Jump to content

whats wrong w/stock tires?


Recommended Posts

Posted

i have 265/75/16 firestone on my Z-71. i have noticed a lot of advice about changing tires. why is that?

Posted

A lot of GM's, including mine, came with 245's that look a little small.  Bigger tires look better.  Some people want a different tread pattern for offroading, or for mud or snow or sand, etc.  As far as the Firestones, I'm sure you've seen all the media coverage of faulty tires allegedly leading to fatal car accidents over the last year, yes?  Reason enough for some.....

Posted
Quote: from THE BIGPUNN on 1:15 am on Aug. 6, 2001

i have 265/75/16 firestone on my Z-71. i have noticed a lot of advice about changing tires. why is that?

 

I don't know if you really looked at them but they are "p" rated tires.  The same type of tires you'd find on cars.  They put these low weight rated tires on the truck to help with the ride quality.

In my opinion, if you were to take your truck close to the GCVW you'd be taking a chance running these tires.

Posted

Its like dr jeckyl and my hyde

Unless you change tires you wont really understand what we are talking about.

The ride handling overall feel of the truck got better.  The firestones are very thin.  At 10K mine were wearing pretty wierd right down the center.  Had em checked out a few times pressure and everything else was fine.

The firestones to me werent worth Jack.  Wish i would have saved ome $$$ and got the cheapest ones.  

Only real regret

 

Posted

From my experience, factory tires are less than satisfactory, especially on 1500 series.  They are;

- Generally P class, as mentioned above

- Generally cheaper tires

- Generally optimized for smooth quiet test rides, not any sort of real world performance, handling, or longevity.

Not to say you can't live with them, but again, as stated above, you will never go back to factory tires after changing out to a good set of LT (light truck) rated tires.

 

ie: First aftermmarket purchase for my 96 K2500 6.5 pickup and my 99 K1500 Suburban were BFG All Terrain T/A's.  Great tire for my driving requirements, look, handle, last and feel the road better than factory on both trucks.  Pick a good tire for your truck, driving style, and roads travelled, and you will not regret the $$ spent.

Scott

Posted

The only thing I don't like about the stock tires are their tread pattern that is only suited to highway driving.  For my purposes a little more aggresive tread is better, something like a Goodyear Workhorse Extra Grip.  But you won't see me swapping tires until the stock ones are worn out, why let all those good miles left in that rubber go to waste?

Posted

I agree that for the most part it is to get rid of the "P" rated tires that have no purpose what so ever on a half ton truck IMO.  They just aren't safe for carrying loads.  The tires on the 2500's and up are better, but still not big enough, have enough load capacity, or aggresive enough for me.  I'd probably order the cheapest stock tires and put a 10,000 miles on them before getting some better treads though.

Posted

It's a lug thang.  If you can get over the whole life & death aspect of the Firestones, they're OK for tooling around town and cruising on the highway.  But...like everyone has mentioned, get them off-road (####, even on damp grass) or loaded down, and you'll see why you want to get rid of them.  I'm in the same boat, but like some of our on-line bretheren, I can't justify throwing away tires with lots of life on them, so I'm sticking with the Firestones till they're at least half gone.

Posted

The Firestones are just plain bad tires. All I can say is change them and you will see. The side wall strength while towing or during high wind really shows the true colors.

Posted

I had the 245's  made by Firestone on my truck also. The first thing did after I bought the truck was go to Sears a throw a set of 265 BFG AT TA KO's on the truck. I had a set if the old (pre KO's) AT TA's on my 98 and I loved them. You can't beat the three ply side wall for response and stiffness. I sold the old Firestone's to a guy for ?, just proir to the SUV scare. They were the Steeltex type not the Wilderness ones. I guess it's all a matter of personal preference. I like the way the BFG's perform and they look nice too.

  • 5 years later...
Posted

I believe all the negative info on the Firestones. I just finished changing a flat on my 2004 Suburban for the 3rd time since I bought it. The truck is not even 3 years old, has less than 35K and is driven very gently on paved roads only. I think the Firestone Wilderness LE is simply too weak for the job. Something to consider next time I buy a Chevy. :confused:

Posted

I slid off the road in the winter with my firestone steeltex AT crap. Got rid of them promptly after the truck got repaired for Michelin LTX M/S. Expensive, but they're the best.

Posted

Holy crap. Talk about resurrecting a butt-******* old thread. I think Firestone (as a whole) has learned it's lessons from all of the litigation. As far as factory tires, I had Goodyears on mine and I swear they were factory-seconds or something. I mean, they had 'Goodyear' on the side but they weren't the quality I expected. They only lasted 28,000 miles. Now, I'm running Michelin LT4's and it's like night and day.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...