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1995 gmc sonoma valve ISSUES:(


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Posted

I wold like to start by saying, thanks all for your help!!

 

My problem is fairly simpl, or so i think, Me and a friend changed my vlalve seals in my sonoma (v6 4.3l) because there was a *little* bit of smoke when it was first started....

 

 

now to prepare for this adventure i had bought the repair manual for that make and model and year...Which has a sort of rough draft idea of how to remove and install parts into your truck. So we followed everything the book told us to do, step by step. And the finished result was a flooded nightmare :wtf: .

 

I was wondering if this has anything to do with how TIGHT we have tightened the rocker arms down over the valves or is it possibly a o-ring run amock.. as when the news ones were put on they were a very loose fit.

 

IF ANYONE has any tips comments or ideas.. please respond to this!!!

 

thanks all

chris

Posted

There is no rocker arm or valve lash adjustment on that engine. You simply tighten the rocker arm nut to 20 lb. ft. and you're done. You really cannot overtighten them to the point of holding the valves open. The pivot ball for the rocker arm would probably split before that happened.

Posted
How did you adjust your rocker arms? Explain to me how you went about it. They could be too tight keeping the valves open.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

well as ion the post right after yours the manual says that 20 in lb torque is required... so thats what we did.. but it smells heavily of gas(flooding). so that means a valve is not openming or closing properly?(i think so too...) so what should i check to see if a valve is not opening or closing correctly. In my opinion i need to get valve #1 TDC(top dead center) and readjust the vlaves that way....

any clues???

Posted
How did you adjust your rocker arms? Explain to me how you went about it. They could be too tight keeping the valves open.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

well as ion the post right after yours the manual says that 20 in lb torque is required... so thats what we did.. but it smells heavily of gas(flooding). so that means a valve is not openming or closing properly?(i think so too...) so what should i check to see if a valve is not opening or closing correctly. In my opinion i need to get valve #1 TDC(top dead center) and readjust the vlaves that way....

any clues???

Posted
There is no rocker arm or valve lash adjustment on that engine.  You simply tighten the rocker arm nut to 20 lb. ft. and you're done.  You really cannot overtighten them to the point of holding the valves open.  The pivot ball for the rocker arm would probably split before that happened.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

as i said in the earlier response what i did and what i think is wrong... I will simpkly torque it down now to 20 in lbs..... god i hope that works.. as it shiould be a very simple thing to adjust valves heh.... i mean the huge pain in the butt is over( juast getting to the d**n valves...:cheers:)..

 

thanks for your help

Posted
as i said in the earlier response what i did and what i think is wrong... I will simpkly torque it down now to 20 in lbs.....

 

 

 

 

It's not 20 INCH pounds. It's 20 FOOT pounds. But even 20 inch pounds would not cause a problem right off. Sure, the rockers may loosen on their own in time, but it won't make it run rich.

 

Smelling heavily of gas is not because a valve is not opening/closing properly. Those engines are known for the fuel pressure regulator leaking and/or the internal fuel lines. Now it sure would be a coincidence that this just happened when you did the valve seals, but anything is possible.

Posted
as i said in the earlier response what i did and what i think is wrong... I will simpkly torque it down now to 20 in lbs.....

 

 

 

 

It's not 20 INCH pounds. It's 20 FOOT pounds. But even 20 inch pounds would not cause a problem right off. Sure, the rockers may loosen on their own in time, but it won't make it run rich.

 

Smelling heavily of gas is not because a valve is not opening/closing properly. Those engines are known for the fuel pressure regulator leaking and/or the internal fuel lines. Now it sure would be a coincidence that this just happened when you did the valve seals, but anything is possible.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HI again, thanks again for replying to my questions.

 

Specificly... we have taken the valve springs offe the block again and notice that the o-rings have been pushed below the bottom ring. After the first time we resealed it, we believed the orings were supposed to go on after the spring...sooooo. Possibly this could have been our problem?

 

SInce you are probably asleep we will try this and hope it works.. 20 FOOT pounds will be tried now... as the d**m BOOK says that its ( 20 ) and no notation after thew 20 (HEH)... well enough rambling.. thanks again please do respond..:wtf:

 

 

chris

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