Jump to content

Extended cab rear windows - wind noise

Green04

Recommended Posts

Green04 Enthusiast

Green04

Posted
Posted

:rolleyes: I don't like the excessive wind noise from the pop-out windows on my extended cab. GM replaced the gaskets, and that seemed to help until it got cold. Now it's as bad as ever. (To add insult to injury, they really chipped up my paint around one of the windows and did a lousy job fixing the chips! :D )

 

BESIDES, gluing them shut, has anyone had these pop-out window seals replaced and gotten a significant reduction in noise?

sablowme Enthusiast

sablowme

Posted
Posted

Hey i also have the same issue with my ex-cab but just havent gotten around to fixing it. I work at a gm dealer here in maryland and just was online reading about this tsb, when i read your thread the tsb# is pit3787 and it looks like it is saying to adjust the rear quarter glass hinge so it pulls the glass tighter to the body of the truck. but if you can pull up that bullitan or see if some one has it and check it out

2000 GMC Enthusiast

2000 GMC

Posted
Posted

I had both of mine replaced by the dealer and no problems since.

 

If I was you, I would take it back in and have both the window and chips fixed right.

cyclejerk Enthusiast

cyclejerk

Posted
Posted
I had both of mine replaced by the dealer and no problems since.

 

If I was you, I would take it back in and have both the window and chips fixed right.

 

 

 

 

They JACKED UP YOUR PAINT! THEY need to fix it, PERIOD! They have plenty-o-cash.

good luck w/ the windows too.

JCedar Enthusiast

JCedar

Posted
Posted
tsb# is pit3787 and it looks like it is saying to adjust the rear quarter glass hinge so it pulls the glass tighter to the body of the truck

 

 

SO how do you adjust the hinge on that window???

  • 1 month later...
regina_don New Member

regina_don

Posted
Posted

d**n I have the same problem on my 1998 silverado but only on the 3rd door.

To me it looks like the latch isn't pulling the window in tight enough, I will be investigating the latch mechanism further to see if I can adjust it. :D

larry arizona Enthusiast

larry arizona

Posted
Posted

The hinges are not adjustable. The only way to fix is to pull the window and reset it deeper in the window pocket of the sheet metal. That means using less window adhesive. If that is not deep enough they will have to get another window assembly and hope that it is "tighter".

 

My dealer replaced the 1/4 windows in my 2000 Sierra for this conditon and the windows that came from the factory were both loose. They got new ones and set them with less adhesive and they were fine.

 

My 2002 had the driver side 1/4 window loose. Again the dealer replaced it but this time they reused the window with less adhesive.

 

Very common problem.

 

Yeah, get the dealer to repair the abuse to the paint. They will haunt you a couple years from now. It will rust and leak......

 

Give em hell!

  • 2 weeks later...
lawnscapes2 Enthusiast

lawnscapes2

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone i am new, and your site is awsome.

 

Anyway i have a 99 silverado ext cat with that wind noise problem and i heard about this replacement part that they sell on eBay i just bought it and havent gotten it to put it in yet.

 

here is the link:

 

Link

 

I will post an update on how it works but from what i heard it is the best $37 sopme people have spent in a long time.

lerbud Enthusiast

lerbud

Posted
Posted

I am problems with my 2000 model and they replaced one of the windows and on the other they had some type of screw they added to tighten up the latch. Never had a problem with them after that.

  • 1 month later...
toyoman28 Enthusiast

toyoman28

Posted
Posted

Looks like they are still having probs with these windows. My 2005 GMC 1500 ext. cab has really bad windnoise on the passenger rear 1/4 window. They are replacing the whole window and frame assembly. Guess they get glued in wrong at the factory or something. The body shop manager said he sees quite a few of these and this is the only sure fire fix.

redvett Senior Enthusiast

redvett

Posted
Posted

There was a fix to stop the leak by adding the screw to the latch way back in 2000. It works well two of my business trucks have had it done.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 459 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...