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Need some audio/eletrical help with the 1500


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Posted

Hey guys,

I have MTX audio system that contains the thunderform box w/ 2 10's and a MTX amp. My system is just that, subs. It is wired up properly or so I thought. I installed the rear audio coontrols which plugged right in!!( will make a write up about it later). Now, everytime I cut on the rear audio controls on it sends everything thru my subs(highs and bass) I need the subs to cut off. What is the deal? Can somebody diagnose this problem? I need to fix it quick or it will damage my subs. Please help!!

Posted

Okay, I got that taken care of. Now, I dont have any power thru my factory speakers. All the radio fuses check out, but I have no chimes or anything. Which fuse is it or what can I check. I need help quickly.

Posted

Well...At least you got rid of the chimes :cheers:

 

 

 

I don't know much about the 03s, but when you added the rear audio controls....I don't know...Do you have to have the stealer reprogram to recognize? Just throwing that out there.

 

Also, where (and how) did you wire the amp in? Did you run it to the new controls? Or directly to the radio?

Posted

Hey,

The "amp" was run to my rear speakers at the radio. I swapped them to the front speakers. But, the installer had open wire so I had to tape that up. After getting it all back together, I have no sound. Only my subs pounding to the music. But I cannot hear it thru my speakers. Also, the cd player turns on but wont play sound, the chime is gone and my rear audio controls wont turn on. So, its gotta be a fuse. But, I checked the radio amp and radio fuse and both are good. I am stumped guys and I need this fixed tonight. Please help!!

Posted

I'm not saying that you don't have a fuse issue (did you put any inline?) ....But...Does your amp supply power to the door speakers? Just wondering because if you only amplify the subs, the power to them will come a LOT sooner on the volume knob, and your mids and tweets are getting practically zippo for power....Hence, them being really quiet.

 

Don't know about the rear audio not working though. I have never messed with one.

 

:cheers:

Posted

If no fuses are blown and you are not getting sound, then it sounds like wire is exposed somewhere that is causing the fronts to ground out. I would check all the wiring, making sure that nothing was crossed. Also check to makesure there is not any exposed wire that could be causing a ground.

Posted

Guy's, none of the speakers are working period. Only the subs. I have a '04 w/ bose and XM. Also, the chimes again have quit working and rear audio wont even turn on. So, it would have to be a fuse, right? :cheers:

Posted
Guy's, none of the speakers are working period. Only the subs. I have a '04 w/ bose and XM. Also, the chimes again have quit working and rear audio wont even turn on. So, it would have to be a fuse, right? :cheers:

That has to be a fuse. Did you check the underhood fuse box too?

Posted

Yeah, the radio and radio amp specifically. I check most of them. This has got me just puzzled. The bose amp couldnt have fried could it? Surely I would have known. This sucks!!! :cheers::mad::mad:

Posted

Maybe, maybe not....I didn't know it was Bose.

 

Doesn't Bose have individual amps for each speaker? I know that they did in pre-03 trucks. This makes upgrades quite difficult. Especially when you consider that they match the amp to the speaker, and when you put the rears on the front channels....Well...Yeah, you might have blown a fuse. And I don't know how to work around Bose wiring either, so I'll drop out on this one. :mad: Sorry. :cheers:

Posted

I don’t understand why you would want to move your rear speakers to the front channel?? I would think that all you would want to do is add a sub off the rear channel meaning doing a low level line converter (giving you RCA's for the amps off the rear channel from the head) and having your rear speakers running in parallel. Not changing the original configuration of the doors but only adding a sub...

 

Matt

 

PS I am not a 100% sure but I have heard that the Boise system head is passive so I am not sure how the converter would work but my initial thoughts is that it would still work the same as a amplified head just that you would want to make sure you had the converters with the adjustable outputs.

Posted

Guy's, you are forgetting that I changed the FM modulator to the front because of the rear audio controls. It cuts off the rear speakers when activated. So, all I wanted is to move it to the front. Nobody knows what the hell is wrong with this truck? :cheers:

Guest 007FL
Posted

If your subs are working the signal out of the head is active. If your door speakers are not working either the signal into the amp may be too low or your amp is blown. (my guess)

 

Try this, disconnect your subs,,,does that help? If so, leave them off until you get the proper interface for adding them to the system. Remember, Bose speakers are not standard 4 ohm impedance.

 

Two, remove your improvised wiring of the rear speakers. do the fronts work now? If you wired the fronts and rears in parallel when you moved them you may have fried the amp. The resulting impedance would be half and the current twice as much (smoke). If you wired them in series the result would be MUCH lower volume.

 

Let's hope you didn't fry the amp. I'd recommend you return all wiring to the factory design. I know it dumps the rear speakers when the rear audio center is active but its supposed to. That way the rear passengers can listen to their headphones without raising the volume too far.

 

Good luck.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The Bose amp is in the bottom of the center console. The factory sub is in the front of the console facing forward. The thunderform signal must have been taken from between the radio and the amp. So the amp must be dead.

Posted

Do you have the original head unit in the truck, or did you replace it? What type of original head unit did you have? The reason i ask is you said you lost your door chimes. In a 6 disk head unit (UC6), the door chimes are generated from inside the head unit itself. If you replaced the head unit, you will need a module that will retain your chimes. In a UM8/Y91 style luxury BOSE system your chimes are generated by the amplifier not the head unit. Maybe some details about your system would help us to figure this out. Did you replace the factory AMP? or just add an extra AMP?

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