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Transmission Drain Plug

MMM

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MMM Enthusiast

MMM

Posted
Posted

This may be somewhat of a stupid question, but what is the proper socket size used to remove the automatic transmission drain plug on a 2000 Silverado? It seems to be in between all of my sockets, SAE or Metric. Thanks MMM.

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted

Sorry I can't remember the exact size (Been awhile since I tried to remove the one on my '99 I had) But I can tell you that I never could get it off! It was on so d@#m tight it wouldn't budge,we even tried an air rachet and then an impact wrench here at the garage and no luck.

Since then these guys have tried to remove a few other tranny drain plugs on these trucks and no luck! There just on way too tight!

Let us know if you get it loose and off.

MMM Enthusiast

MMM

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sorry I can't remember the exact size (Been awhile since I tried to remove the one on my '99 I had) But I can tell you that I never could get it off! It was on so d@#m tight it wouldn't budge,we even tried an air rachet and then an impact wrench here at the garage and no luck.

Since then these guys have tried to remove a few other tranny drain plugs on these trucks and no luck! There just on way too tight!

Let us know if you get it loose and off.

 

 

 

Yes I am having the same problem. I brought my truck to a local transmission shop, to have the transmission serviced, and they stripped it out. I would like to change the plug and this way I could drain the pan every couple of oil changes, and replace a couple of quarts for the little bit of money it would cost. Thanks for the reply, sorry fo the double post. MMM

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted

Yep,That was the same problem I had,We ended up rounding off the bolt head because as you are inquiring about,we never really could find the right size,if I can remember I think I tried 14 or 15mm,but nothing really seemed to fit nice and tight.

I finally just ended up doing it the old way....dropping the pan with the fluid in it! (along with about 5qts of ATF on me :D:seeya::chevy: )

mmmikkke Senior Enthusiast

mmmikkke

Posted
Posted

From a previous post last year... Thread was started by a Z71 owner, but this answer might actually apply to the 4L80E on the 2500.

 

24213991 is the part number for the drain plug. I highly suggest getting one before you even attempt it. As mentioned above, 15mm-6 point socket, impact or breaker bar to start. Keep the socket pushed on the plug when loosening. I had to finish mine off with a hammer and chisel. Next time it should be O.K. since you won't torque it as tight as the gorilla that assembled these transmissions. I had my transmission good and hot before I drained.

 

Should take you about 3 beers. :seeya:  :chevy:  :D

 

Good luck!

 

 

 

 

[edited...]

 

Does this truck have a hex socket plug?

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted

The 4L60E's on the 1/2 tons have a hex-head bolt drain plug,not an allen head bolt.

Not sure on the 4L80E's but I just looked at a new '05 HD with an Allison Trans. and it too had a hex-head bolt drain plug.

asepgrad98 Senior Enthusiast

asepgrad98

Posted
Posted

i never did get mine off after rounding it off with a high quality 15mm 6point socket. :seeya:

 

bought a new bolt and the craftsman bolt remover set and it wouldnt turn it either. Plan C is to weld another bolt to it (after the pan is off the truck ofcourse) so i can turn it. Havnt felt like messin with it recently however

MMM Enthusiast

MMM

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i never did get mine off after rounding it off with a high quality 15mm 6point socket. :seeya:

 

bought a new bolt and the craftsman bolt remover set and it wouldnt turn it either. Plan C is to weld another bolt to it (after the pan is off the truck ofcourse) so i can turn it. Havnt felt like messin with it recently however

 

 

 

It seems like a poor design, there is not much meat on this bolt head. Yes I think a 15mm 6 point and a 19/32 socket both fit loose. Actually, I was able to get the one off of my wifes Avalanche. I had to use a small hydraulic jack to apply a very small amount of pressure to keep my rachet tight on the bolt, and at the same time my father in law used a chisel and hammer, and we were able to remove the plug. It was so tight on there, it was unbelievable. I also thought about the idea of welding a better head on the bolt, but I would have to get the old one off, and it kind of looks like it could be made of some old pot metal. Thanks for all of the replies. MMM

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted

Thats the other problem.....Like you said,Theres not much meat on the bolt head.

Who designed that bolt!? :seeya:

Hotwire Enthusiast

Hotwire

Posted
Posted
Thats the other problem.....Like you said,Theres not much meat on the bolt head.

Who designed that bolt!? :seeya:

 

 

 

 

right there w/ the rest of you guys, that's a triple cuss word bolt if i've ever seen one. I ended up having to undo the cat/muffler flange and put a pull bar on the y-pipe section to allow me enough room to clear the pan so i didn't snap one of the solenoids off the back end of the valve body. it sucks!

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted
Thats the other problem.....Like you said,Theres not much meat on the bolt head.

Who designed that bolt!? :seeya:

 

 

 

 

right there w/ the rest of you guys, that's a triple cuss word bolt if i've ever seen one. I ended up having to undo the cat/muffler flange and put a pull bar on the y-pipe section to allow me enough room to clear the pan so i didn't snap one of the solenoids off the back end of the valve body. it sucks!

 

 

 

 

 

It helps that they over-torque it from the factory too. By first stripped and took be about a half hour to get out. Purchased a replacemebt at Chevy dealer and it has not been a problem since. Of course, I don't over-tighten it either. I drain and fill the pan at every oil change (5K) to keep it fresh.

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

You know that there's got to be just one SOB working in a transmission assembly plant somewhere....Just laughing his ass off every day, using a 3 foot breaker bar and a socket custom machined for one irregular bolt size, to torque these things on.

 

Then he goes home and beats his wife and kicks his dog.

 

He's a real character, that one.

 

:chevy: Here's to karma catching him someday.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:seeya:

MMM Enthusiast

MMM

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You know that there's got to be just one SOB working in a transmission assembly plant somewhere....Just laughing his ass off every day, using a 3 foot breaker bar and a socket custom machined for one irregular bolt size, to torque these things on.

 

Then he goes home and beats his wife and kicks his dog.

 

He's a real character, that one.

 

:chevy:  Here's to karma catching him someday.

 

I'm laughing, but if I didn't know better, I would be inclined to believe this story.  Maybe someone will make a good aftermarket drain plug for this application.  Better yet, maybe GM will put it on recall, and replace all of them under warranty for us with a new improved design.  Yeah right!  MMM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:seeya:

 

 

 

BlueTahoe Enthusiast

BlueTahoe

Posted
Posted

I just got my plug loose a couple weeks ago. Had to buy a 15mm 6 point socket and use a cheater bar on the rachet. I got frustrated at first so I decided I would either strip it or get it loose. It popped loose after getting the 3 foot cheater bar on it. If this didn't work I was going to try a large pipe wrench and buy a new plug.

 

Wonder what the factory torque specs are on that one 1,000 ft lbs? :seeya:

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