Jump to content

Catalytic removing or gutting


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone removed or "mod'ed" the catalytic converters on their trucks?

 

After looking at my exhaust I see that it may be posible.

 

The questions that poped up is what will the computer do? Since there is a O2 sensor before and after.

 

I understand the enviorment and legal concerns....

 

If anyone tried this, did torque, power, or MPG change?

Posted

It'll probably be opening the back end up too much and you'll lose low end performance.I'd also imagine that it would cause the post cat O2 sensor to throw some codes.

 

I don't see where it would be overly beneficial to gut it considering the above facts plus keep in mind that it is illegal.If you want to try and gain performance,try a hi flow cat though I doubt you'd notice much of a gain from that either.

Posted
I'd also imagine that it would cause the post cat O2 sensor to throw some codes.

Yes,It will more than likely set some DTC's because the O2 sensors need to see a certain amount of backpressure and if you "gut" the converter it will definetly change the backpressure,we've seen it here at the dealership a couple of times and believe me you don't want to have to buy a new converter,lotsa' $$$$$!

Posted

Hi, don't remove your cat or gut it. Yes besides the fact of tampering is a federal law, you will maybe only see 1 or 2 hp difference. The new 3-way catalyst design is very efficent in flowing exhaust gases and cleaning up "dirty" engines that it will be more trouble than its worth. The only benifit I could see is having a badass sounding truck :thumbs:

 

O2 sensors do not read back pressure in the exhaust. Yes it will change the amount of backpressure by taking out the cat but thats another thing. The way the O2 sensor works is that power is sent to the sensor and once they are heated up the amount oxygen that flows by it will change the resistance in the head of it. This information is sent back to the PCM via a AC signal where the computer can then make changes to the A/F ratio. Either the more or less voltage seen by the PCM will deturmine pulse width of the injectors to achieve that desired 14.7:1 A/F ratio.

Posted

I removed the kats from my obs 3500 454/4L80E, without throwing any DTCs, however, it should be noted that my truck has NO o2 sensors after the cats, only the 1 on each manifold.

 

You will loose a little off of the low end, unless you are towing heavy loads, you won't notice the difference. I'm doing some head work and a moderate cam, so for me, backpressure is less of a consideration, than If you intend the keep the internals stock.

 

Hope this helps.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,738
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Mistycool
    Newest Member
    Mistycool
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,729 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I am having similar issues.. 08, 4.8L granted I did had a fender bender and minor damage up front passenger side but I don’t think it had anything to do with it.. I had the high and low pressure checked and my fan for my radiator keeps coming on.. replaced the pressure switch and don’t want to keep throwing parts at it. I did have some minor problems here and there like on long road trips sometimes the ac would get a little warm and then on the highway as soon as I give it a little gas or get a little heavier on the petal it started running cooler. Never had an issue with the ac besides the here and there.. but I also started having issues when I fuel up now it takes a bit to start ( super embarrassing) it runs fine and once started ( only happens after fueling up) starts fine any other time. Could they be related?
    • Spent a small fortune on fuel this weekend.   $6.69 diesel, 18 gallons of that. $6.99 92-octane ethanol free, 10 gallons of that for yard machines $5.59 87-octane for one of the cars, 11 gallons.   $250+ and I didn't even get a tug.   Hormuz ain't Hormuzin again, did not see that coming...LOL
    • Appreciate the advice. I've watched multiple videos. Most showing the most complex for those that have a center console, to one that showed maybe 2 pieces of trim being removed, like 6 screws, pulling back the screen and switch assembly, and installing the inline module. And this was a new/newer Silverado. That didn't look too bad. All the others show alot of trim pieces that need to be removed. I've broken those kind of tabs/clips on my C8 Corvette trying to get to the battery, and that was a lot less clips than what I think is involved here after watching multiple videos and looking at my dash today. I have one on the way. Called a reputable stereo place about installing it and got a "minimum" price of $175. Ouch! Looking forward to seeing what the instructions have to say.
    • Hard to say what the issue might be. Anything from the ability to cool the AC condenser up front, to blend door issues in the HVAC unit, to refrigerant charge, to compressor issues or issues in the lines.   Report back what the techs find on the 29th.   GM has service publications which list acceptable vent temperatures and AC pressures at given ambient temps and humidity. They probably won't touch the system if it's operating within those ranges.   I'm also surprised to hear your 2024 with the L8T is still using R134a? I was pretty sure the HD's had switched to the new refrigerant around 2020.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...