Jump to content

That shudder Long bed


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok I searched and searched for an answer to the launch shudder on a 4 door long box.

Everything says get the one pc drive shaft. Well I cant because the 4 door long box. Dose not have a one pc shaft replacement.

 

I dont know the shudder is there unless I have the toy hauler on.

 

So I know someone is going to saywith the trailer on it changes the angle. But I do have air bags on to keep the truck level.

I do have a Rcd 6 inch lift but not jacked up to much. They installed the drop bracket for the carrier for the drive shaft.

If you look under the truck right now it looks straight. The two shafts are in line with each other.

Do the need some angle between them.

Should I take the drop bracket out. Considering i dont have the 6 inch lift jacked all the way up.

 

Also the truck has 61 thousand on it 2003 long bed 4 door hd diesel

And dont forget the bad ass edge programer.What a diference

 

Any help Please

Posted

I have the same truck w/o the 6" lift. I have ZERO shudder. Id look at the "not jacked up to much" 6"lift. 6" is enough that I could see it having an effect.

Posted

I'd guess the problem is in your carrier bearing... That is what the TSB is all about. You're correct when you say it doesn't apply to the longbed. That would be one heck of a long 1-piece drive shaft. With something like that under your truck, and the new angle it would have, I would be afraid of hitting it on something. That sucker would be hanging pretty low!!

 

I had my driveshaft replaced in my '01 ccsb for that TSB.

Posted

So I have the only long box 4 door with a 6 inch lift out there.

I feal pretty special.

 

Just kidding

 

Anyone else with this problem and a fix

Posted

I have the same truck with the same problem, when it gets warmer out there I am going to crawl under and try to figure out a solution. :cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I cured my shudder by lowering the carrier brg one inch. I have a SB CC with 2" blocks. The shudder wasn't noticable until I put H2's and the blocks. Some scrap iron, a couple bolts, and 15-20 minutes you might have a cure.

Posted

I had a '99 ECSB NBS that I lowered, it had a major shudder. After many unsuccessful trips to the place that lowered it, I took my truck to a body shop that does custom work and won many SEMA awards. They redid the crossmember, (I don't know if they raised or lowered it), but it did the trick. There are shims that you can also use to change the angle of the rear axle to keep "driveline wrap" (shudder), to a minimum, by making sure the u-joints are in line.

Whatever you do good luck, shudder sucks. :thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • I’m going off the instructions.
    • My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...