Jump to content

Transgo shift kit

bajakid2

Recommended Posts

bajakid2 Enthusiast

bajakid2

Posted
Posted

hey,i have a 2000 silverado and i was wondering if the transgo shift kit is worth getting?my truck has been shifting sloppy latley and at the wrong times...this trucks my daily driver and i wanted to know how the shifts were with the shift kit?are they hard or just perfect like a little better than stock? sorry for all the questions...thank you alot for all the help-Travis

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
hey,i have a 2000 silverado and i was wondering if the transgo shift kit is worth getting?my truck has been shifting sloppy latley and at the wrong times...this trucks my daily driver and i wanted to know how the shifts were with the shift kit?are they hard or just perfect like a little better than stock? sorry for all the questions...thank you alot for all the help-Travis

 

 

 

 

 

While some will say otherwise, I would say no. The reason is because the sprags in the tranny are not that strong and they will hold up fine with stock shifting but banging it a lot with hards shift from a kit and together with big tires and aall axles can take out the sprags with devistating results. If you take the time to rebuild and upgrade the OEM spags and clutches, then it will hold up a lot better. You might change fluid and filter if it has not been done for a while but a kits could shorten its life more. Also install a small aux tranny cooler if you do nopt already have one as it will help extend the life of a tranny new or old.

Mule Enthusiast

Mule

Posted
Posted

I have had my Trans Go shift kit for 11 years, and it works great. 33-inch tires, 4WD all winter long, change the fluid with synthetic Mobil 1 every 30K miles.

 

However, if your truck is shifting poorly, the shift kit is not the fix. Find out what is wrong first, rebuild if required, then install the kit if you want. Don't put a bandaid on a bad tranny. It may do more harm than good by accelerating the problem.

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
I have had my Trans Go shift kit for 11 years, and it works great.  33-inch tires, 4WD all winter long, change the fluid with synthetic Mobil 1 every 30K miles.

 

However, if your truck is shifting poorly, the shift kit is not the fix.  Find out what is wrong first, rebuild if required, then install the kit if you want.  Don't put a bandaid on a bad tranny.  It may do more harm than good by accelerating the problem.

 

 

 

 

 

I do not think is will accelerate the problem and this poster has been lucky. The 4L80 has much stronger sprags than the 700R4 or 4L60 and will hold up much better. If it was a 4L80 I would have a different opinion.

  • 3 weeks later...
bajakid2 Enthusiast

bajakid2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey,i might be takin my truck in this coming week for the shift kit...i hope im makin the right choice haha

Rammer Enthusiast

Rammer

Posted
Posted

my truck has been shifting sloppy latley and at the wrong times..

 

Sounds like you have clutches going out and the pcm is increasing pressure to compensate for slipping.

 

There's a problem with the trans and a shift kit will not fix it.

mcreyaufmiller Senior Enthusiast

mcreyaufmiller

Posted
Posted

Depending on the kit, it may help a lot. The Shift kit I put in my tranny the first time also increased the pressure on the pump to a degree. It gave me an additional 80k before I had to rebuild. Whe I rebuilt, I replaced all of the known weak points in the unit as well as adding a transgo HDII kit and a vette servo. My wife drove it after the tranny was done and got scared when she accerlated to get on the freeway and the tranny downshifted and broke loose. But that is another story.

Guest chevydeerhunter

Guest chevydeerhunter

Posted
Posted
my truck has been shifting sloppy latley and at the wrong times..

 

Sounds like you have clutches going out and the pcm is increasing pressure to compensate for slipping.

 

There's a problem with the trans and a shift kit will not fix it.

 

 

 

 

I tend to agree with Rammer. If it's been shifting sloppy lately, then there's an underlying problem that needs to be looked into instead of putting a band-aid over it.

bajakid2 Enthusiast

bajakid2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey,my trucks goin into the tranny shop tomororw to get looked at i hope its nothing to major...but another thing i heard is that the transgo Corrects/Prevents/Reduces: FIXES Code 1870 Trouble light & Hard 1-2 shift. No lockup or 4th. Fixes harmonic bounce that wears out pump and valves and causes shuttle shifts. i was also talking to my tranny guy i go to and he was saying the shift kit would fix the problems i was having. i hope he wasnt just trying to sell me the shift kit.not sure though

asilverblazer Senior Enthusiast

asilverblazer

Posted
Posted

If you haven't had the truck very long the PCM could be learning your driving style, and making adjustments. If that is the case it could very well be shifting differently, but not incorrectly. And if that is the case the shift kit should be fine. I never have heard though if the shift points/firmness, are affected by the PCM's learning curve. I would think so, because there aren't that many parameters so directly related to driver style than that. Also unplugging the battery could reset the PCM causing the learning procedure to start over.

bajakid2 Enthusiast

bajakid2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey,Thanks for all the help i really appriciate it,sorry for all the questions too i just didnt want to regret buying something...but ya thanks alot for the help

-Travis :cheers:

bajakid2 Enthusiast

bajakid2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey,i just got my truck back today with the transgo kit...and wow it shifts 10x better EXCEPT,my ujoints are done soo monday im getting new ones..then now on my 1st to 2nd gear shift you can feel the TM kicking in and then off...its really annoying...haha well time for a custom tune..will a custom tune really liven up my truck and make it shift better?Thanks alot for everyones help

-Travis

mcreyaufmiller Senior Enthusiast

mcreyaufmiller

Posted
Posted

Jesse does a great job with his custom tunes. I have 2 and interchange them on occasion. You can really feel the difference between the 87/89 tune and the 91/93 tune. Just call and chat with him, he will lay out a good tune for you and send it on it's way.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...