Jump to content

Differential Cover


Recommended Posts

Posted

I would like to change the differential fluid in my wife's 2005 Yukon XL. It looks like the crossmember and sway bar are in the way of taking the cover off. It looks like it might clear if the rear of vehicle is raised. Does anybody know if the cover can be removed and replaced without unbolting, moving or removing the crossmember/sway bar ???

 

My old '88 GMC Suburban is a lot easier to work on than this new Yukon.

 

Also what is a good mileage for the first differential fluid change ? I have heard that an early change to get out any metal debris etc will extend the life of the differential considerably.

 

Also what is a good fluid to use ?

Posted

I always change my diff. fluid for the first time at 3,000 miles and then about every 15,000 miles after that.

As far as fluid goes I use the GM stuff only (part#89021677),but any good 75W-90 synthetic gear lube will be fine,DO NOT add any additives or friction modifiers,These rear ends in these trucks do not require them and I've seen some cases where guys added them and ruined there rear diffs!

As far as removing the crossmember/sway bar or not I cannot help you there as all of my trucks have been pickups and they don't have them.

Posted
I would like to change the differential fluid in my wife's 2005 Yukon XL.  It looks like the crossmember and sway bar are in the way of taking the cover off.  It looks like it might clear if the rear of vehicle is raised.  Does anybody know if the cover can be removed and replaced without unbolting, moving or removing the crossmember/sway bar ???

 

My old '88 GMC Suburban is a lot easier to work on than this new Yukon.

 

Also what is a good mileage for the first differential fluid change ?  I have heard that an early change to get out any metal debris etc will extend the life of the differential considerably.

 

Also what is a good fluid to use ?

 

 

 

 

 

There is no need to remove the cover fully. You only need to loosen the bolts enough to allow cover to break loose from seal and let the oil run out and there is enough clearance for that. I never take my cover "off" as I only loosen the bolts enough to drain then retighten them.

Posted

You do not need to remove the cover to drain & re-fill

 

there are plugs on the front side of the pumpkin taht you can use to drain

 

to make life easier in removing the cover, raise the rear of the vehicle and support on stands, lket the axle "hang" until the rear tires just touch the ground, this will allow the cover to drop below the rae sway bar etc.

 

It is a good idea to remove the rear cover on the first fluid change to check the magnet for metal particles and to check all of the teeth for proper breakin. After the first change you can go every 2 - 3 changes with only a fluid change.

 

If you tow or abuse your vehicle (off road fun) I would check (remove diff. covers) more Freq.

 

Redline makes a good synthetic fluid for the axle.

Posted

No drain plugs anymore on the 1500's (for the rear ends and tranny pans).They took them out sometime in the '01-'02 model year,another "cost saving" feature from GM!

I think the HD's still have them.

Posted
No drain plugs anymore on the 1500's (for the rear ends and tranny pans).They took them out sometime in the '01-'02 model year,another "cost saving" feature from GM!

I think the HD's still have them.

 

 

 

 

 

I have them on my '01 yukon (1500 series)

 

d**n, I really like the drain plugs!... .....

 

What's next ?

 

Well then ya got to jack up the rear end and let it hang down to clear the rear sway bar.

 

Oh yea, dont use a screw driver or pry bar and try to force it between the cover & housing, you could gouge or bend the cover and have a leak when you go to seal her back up.

 

Use a rubber mallet & tap on the cover.

Posted
No drain plugs anymore on the 1500's (for the rear ends and tranny pans).They took them out sometime in the '01-'02 model year,another "cost saving" feature from GM!

I think the HD's still have them.

 

 

 

 

 

I have them on my '01 yukon (1500 series)

 

d**n, I really like the drain plugs!... .....

 

What's next ?

 

Well then ya got to jack up the rear end and let it hang down to clear the rear sway bar.

 

Oh yea, dont use a screw driver or pry bar and try to force it between the cover & housing, you could gouge or bend the cover and have a leak when you go to seal her back up.

 

Use a rubber mallet & tap on the cover.

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can use a wide blade screwdriver as long has you only pry between case and cover lip. I do it all the time and have done it for years with no leaks either afterward. You just do not want to drive it in there to break it lose and possible damage seal.

Posted

Thanks for replies.

 

No drain plugs on this '05 Yukon.

 

I usually put a new gasket (but not always) in when I remove the cover on my other vehicles like for instance the old Suburban. This is the first truck/suv that I have owned that had anything in the way.

 

Hopefully jacking up the rear will enable me to get the cover off completely, or at least have enough clearance to get to the magnet and put a new gasket in if the original gets damaged.

 

There is no magnet in the old 1988 GMC burbs 10 bolt, maybe there was one at one time and somebody didnt put it back in ???

 

As far as the magnet goes on the new Yukon, is it removeable and where is it ?

 

Without looking real close the cover looks just like the 10 bolt on my old 1988. Is the gasket the same ?

 

What gasket should I get so that I dont end up with the cover removed and a damaged gasket and no replacement ?

 

Thank for the help !!!

Posted

The gasket is the same as on your '88 1500,GM part #26066456

The magnet on the 1500's is mounted right on the cover itself (right where the little "dimple" is)On some rear ends its just sitting on the bottom of the axle housing itself.

Sometimes its just mounted with the magnetic force and sometimes GM uses a little silicone to hold it in place (as mine is)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...