found a single forum on it and their symptoms was not like mine

Posted (edited)

Jasper has been sucking lately - lots of friends of mine have been dealing with comebacks left and right due to Jasper installs. Not sure what's going on over there, but they're not the company they used to be.

 

The transmission is JUNK - whoever installed it needs to warranty it. No question about it. Black is clutch material. It's toast. You dumping that mechanic in a can stuff might have screwed you, though - you could get denied when they tear that one down. That stuff makes the valve body gaskets, which normally peel right off, stick like glue to the valve body. It also swells seals up, making actuators and clutch assemblies extremely difficult to disassemble. As soon as they crack it open and smell that, you might be screwed. Hopefully a decent shop installed it. It was clearly built WRONG.

 

I know of 2 places - one in Amarillo, TX, and the other in eastern / central PA that built top-notch transmissions if you're close to either. Even if you're not, the PA one ships. The guys in TX don't like to ship their products out because so many people destroy them upon install. Have to know what you're doing. You can turn $5,000 into scrap instantly.

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Jsdirt said:

Jasper has been sucking lately - lots of friends of mine have been dealing with comebacks left and right due to Jasper installs. Not sure what's going on over there, but they're not the company they used to be.

 

The transmission is JUNK - whoever installed it needs to warranty it. No question about it. Black is clutch material. It's toast. You dumping that mechanic in a can stuff might have screwed you, though - you could get denied when they tear that one down. That stuff makes the valve body gaskets, which normally peel right off, stick like glue to the valve body. It also swells seals up, making actuators and clutch assemblies extremely difficult to disassemble. As soon as they crack it open and smell that, you might be screwed. Hopefully a decent shop installed it. It was clearly built WRONG.

 

I know of 2 places - one in Amarillo, TX, and the other in eastern / central PA that built top-notch transmissions if you're close to either. Even if you're not, the PA one ships. The guys in TX don't like to ship their products out because so many people destroy them upon install. Have to know what you're doing. You can turn $5,000 into scrap instantly.

Trans was previously done before I got it and  I am only about $1900 in the vehicle total minus tires including buying and titling etc. So dont mind if trans is shot after all. But the weird part is its only in that one speed section at a low rpm thats what gets me.no other trans symptoms

 

Edited by Timothy Reyn
Posted

Torque converter could've failed where it's not releasing from lockup. Or there's a short to power in the lockup wiring. I can only guess from here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 330 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...