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Posted

Hey team,

Got the Westers PCM and injectors today and COULD NOT wait until after work Friday to put em in. So I did it today. Everything went as planned except for not starting.

I tried starting it right after the swap, no go.

I performed the relearn EXACTLY, no go.

I swapped the old PCM in, no go.

Reinstalled the new PCM, no go.

:)

It won't even give me the flashing SECURITY now, so I guess that means the relearn was successful?

 

I checked a bunch of posts by searching and I bet it was something with the relearn but since it's not giving me the flashing SECURITY, I don't know where to go.

 

Any hints?

 

I guess I'll be working from home tomorrow!

Posted

Wow. Now that's a good one I've never heard ????? Did you try calling Lyndon ?? Or your rep ??

 

Ummm..... did ya disconnect the battery an forget to reattach ?!!!?

 

Are you sure the wiring harness is seated completely ??

 

Check for any debris in the connector/cpu ??

 

Gotta be something silly- the truck should accept it's stock cpu w/o issue .....

Guest 007FL
Posted

I had trouble starting after relearn until I gave it just a little gas. It started immediately.

 

Good Luck

Posted

Hey guys, thanks for the ideas.

 

Everything is reattached and everything is tightened down. I rechecked everything under the hood and re-reattached all electrical attachements.

 

I haven't been able to call Lyndon because of lack of free time but I emailed him last night and he just told me the relearn probably wasn't done right.

 

When I try to start it now, it sounds like it wants to start. Sputters and all that. Even if I gas it, it don't fire. Very frustrating. Now the security light doesn't come on so I don't think I can even redo the learn sequence. After work today I will disconnect the battery, let it sit and after I reconnect it I will see if it will let me enter into the learn sequence again. I'll try the old one too, I guess.

 

I don't like when this stuff happens to me! :)

Posted

You swapped in a new PCM and Injectors at the same time?

Now it won't start with either your old or new PCM?

I don't think it's the PCM causing your problems...

Posted
You swapped in a new PCM and Injectors at the same time?

Now it won't start with either your old or new PCM?

I don't think it's the PCM causing your problems...

 

 

 

 

Hey, where do you live... CUZ I OWE YOU A BEER! :)

 

I swapped the new, flow matched and cleaned injectors for the old, crappy, crusty, clogged originals and The Battleship is idling in the garage as I type.

 

Hmmmmm. I'm getting pretty good at R&Ring injectors in case anyone needs help!

 

Thanks again team!

Ed

Posted

UPDATE:

I have the new Westers PCM installed and I have the stock injectors back it. Lyndon seems to think it was the PCM but after I removed his injectors it fired right up. He was confused as heck with that. I have a busy weekend but I may try swapping the new injectors back in for sheets and giggles Sunday night or Monday night. If it fires up, I can chalk it up to a freak occurrence. If it doesn't, well then the new injectors aren't working.

 

Oh, for the Sea Foam fans, while I had the old injectors out, I soaked em in Sea Foam for 30 minutes before reinstalling em. :cry:

 

About the new PCM...

It's running VERY nicely! In fact, I am having a problem keeping the speed down so I don't get a ticket! It's idling smooth too. I swear my power windows are even going up faster! :)

First gear goes to 5600 rpm and 2nd gear pulls very hard WAY past any speed limits around my house! Can't wait for a trip on the interstate.

I'd like the shift from 1st to 2nd to be a bit firmer and closer to 4800 but I can live with it. The shift from 2nd to 3rd is nice and firm. All in all, I would recommend a Westers tune. I have the 89/93 setup. A much better tune than what my old Hypertech gave me.

 

Later,

Ed

Posted

I agree with Lyndon on that one ED, makes no sense at all. His injectors are all individually cleaned, flow tested and matched in sets. Must have been some connector not making contact or something like that. Will be very interesting to see what happens when you put them back in. Could you hear the fuel pump coming on when you had them in?

Posted
I agree with Lyndon on that one ED, makes no sense at all. His injectors are all individually cleaned, flow tested and matched in sets. Must have been some connector not making contact or something like that. Will be very interesting to see what happens when you put them back in. Could you hear the fuel pump coming on when you had them in?

 

 

 

 

 

Strange indeed. I look at working on car like it's a puzzle... If you remove pieces and replace them in order, it should all work. This just isn't right. I will let y'all know what happens Sunday night, hopefully.

 

Yep, when I would turn the key to ON before engaging the starter I would hear the pump come on for the standard 2 seconds and switch off. I checked for fuel line pressure at the rail and even purged the air. All standard practice. We shall see.

 

Talk with y'all soon!

Ed

Posted
You swapped in a new PCM and Injectors at the same time?

Now it won't start with either your old or new PCM?

I don't think it's the PCM causing your problems...

 

 

 

 

Hey, where do you live... CUZ I OWE YOU A BEER! :jester:

 

I swapped the new, flow matched and cleaned injectors for the old, crappy, crusty, clogged originals and The Battleship is idling in the garage as I type.

 

Hmmmmm. I'm getting pretty good at R&Ring injectors in case anyone needs help!

 

Thanks again team!

Ed

 

 

 

 

 

:chevy: Thanks Ed! No payment necessary. Glad to help!

Posted

wow...swapped injectors that quick?

 

How difficult is it to swap the PCM and injectors on a 4.8? I should be picking my 00' 4.8 up tomarrow and I'm curious about the new wonderous world that is the aftermarket.

Posted
How difficult is it to swap the PCM and injectors on a 4.8?

 

I'm my 6.0L the PCM takes about 3 minutes. I disconnected the battery, took off the plastic splash guard that just snaps on to cover the PCM, unscrewed two 7mm bolts that hold the electrical connectors to the PCM, unclip the PCM retainer clip, swap, reinstall and you're done. BAM! More power. :jester:

 

If you plan on wrenching on your 4.3, get a manual cuz it'll outline this stuff specifically. My injector layout may be different than yours but this is what I did.

 

1) Remove plastic engine top dress cover.

2) Relieve pressure on the fuel rail by putting a rag by the "bicycle-tire-airvalve-lookin thing" and pushing in with your fingernail.

3) Unplug all electrical connections at the injectors

4) Disconnect throttle and cruise control cables at the thottle body

5) unbolt throttle cable routing plate

6) unbolt rear air sensor cover

7) disconnect electrical connections to throttle body, alternator and any other sensor on top of the intake manifold and pull aside the giant wiring harness that's drapped across the manifold. I used black electrical tape to tie it up, back and out of the way.

8) go to autoparts store and buy the "GM quick connection fuel line removal tool" ($10 and do it before you begin the project or you'll be putting everything back on to go there! :chevy: <-- me)

9) Remove fuel lines from fuel injector rail

10) unbolt fuel rail and pull it up and out

11) get a coffee can or some other catch can to drain the MANY ounces still in the fuel rail that will need to come out... or else it'll be soaking into your workbench!

12) with fuel rail on bench, pull out all fuel injector retainer clips by hand

13) pull out each injector

14) oil the o-rings on the new injectors and pop em in

15) installation is in reverse!

 

You can do the entire job in 20 minutes.

I would recommend the Westers tune right away as it's the best upgrade I've done to my truck.

 

Good luck!

Ed

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