Jump to content

Retrofitting a 2004 HU into a 2000


Slider

Recommended Posts

Posted

OK, OK, OK, before I get thrashed severely, I am not crazy, but I have a long-term project I want to get some help on. I bought a 6-CD /XM Ready HU out of a 2004 Suburban and am dead serious about putting it into my 2000 Suburban. I have also purchased the wiring harnesses to fit the back of the 04 unit, and have bought the replacement 04 bezel for the dash panel (It does snap into place, but obviously the HVAC and existing stereo do not line up due to the DIN2 vs. DIN 1.5 differences.....will be visiting the Chevy dealer soon to buy the 04 mounting box). My question deals with the databus on the 04 vs. the 00 vehicle, especially regarding the capability of reading/dumping the VIN into the 04 radio so it will release the factory lock. Any databus-smart folks out there who can help? I would go so far as to swap out the entire dash/wiring harness if necessary (it is cheaper than buying a new vehicle). Please keep the village idiot jokes to a minimum and try to be helpful. Thanks! java script:emoticon(':dupe:')

smilie

Posted
OK, OK, OK, before I get thrashed severely, I am not crazy, but I have a long-term project I want to get some help on.  I bought a 6-CD /XM Ready HU out of a 2004 Suburban and am dead serious about putting it into my 2000 Suburban.  I have also purchased the wiring harnesses to fit the back of the 04 unit, and have bought the replacement 04 bezel for the dash panel (It does snap into place, but obviously the HVAC and existing stereo do not line up due to the DIN2 vs. DIN 1.5 differences.....will be visiting the Chevy dealer soon to buy the 04 mounting box).  My question deals with the databus on the 04 vs. the 00 vehicle, especially regarding the capability of reading/dumping the VIN into the 04 radio so it will release the factory lock.  Any databus-smart folks out there who can help?  I would go so far as to swap out the entire dash/wiring harness if necessary (it is cheaper than buying a new vehicle).  Please keep the village idiot jokes to a minimum and try to be helpful.  Thanks! java script:emoticon(':dupe:')

smilie

 

 

 

No flame intended, but why would you want to do this? How much $ do you have invested so far?

 

From my experience, the 03 and up databusses are totally different than the 02 and below, and the 02 and below stock radios weren't coded with the VIN. So I don't think it's gonna work, unless you swap the BCM.

 

I understand the want/need for stock appearance, but there's cost/headache factor of doing it.

 

Just my $0.02.

Posted

Then after the BCM, the other modules. Then after the modules, the devices they control. Then after those devices, the harnessing - all of it, most likeley. Oh, and those devices may include engine & transmission sensors & controls, manifolds & Valve bodies, etc. Did I mention the brake system too?

 

Sorry to carry on, but you see, the data word isn't compatable. It won't communicate with the BCM to get the VIN, just to begin with, so you would have to get past the theftlock somehow. Then any factory type accessory would have to be compatable with it and the vehicle. The chop-off was the end of the 2002 MY. Then the world changed for the GM truck's wiring. It'll happen again, likely in 06 with the GM-Lan (CAN Bus), however some items may remain class II for a few years.

 

Bummer... :jester:

 

Edit: Added a few words to clarify a statement.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...