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Power locks no worky!!!

CanadianHD

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CanadianHD Enthusiast

CanadianHD

Posted
Posted

Hey all, does anyone know how to remove the power actuator from the rear door (2000 crew cab) ? Do you have to drill out the rivets that hold the mount to the door? Any help would be appreciated. My power locks dont work every time and its getting frustrating. :D

CanadianHD Enthusiast

CanadianHD

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nobody has any advice on how to get the door lock actuators out? Need some help here. I have removed 2 screws that hold the actuator to the mounting tab but it still does not want to come out.

GM-Tech Senior Enthusiast

GM-Tech

Posted
Posted

Here's the official procedure from our Service Information. Sorry the pictures don't carry over...

 

------------------------------

 

Lock Actuator Replacement - Rear Door

 

Removal Procedure

Raise the window.

Remove the door trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Side Rear Door .

Remove the water deflector. Refer to Water Deflector Replacement - Rear Door .

 

Disconnect the inside door lock rod from the handle retainer clip.

 

Disconnect the manual door lock rod from the door retainer clips.

 

Remove the rubber plug in order to disengage the outside handle rod retainer.

 

Disconnect the cylinder lock rod (1).

Remove the bolts (2) which retain the door lock actuator to the door.

Remove the door lock actuator and control rods as an assembly.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the door lock actuator, if equipped.

Remove the control rods as necessary.

Installation Procedure

Install the control rods to the assembly.

Connect the electrical connectors to the door lock actuator, if equipped.

Install the door lock actuator to the door.

Connect the outside door handle control rod.

Connect the cylinder lock rod.

 

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install the bolts which retain the door lock actuator to the door.

 

Tighten

Tighten the screws to 9 N·m (80 lb in).

 

Connect the manual door lock to the door retainer clips.

 

Connect the inside door handle control rod to the lock assembly.

 

Connect the inside door lock rod to the handle retainer clip.

Install the water deflector. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Side Rear Door or Water Deflector Replacement - Rear Door .

Install the door trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Side Rear Door .

Inspect the operation of all the related components.

CanadianHD Enthusiast

CanadianHD

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks gmtech, that will help me alot. Looks like I need to remove more door guts. :D

 

 

Edit: I removed the power lock motor and can not find any visible problems. The problem is that when I lock or unlock the doors the 2 rear door locks do not always work. In fact if you lock and unlock the doors over and over, the rears stop moving all together, yet the fronts work fine. Any suggestions???

71GMC_3/4T Enthusiast

71GMC_3/4T

Posted
Posted

I'd wonder if there was a self resetting thermal breaker for either one or both of the back doors. I have no idea where this might be located, but maybe GM-Tech does.

I've had solenoid coils heat up and go open, only to work again when they cool down, but I seriously doubt that's what's going on here since both of them quit at the same time.

Maybe the rear doors are on a separate circuit or relay since they wouldn't be on a regular or extended cab. If you find a relay, try swapping it with the one for the front doors or something else and see if you can "move" the problem.

Can you get a test light or a voltmeter across the door lock coil to see if it's still getting voltage when it quits?

Hopefully my manuals show up soon so I can be more informed on fixing problems like this.

Good Luck CanadianHD, hope you find it and it's an easy fix...

GM-Tech Senior Enthusiast

GM-Tech

Posted
Posted
I'd wonder if there was a self resetting thermal breaker for either one or both of the back doors. 

 

 

 

Nothing seperate for the back doors, other than circuit breakers built within the actuators themselves.

catiaeng Enthusiast

catiaeng

Posted
Posted

For the past week I have experienced a similar problem, however with only one door. (also the door I mainly use to get stuff in/out of the back seat) It locks, but not unlocks. My truck is under warranty and I am calling the dealer today, I will post what happens /fix on my truck.

 

BJ

CanadianHD Enthusiast

CanadianHD

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Catiaeng, I've done a little more experimenting and it seems to be more prominent with the driver's rear door. I'd be very interested to hear what your dealer has to say.

catiaeng Enthusiast

catiaeng

Posted
Posted

My truck is going in wendesday. I actually have the problem on my drivers rear. I need to have my drivers lock changed, which I called on two weeks ago, it doesn't turn at all and it's not frozen. Dealer is looking into the rear while it's in. I will know wendesday what is happening with the drivers rear door.

 

BJ

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