Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Its a 2003 chevy 1500 ls z71 So I've been noticing a vibration, it feels like its coming from around where the trans meets the engine maybe the torque converter. The vibrations happen at around 2000-4000 rmps. It doesn't happen every time I'm accelerating. It doesn't really make the truck lag to much but I'm just curious what could be causing it.

Posted

When you notice the vibration, put the truck in neutral let the revs go down or/rev the engine up - does the vibration change? Isolates the vibration to either engine or drivetrain. Engine loaded vibrations could be misfires. (Check engine light on?)

 

Try different combinations of gear selection, speed, rpm - a speed only related vibration is not caused by engine or transmission. Speed related vibrations check tire balance, drive shaft balanced and true, worn u-joints.

 

When you notice the vibration lightly rest your foot on the brake (only enough to turn the brake lights on) does the vibration go away? If so check the torque converter clutch.

 

Could also be something as simple as some mud build up on the tire or rim. 

Posted

So it is definitely not tires being out of balance or u joints being worn. I don't take thus truck in the mud so definitely not mud or anything like that. I can definitely feel it right next to my foot when on the gas pedal. I will try messing with putting it in different gears and all that. Check engine light is on but it's for one of those stupid evap codes

Posted
19 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

When you notice the vibration, put the truck in neutral let the revs go down or/rev the engine up - does the vibration change? Isolates the vibration to either engine or drivetrain. Engine loaded vibrations could be misfires. (Check engine light on?)

 

Try different combinations of gear selection, speed, rpm - a speed only related vibration is not caused by engine or transmission. Speed related vibrations check tire balance, drive shaft balanced and true, worn u-joints.

 

When you notice the vibration lightly rest your foot on the brake (only enough to turn the brake lights on) does the vibration go away? If so check the torque converter clutch.

 

Could also be something as simple as some mud build up on the tire or rim. 

UPDATE 

So I guess I would describe it as a brrrrrrr noise it happens in 2 gear at about 4k rpm and in 3rd gear at about 3k rpm I can also put it in neutral and drive it to 3k rpm and it will do it and same thing in park. I check the fluid and it's maybe an 1/8" of and inch to a 1/4" above the full line. The color of the fluid is still kinda purple but alittle brown. The noise is definitely coming from where the engine and trans meet.

Posted

Can you have someone hold the RPMs where it is making the noise in Park and listen with a mechanics stethoscope? Is it the sound causing something to vibrate - the catalytic converter is in that area - the media inside could be broken and rattling. Heatshield... Happening in park and neutral leads me away from transmission. 

Posted
On 11/3/2022 at 9:21 AM, asilverblazer said:

Can you have someone hold the RPMs where it is making the noise in Park and listen with a mechanics stethoscope? Is it the sound causing something to vibrate - the catalytic converter is in that area - the media inside could be broken and rattling. Heatshield... Happening in park and neutral leads me away from transmission. 

So I change the trans fluid and filter this week and I didn't seem to help to much maybe alittle better but hard to tell. Drain and change again maybe? Also it's been happening for a while now but when I first start the truck in the morning it has a very small knock or tick only fir a few seconds till the engine warms up alittle I always thought it was the engine but you think it could be the flex plate?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,271 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...