Engine sitting in crate...shelf life?

[char]

I have a 2000 5.3L Silverado with 78K on it. Having no problems. But I have a chance to buy a take out 5.3L engine from a T-boned totaled 2000. It only has 32K on it, has been sitting in the guys backyard for quite awhile. It started fine, once we put a new battery in it. He wants $800.00 for the engine. I do not need it now, so how long could I store it without it needing overhauled if/when I do need it? Hope that all made sense. Thanks

[az'03Silverado]

I'd say that if you prep it right it will last quite a while without needing overhaul. Drain the oil and make sure the water jackets are good and drained. Plug all of the holes and keep it out of the elements and you should be good until you need it. If you can, store it inside and covered. When you get it out of the totaled truck (R.I.P.), take it down and power wash it, dry it, and get some engine block paint on it to preserve the rustable parts. A lot of the engine will be aluminum which is good from a corrosion standpoint. That's all I have. Anybody else?

[az'03Silverado]

P.S.-- That new engine sounds like a good find. Snatch it up quick!

[snoman]

I would not drain the oil but I would put fresh new oil in it and run it breiflly then "pickle" the engine and cylinders with a product made just for that (you can get it at a place that sell boat engine partsand accessories) and spray some in each cylinder through spark plug holes and crank it over a bit to distribute it and reinstall plugs loosely. Drain water from block and plug holes and it can sit for several years without harm in a fairly stable environment like a garage or such. I have done this several times.

[chris_kucia]

In my experience, a lot of moisture can get in via the exhaust manifolds (if they are left on). Seems like bare cast iron is a magnet for moisture.

 

Personally, I'd take them off.

 

Also, I would take the valve covers off and remove or loosen the rockers. This does two things - all the valves will be closed so no moisture can get into the cylinders and all the valvesprings will be equally tensioned so over time they won't "set" at different rates. Also, with the valves closed, the springs are at their least-compressed position, which will prolong their life.

 

I'd also fill the cylinders with oil and then put the plugs in loosely. Probably fill the intake with oil, or at least try to get some oil mist down there - its a lot easier to remove oil than corrosion.

 

However, I wouldn't plan on just restarting the engine after storage - I'd want to pull the heads and intake and get a good look inside so i would store it with the expectation that that is what I would be doing eventually.

 

Also, if the engine was attached to a trans, I'd separate them and pull the converter so it isn't sitting on the input or output shaft seals over time.

[char]

Thanks for all the help. I was really wondering whether to even get it, but I will now. I will perform all your ideas and tuck it away in the corner of the garage. The guy's wife will be happy to get it out of the yard...once he sells the engine he is junking the rest of the truck.

[snoman]

In my experience, a lot of moisture can get in via the exhaust manifolds (if they are left on). Seems like bare cast iron is a magnet for moisture.

 

Personally, I'd take them off.

 

Also, I would take the valve covers off and remove or loosen the rockers. This does two things - all the valves will be closed so no moisture can get into the cylinders and all the valvesprings will be equally tensioned so over time they won't "set" at different rates. Also, with the valves closed, the springs are at their least-compressed position, which will prolong their life.

 

I'd also fill the cylinders with oil and then put the plugs in loosely. Probably fill the intake with oil, or at least try to get some oil mist down there - its a lot easier to remove oil than corrosion.

 

However, I wouldn't plan on just restarting the engine after storage - I'd want to pull the heads and intake and get a good look inside so i would store it with the expectation that that is what I would be doing eventually.

 

Also, if the engine was attached to a trans, I'd separate them and pull the converter so it isn't sitting on the input or output shaft seals over time.

I would not remove all of that stuff and I would use the product I mentioned to fog engine and cylinders as it was designed for that and goes in as a oil foam and is low ash when it burns when it is fired up. There is no need to fill cylinder with oil as it is a mees to get out and can cause rod damage from lack of compressiblity if not fully remove properly nor would I unload rockers. You can if you want every 3 to 6 months take breaker bar crank shaft and twist engine over about 90 degrees to change valve loading if you want but we are not talking a 30 year storage here so no need to unload them all. The less yo disturb the engines internals, the better. Do what I stated earlier and you are good for 4 to 5 years no sweat which after such time you might re "fog" engine if you plan for it to sit for another several years.