Jump to content

New experiment with air filter box


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm trying a little something with the stock air filter box.  I've heard of a few people drilling holes and stuff to let more air in but I didn't want to go that far.  What I did was remove the small tube on the lower part of the housing that draws air in from the fender.  The foam is still there that seals it up to the fender.  The tube just snaps out.  The second thing was I removed the upper tube that leads to the fender as well.  If you look at it, it has a fairly large opening on the housing side but norrows down a good bit where it meets the fender.  I stuffed a piece of foam up in the back side of the opening in the fender to keep the incoming air from just flowing past the opening for the air filter and through the fender.  My idea is it will stop the air from going on into the fender and let more get pulled into the air filter.  Plus the larger opening in the side of the air filter housing will let more air in as well.  I know cooler air is better and this will be drawing a little air from under the hood, but I just wanted to try it out.  I may get a K&N FIPK sometime, so basically I just did this to have some thing to do cause I was board.  LOL   I'll give it a little while and see how it works and post some results, if any.

Posted

Sounds like a good idea, it just might work. I think about these little free mods myself sometimes. I was thinking about the FIPK myself but have heard about people getting grit/oil residue inside there theottle bodies so for now I am unsure. Keep us posted.

Posted
Quote: from MountaineerTom 99Z71 on 9:23 pm on May 26, 2001

I'll give it a little while and see how it works and post some results, if any.

 

Hello

You Get The Results?

Posted

Well, I've only driven about 30 miles with it so far.  As far as the "seat-of-the-pants meter", I can't really tell.  But I put my hand near the big opening in the air filter housing and reved the truck up by hand at the throttle body, and I could definately feel alot of air being sucked in.  The computer might still need more time to "learn" the change.  Still not sure if it's really making that much of a difference.

I borrowed Shaner's picture from the Tech Center to show which parts I removed in case anyone is not sure what I was refering to.  The two pieces are in the yellow box.  The sencond part is the tube on the inside of the box.  It just snaps out.  By the way, both pieces can be reinstalled easily.

stock_airbox.jpg

(Edited by MountaineerTom 99Z71 at 11:51 am on May 30, 2001)

Posted

Well, I put the pieces back on today.  The other day I got in some mud and somewhat deep water while playing around and noticed that some mud/sand/water splashed into the box.  Not very much, but more than I wanted.  

Kind of makes me wonder about getting the K&N FIPK kit now.  I don't regularly get into the mud and stuff I was in so I know it wouldn't be like that all the time.  Anyway, just passing on the info.

Posted

I was wondering about water intrusion.  It seems that the recent build Duramax trucks are coming from the factory with that section that goes from the airbox to the fender removed.  Seems some guys are getting water in their box with that setup too.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...