Jump to content

Right Front Wheel Bearing GMC Sonoma

symbasden

Recommended Posts

symbasden New Member

symbasden

Posted
Posted

Everyone,

 

The Right Front Wheel Bearing is going on my '99 GMC Sonoma. I have the 4x4 extended cab with the 4.3l votec engine. I have push button 4x4 and anti-lock brakes.

 

My question to you all, is the replacement of the hub assembly for these trucks a DIY project? I have some mechanic skills, but wouldn't dream of rebuilding an engine. I have replaced breaks, alternators, water pumps, starters, etc....

 

Thanks!

 

Jeff

Tex2kZR2 Enthusiast

Tex2kZR2

Posted
Posted
Everyone,

 

The Right Front Wheel Bearing is going on my '99 GMC Sonoma. I have the 4x4 extended cab with the 4.3l votec engine. I have push button 4x4 and anti-lock brakes.

 

My question to you all, is the replacement of the hub assembly for these trucks a DIY project? I have some mechanic skills, but wouldn't dream of rebuilding an engine. I have replaced breaks, alternators, water pumps, starters, etc....

 

Thanks!

 

Jeff

 

 

 

 

Yeah you can do it yourself. Helped a friend replace his a while back. 36m socket will be needed to remove it.(and a big can of whoop ass..air rachet or cheater pipe :P ) Find the part number you need from a dealership and order it from gmpartsdirect.com for roughly half the price a dealership will charge.

 

Hope that helps.

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
Everyone,

 

The Right Front Wheel Bearing is going on my '99 GMC Sonoma. I have the 4x4 extended cab with the 4.3l votec engine. I have push button 4x4 and anti-lock brakes.

 

My question to you all, is the replacement of the hub assembly for these trucks a DIY project? I have some mechanic skills, but wouldn't dream of rebuilding an engine. I have replaced breaks, alternators, water pumps, starters, etc....

 

Thanks!

 

Jeff

 

 

 

 

Yeah you can do it yourself. Helped a friend replace his a while back. 36m socket will be needed to remove it.(and a big can of whoop ass..air rachet or cheater pipe :chevy: ) Find the part number you need from a dealership and order it from gmpartsdirect.com for roughly half the price a dealership will charge.

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A set of 3/4 inch tools (sockets and ratchets) that you get at Harbor Freight, a discount tool place or TSC will do very nicely as though they are not metric they will fit a nut that size well. That is what I use. I also use a 3/4" air wrench to remove them but it is not a must have.

blue2kzr2 Enthusiast

blue2kzr2

Posted
Posted

I used the 36mm socket (deepwell needed) and a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar. That and my 200+ lbs and I was able to break the axle nut loose. Tip, pop the center cap off the wheel BEFORE jacking the truck up and break the nut loose. The bolts on the back were tricky, needed to use open-end wrenches. Use a BFH and a brass rod to bust the old hub loose from the spindle, it's a bitch.

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
I used the 36mm socket (deepwell needed) and a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar.  That and my 200+ lbs and I was able to break the axle nut loose.  Tip, pop the center cap off the wheel BEFORE jacking the truck up and break the nut loose.  The bolts on the back were tricky, needed to use open-end wrenches.  Use a BFH and a brass rod to bust the old hub loose from the spindle, it's a bitch.

 

 

 

 

 

Good tips on the brass drift and breaking nut lose with wheel still on ground but if you by a cheap 3/4 inch set you will get a socket that will fit well and a longer and strudier breaker bar that will make breaking that nut loose a lot easier too.

blue2kzr2 Enthusiast

blue2kzr2

Posted
Posted

Uhh, I bought a 36mm 1/2" drive axle nut socket, DESIGNED FOR THIS TASK. Oh yeah, the breaker bar I have is about 3' long, maybe 2', but still long enough. I have old steel pipe availble to use as a cheater bar anyway...

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
Uhh, I bought a 36mm 1/2" drive axle nut socket, DESIGNED FOR THIS TASK.  Oh yeah, the breaker bar I have is about 3' long, maybe 2', but still long enough.  I have old steel pipe availble to use as a cheater bar anyway...

 

 

 

 

 

A 1/2 drive is not DESIGNED for a 36mm bolt. a 36mm nut is about 1.44 inches and a 1 7/16 socket will fit it nice and snugly too. there is no need to pay top dollar for a 1/2 drive 36 mm socket when a generic 3/4 set will fit it and the 3/4 set is more up to the torque too. I have used my 3/4 non metric set on the front of several FWD imports too and always found a socket that is a good fit. Generally anything the is over 1 1/8 or so ( or about 30 mm) is in the 3/4 drive realm for tuff nuts because I have broken many 1/2 drives in bolts this size and bigger and 3/4 sets usually start at 1 inch too.

  • 2 years later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 486 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • MANGOAL
      Mangoal or FitcamX OEM Dashcam?

      By MANGOAL · Posted

      Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • davester
      2002 GMC Yukon

      By davester · Posted

      There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • davester
      Weight limit in bed

      By davester · Posted

      Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • EJS2015
      Actual Full Screen CarPlay on Refreshed Silverado/Sierras.

      By EJS2015 · Posted

      Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...