Keeping Factory Steering Wheel Controls

rcj_houston · November 30, 2004

Is it possible to purchase an aftermarket stereo with CD player that will work with my factory steering wheel controls?

I am planning of replacing the factory unit, but would feel better not thinking that I wasted $325 on the steering wheel stereo controls.

Actually...I would prefer to keep the factory radio, but the volume curve is WEIRD!! It gets to half volume, and doesn't get any higher. Once you hit half, no matter even if you turn the volume to 100%, it does not get any higher.

Volume Curve:

0%-----------(half volume 50%)----Then----> flat line @ 52% or so

All opinions are welcome... I was planning on trying this

http://www.linkmeup.com/products.htm

which was recommended by JamesF here

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...ndpost&p=257394

in a different post, but was are talking around $160 or so. I might as well replace the factory head unit for that price. I assume the factory Bose head unit does not produce the 4 volts input needed using my simple line converters...

Halen5150 · December 2, 2004

I know you want to keep your wheel controls, but I would get an aftermarket stereo with remote. That class D amp you bought will do so much better with a new head unit. Get rid of that single voice coil sony 12" sub, and get two DVC 12" subs so that you're able to have a 1 ohm load. Class D amps are made for 1-ohm loads.

Here are some headunit choices that have good features and aren't too pricey:

As for subs:

These subs are all around the same price range. I know you weren't asking for subs here, but you've been asking at work about getting subs, so I thought I'd let you know of some good sounding, yet reasonably priced subs. Forget the steering wheel controls, man. Don't let something like that hold the rest of your stereo system back. Just my two cents.

jpendlum · December 2, 2004

For the steering wheel controls, look at the PAC interface, part number: SWI-X

It basically turns your steering wheel controls into another remote. Really nice.

aa21830 · December 4, 2004

Try this, too:

Soundgate steering wheel control

rcj_houston · December 7, 2004

Thanx for the replys all

I will be looking into a new head unit. I think i am thuroughly convinced this is the way to go. I have taken out the Class D amp for now and gone back to my 600 watt Kenwood, simply because it will actually push my subuntil i get a new head unit. Sorry for the late response, I have been very busy lately at work. Cheers to all and I will definitely check into the control unit for using my steering wheel controls. Also, I think I am going to purchase a couple of 15" subs that I can bridge down to 2 ohms. I am not comfortable with 1 ohm loads. Things tend to get hot...

Once again, cheers to all and have a great Christmas!

PS:Cheers to you Halen 5150 (besides a great CD) I appreciate the extra effort as I know that took some time...

*Secretly wonders how you know I was asking at work....huh huh tell me man....huh huh

Halen5150 · December 7, 2004

I'm telling you man, Class D amps will play all day long without getting hot. They're made for 1-ohm loads. And you know who I am...you referred me to this message board!

Black03Gmc · December 10, 2004

RCJ, When looking for a headunit, make sure you pick one that has a remote control. For the Steering wheel interfaces to work, the new unit must use a remote. Before you get subs, check your amp's specs, some D class amps need 1 ohm, and some need 2 ohm. If yours does need a 1 ohm load and you run 2, it will not hit. Lastly, you can keep your stock deck and use the cheap inverters. Buy a external electronic crossover that has high volt outputs. I have a stock deck running my system, and before the crossover it didnt sound too great. I added an Autotek 2 way with 7 volts out and now it rocks. Hope this helps...

DS