Jump to content

I need opinions please


Cool Zr2

Which do you like  

24 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Posted

I bought this truck below to do a LS1 conversion with a 6 speed. I have been looking around and have noticed that they are quite spendy and have second thoughts.

 

Please choose what you think would be a head turner and a sweet ride. All engines will be mated to a T-56 6 speed. What motor would you pick?

 

1108778134_pauls_s_10_4.jpg

Posted
if the LS1 is too pricey, how about the 350?

 

 

 

 

Well, the thing is, is that I already did that, but, it is the cheapest. I don't want to repeat myself and all the other engines have more power.

Posted
Oh, I see. :withstupid:

 

My secondary choice is the 6.0, how about that one? :cheers:

 

 

 

 

I wouldn't mind that at all, but what do those get for mileage? The Ls1 is suppose to get like 26 in 6th gear.

Posted

LT1 would get my vote.

 

Cheap enough compared to the LS1 and pleanty of support to do the swap with mounts and harnesses plus the engine cost is down with the popularity of the LS1.

 

I assisted in an LT1 swap into a first gen S10 and it's definitely enough pop to open your eyes, plus the eyse of those around you.

Posted

I know a guy at work who builds race engines. He has alot of guys that do great work on engines. I think it would be alot cheaper to build up your 350 than to get an LS1. On top of that you probably will produce the same or a bit less than an LS1. I know you want an LS1 but names don't matter. it's numbers. What do you think?

Posted
I know a guy at work who builds race engines. He has alot of guys that do great work on engines. I think it would be alot cheaper to build up your 350 than to get an LS1. On top of that you probably will produce the same or a bit less than an LS1. I know you want an LS1 but names don't matter. it's numbers. What do you think?

 

 

 

 

Well, I don't want to fart around with the ZR2's powerplant. I could get a LT1 and have it worked, plus its still a vette motor. Like I've said I don't want to repeat myself with the vortec 350.

Posted

Your poll doesn't include a Big Block. If you want a challenge trust me. I put a 454/M20 in an '82. A lot of labor but it fit. It should be a breeze in a newer body and a 4.3L. I started with an Isuzu 4cyl.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Funny, when your spending mucho $$$$$$$ on doing an engine transplant (instead of just buying a truck that comes stock with a bigger engine) you wouldn't think that fuel economy would be one of your bigger concerns.

 

Dont get me wrong I think that the engine transplant idea is cool, it just seems totally contradictory to penny pinching fuel economy.

Posted

Money no object - LS1 (how I voted, based on the topic question). Easily the new favorite of most tuners (have a hobbiest that hops up cars in his spare time in my office that swears by the LS1).

 

Money is an object - probably the old faithful 5.7l / aka 350. This has to easily be the most common engine used by custom modders for the past 20 years or so. So it is most likely the most inexpensive to come by with a very large support base of parts available for doing things to it. Also if you want to put in into xxx vehicle, there's a good chance someone else somewhere has already been there, done that, so you won't have to learn from scratch on your own.

 

But I see that you really would rather NOT do that. I guess that leaves the LT1, or the Vortecs as choices. I know the LT1 was a 'vette engine, but other than that I don't know how easy it would be to come by or to fit into your truck. The 5.3l is probably extremely easy to find since GM seems to use it in practically every V8 powered application they make. If there was little difference in pricing I'd go for the 6.0l though, otherwise 5.3l all the way. Both make good horsepower, especially given their size. I was amazed that the smaller engine made so much better power than the one it replaced, at least in stock form. And it'll probably return pretty good mileage in an S-10 too, given that I can get anywhere from upper 16's to 19 with normal driving and over 20 with granpappyish behavior in my Silverado.

Posted

Are you doing a Supercharged/Turbo/Nitrous application? If so, I would strongly recommend going with an LT1 or 6.0L. The stresses on the bottom end associated with forced induction engines are pretty substantial and you will greatly benefit from an iron block in the long run.

 

If youre sticking to a naturally aspirated application, definately go with the LS1 engine and take advantage of the weight savings.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,948
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    zibzer2
    Newest Member
    zibzer2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 839 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...