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Both of my fogs burned out - at the same time?


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Posted

At first, I thought I blew a fuse, as I noticed last night that both fogs weren't lit. I then noticed that the fog switch was lit, showing them as ON. Is there a fuse that the fogs go through that doesn't affect the switch itself, or is it possible that they both blew out at the same time, or within a few minutes of each other? Or could something else be at work here?

 

Anyone else had this problem? This is a 2002 Tahoe Z71 (round lenses). No blown bulbs to date, but it just seems odd to go at the same time. And I didn't notice them on at all yesterday, so I didn't *see* them actually stop working, I just noticed they weren't.

 

And one more question...I was looking up replacement bulbs, and I read all the threads on it here...is the difference between say a Sylvania 880 and an 880ST just that the ST signfies the SilverStar line?

 

thanks

Posted

i wouldnt say that it is too uncommon for them both to burn out within a short time of each other - afterall they get the exact same use.

if i get a burnt out bulb on the truck, i buy a replacemtnet for the other side as well right away cause i figure it isnt far behind...

Posted

While we are on the topic of Fog lights...I know this might have been touched before, but I cant seem to find anything....

 

Is there a way/kit/product that will allow the fog lights to stay on when the High Beams are used? I am aware of the harness that keeps the low beams on while the highs are in use (which my truck either already has, or its factory, I dont really know) but I would like to blind my oncoming traffic a little bit more. :tear:

Thanks for the help

 

-Jason

Posted

I don't see why the same "diode" type setup used for the 4 headlights on conversion couldn't be implemented to keep the fogs on as well. I don't have the picture for the under the hood version but if you search I am sure you'll find it. Here is a previous post I copied for the under dash version by firetiger:

 

I did it this way using the wires on the BCM so I didn't have to disassemble the underhood electrical center:

 

Keep in mind this is on a 2003 GMC - other years may be different, even 2003 chevrolet may be differant although I would think it would be the same. For all lights on with high beams:

 

The bcm is under the steering column, I had to remove the dash panel to get to it. There are 3 larger 24 or so pin connectors on it. The one I am referring to is the 24 pin on the left side.

 

This connector has 2 rows of 12 pins, one above the other. There are pin numbers associated with them but they were hard to read so I'll explain it like this:

 

Top row: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 -we'll call T

 

Bottom row: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 -we'll call B

 

T1 is black-white and is High beam control- tap into this and run to a spst (2 terminal) switch, if you are going to use a switch to disable this mod. On the other side of the switch solder 3 diodes with the band ends towards the switch. I used 1n4005 diodes. Now for each of the other ends of the diodes you will solder a short length of wire on and tap into these leads as follows:

 

T4- is green black and is DRL control

 

B4- is pink and is low beam control

 

B5- green white and is fog lamp control

 

When you're done make sure to insulate each of these ends of the diodes and wires from each other and everything else. Start the truck,turn the headlights on if it's not dark, and with you're new switch off everything should work as before, or as normal. Turn the switch on and with you're high low beam lever in the low position you're low beams and fog lamps should work as normal. Flip to high beam and everything should come on. All we're really doing here is operating the relays under the hood that turn these lamps on normally. There should be no problem with power as they are still getting power the factory way. My only concern is the grounds on the headlamps, I'm hoping they don't run too warm running both lamps at once, and I don't know if both lamps are grounded together or if they have individual grounds. I may have to upgrade the grounds if they give trouble. Hope this is somewhat understandable!

 

Further note- if you are testing with the ignition switch off the DRLs will not come on at all, that's why I said start you're truck in the testing. If you don't want to install a switch to bypass this mod just connect the band ends of the diodes directly to the T1 black white wire.

 

This post has been edited by Firetiger(MN) on Feb 10 2004, 07:58 PM

 

 

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2003 Lt. Pewter Metallic 2500HD LS, 4x4, ext. cab, SB

Duramax/Allison

265/75 Bridgestone REVO's

Juice+Attitude/Quadzilla Stealth/Isspro Gauges

Bilsteins, Access Cover, Pendaliner

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