Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Installed a 12v socket in my 2024 GMC Sierra GMC 2500HD AT4 today. Goal was to connect the 12v socket to the Aux battery. I've been trying to get a 16 gauge wire through the bottom of the firewall feedthrough on the drivers side. I tried a stiff wire, X-Acto knife, long skinny screw driver, etc. I was able to make a small hole and get a piece of 12 gauge house wire through but was a pain getting the other wire to come through the nipple on the inside. 

 

I got a Diablo 1/4" spade bit at Ace and was able to drill a hole big enough to get a 16 gauge wire through by bending the edge over the end of the long skinny screw driver and pushing it through the hole from the engine side. I taped that wire to one of the 12AWG wires and used a drop of oil spread on the tape and pulled it through the firewall. Taped the other 12 AWG wire to the first one and pulled it through. 

 

I used Wirefy connectors with built in heat shrink and an Ancor crimper, got both from Amazon. 12v socket is a Bulldog Winch 12v 20A part number 20286. Bulldog Winch wanted a lot for shipping and got it from etrailer. It's rated for 20A, fused it at the Aux battery with a 15A fuse. Connected the negative wire to the ground bolt for the aux battery on the top of the fender. It comes with 3 different mounting options. I used 12 AWG red and black wiring from a local West Marine along with 3/8" split loom from West Marine. Split loom claims it is self-extinguishing. Secured the 12v socket with Scotch Extremely Strong Fasteners. Not sure how it will work but will probably have to hold on to the socket when connecting anything to it.

 

See next post for more pics.

 

 

Ancor Crimper.jpg

Wirefy Connectors 2.jpg

Diablo 0.25 inch Spade Bit.jpg

Bulldog 20286 20A 12v Power Socket.jpg

Scotch Fastener.jpg

Edited by rjgvt
Posted

First pic is wires inside the cab from the feedthrough.

Second pic, socket is mounted to the lower dash to the left of the console with the Scotch fastener.

Third pic: I moved the excess wiring/loom away from heat duct output. I tucked the excess in the side panel. I might move it more to the right of the heater duct.

Fourth pic: Wiring in loom from dash feedthrough.

Fifth pic: Wire loom from feedthrough to aux battery.

 

 

 

Wires through firewall inside cab.jpg

12v socket on dash.jpg

Wireloom in cab by heat duct.jpg

Engine side firewall feedthru drivers side.jpg

Wireloom from feedthru to aux battery.jpg

Posted

More pics. I ty-wrapped the wiring/wireloom to the other wiring in the engine compartment away from any liquid carrying hoses.

Last pic is where I mounted it before wiring it. 

Aux battery connection.jpg

Aux ground wire.jpg

12v Socket Location Before Wiring.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Just wanted to add that to make it easier to work on the feedthrough from the engine side, I laid a moving blanket across the front of the truck and engine. I used a ladder next to the front of the truck with the blanket protecting the truck. I initially tried working next to the drivers side on a HF step stool and was not able to see what I was doing.

Posted (edited)

Rerouted the wire loom under the dash to behind the heater duct and tucked the excess in the console panel. Also some finished pics.

 

Plan is to use the USB socket thing for plugging in my Garmin Inreach Satellite Communicator. My last truck had two 12v sockets, one was always on and used it for charging the Garmin every day or two. I could charge it in camp but would probably forget it so I leave it in the truck during hunting season.

 

Harness routed behind heater duct.jpg

Finished 12v socket.jpg

Finished with USB.jpg

Edited by rjgvt
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
    • The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...