Broken header bolt

elgineddie · May 6, 2004

Hey there friends,

I was changing the oil on my Burban today and noticed the rearmost bolt head broken off of the left exhaust manifold. I've been thinking of replacing the manifolds with some JBA headers and this could be the ticket! (I have to offer a reason to the wife for purchases over $300!).

But before I dig in, what about that broken bolt? I figure I have about 3/8" of the bolt remaining to work with and I doubt it will just unscrew with my fingertips.

Any help offered would help me a bunch!

Thanks!

Ben · May 6, 2004

Hopefully still enough sticking out inside the manifold flange, so when removed can get vice grip on it or finger tight...

BUT before doing that, spray liquid wrench on it several times over several hours, then let soak over nite.

covvy · May 6, 2004

I've repaired a few that had this same cituation and as long as the bolt broke itself (not someone else turning it the wrong way) it should come out without much effort. If it will not just tread out then file some small flat sides on it and grab it with smaller vice grips (real ones not any cheap ones or it will slip) and carefully tread it out. If still no luck well then this leads to drilling and tapping but lets hope it isn't required. Good Luck.

elgineddie · May 6, 2004

Thanks guys,

I was online late last night and found another idea. If there is 3/8" of the offending bolt remaining, I can thread on a nut and tack weld it in place... basically creating a new bolt!

I think I'll just have to order the headers and those awesome Stage 8 locking bolts and get movin.

Thanks again!

slaterx2 · May 6, 2004

Use an easy out maybe

http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/

http://www.nationalonlinesales.com/show_Pr...duct.asp?ID=373

AZ-Z71 · May 6, 2004

Let me tell you those bolts are a BIT** to get out. Had one on the drivers side , the very first one towards the front break. One day I was looking around and I noticed it. Mine was sheared flush. Tried and easy out but that actually broke inside the bolt, even after soaking it with a penetrator. Took it to a muffler shop and they couldn't get it out. To make matters worse, the header leaked real bad after they got done with it.

Anyway, it ended up that the head had to come off and the bolt machined out of it. If you do the work yourself the machining was only around $100. To remove the head, new gaskets, new head bolts, new manafold bolts and gasket, add about another $650 to the machining.

In my opinion, I'd leave it alone unless it is causing a problem.

elgineddie · May 7, 2004

Ya know, AZZ71, you may be right. I hate getting into something just to cause myself another giant headache in the process. If it starts to leak badly, I'l get on it but I may just wait.

The real bad news is this is the 2nd exhaust related breakage I've had: first the passenger side weld at the collector rusted and cracked ($40 repair) and now this bolt head pops off and I can clearly see it failed due to rust. So I stand a GREAT chance of breaking more either by removing them or waiting for the rust to finish it's work.

AARG!

racer · May 8, 2004

left handed drill bit

01 Bowtie · May 9, 2004

Hey guys When I owned my Peterbuilt, I had the same thing happen to me. Only I had ALOT more room to work on it. LOL Like everyone has said "Soak it good with a good penatrent" The first time I tried it would'nt budge. So I warmed up the engine. NOT real hot but warm, And it finely broke loose with an easy out. Wasn't really all that hard to do either. Hope that helps. And also hope the wife says yes to the headers! LOL

elgineddie · May 9, 2004

Oh, she'll say yes to the headers because I just spent the better part of today installing a new carpet in her Grand Cherokee. She loves it and it's quite the improvement over the old floor covering thanks to my kids literally destroying it with food and drink! I've never seen a more filthy carpet. Last year a gallon of friggin milk broke open and the smell never left. Anyway, the truly ironic part was when I was unbolting one of the seats for removal, I SNAPPED A BOLT! I literally sat back and laughed. Then I spent an hour working it clear.

I am sure your rig had plenty of room to work with! Like a few feet! I am somewhat lucky with a 3" body lift that's given me lots more space to work on the engine from the underside.

Thanks!

AZ-Z71 · May 12, 2004

Have the 3" body lift as well but it is still very tight with the drill and all. Plus you have to make sure to drill the hole straight through the center of the stud or it will probably break the easy out for sure.

But the 3" body lift does help with plug removal!