Jump to content

Speedometer problem


lwrlead

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

 

I own a 2004 GMC Sierra extra-cab with approximately 54,000 miles on it. Just recently, my speedometer has not been working correctly. It does not show the correct MPH in that it's showing a speed too slow than I am actually traveling. I'll be driving around 60 mph, and it will only show 35-40 mph. Anyway, this seemed to all start when it got cold outside. First time this happend, it had been a really cold night and there was a heavy frost that morning. Speedometer did not register correctly. After traveling for some time and the truck nice and warm, I came to a stop light where I came to a complete stop. Once I started driving again, the speedometer seemed to correct itself and work fine for the rest of the drive. However, this morning the speedometer was not registering right on my way to work again. Right now with the key off, the needle is actually pointing below the 0 mph mark. Is this a problem with the cluster or cable or what??

 

Thanks

Posted

Speedometers haven't been cable driven since... well, it's been so long I don't remember when. In the 80's some time.

 

We have a fair share of problems with the stepper motor for the speedometer. I'd say that's your problem. That means the cluster needs to be sent out for repairs.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

My 2003 Silverado LT with 35,000 miles just started the same thing yesterday (Sat. 11/12). Cold out (36F) in morning when I went out. Moved up scale like the second hand on a clock. "Ticky" instead of smooth. Went to 90mph when I knew I was only going 70 after using tach for speed reference. Stopped and restarted and it stayed at 90 and started up to 120. Stopped and restarted again this time started out at 60 and kept going up. Started and restarted again and this time it never moved. Started and restarted again and worked close to actual speed but still "Ticky". Is this an "I can fix" thing or back to the dealer. Glad it's happening now cause I'm seriosly considering having a temp gauge installed and refaced. If I take it to the dealer can you guesstimate how long this may take??? Any info will be appreciated.

Posted

This is nothing you can fix unless you want to take the cluster out and send it out for repairs. That's what the dealer will do too. Actually, they may get an exchange unit, but same thing. It'd be at least two days in the shop. First day to get it in and diagnose and order the cluster. The cluster is then sent overnight and they should get it to put in the next day.

 

That's the typical procedure here.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • sorry to bump an old thread, im a bit clueless with this stuff, would these fit a 2019+ Silverado? https://wiperpro.com.au/products/chevrolet-silverado-wiper-blades mainly wondering if the beam shape stays planted at highway speed, thats what seems to let the factory ones down imo
    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...