Jump to content

Please help, 99 yukon died on highway


Recommended Posts

Posted

hey guys, i did a bunch of searching but unable to narrow down my problem.

 

tonight, driving home from work my 99 yukon just died... i was doing about 65mph on the freeway and it started to slow down, noticed the rpm was zero and i had my foot down on the gas pedal, it sputtered a bit, as if i was running out of gas. pulled to the side, it would crank but wont fire up. so towed it home and i went to start the truck again and it fires right up! didnt drive it around because i'm scared it'll die again.

 

i should also mention that i got the SES light a couple months ago... it flashed, then stayed on steady, then went away, came back on again when i really load up the truck... climbing hill, towing, will always trigger the SES.

 

and ever since the SES has been coming on... the truck sputters and hesitates a bit climbing incline at freeway speeds in OD. idle is rough at times.

 

the fuel filter was changed about 15k miles ago, i just changed the plugs. when i turn the key to ON position i can hear the fuel pump whine on briefly. i'm guessing it's not the fuel pump because it started up again several hours after it died on the freeway? i know i should read the codes... i need to get a scanner.

 

can anyone please help? thanks a lot everyone!

Posted

First thing i would check is to see if your getting fuel, because imo it sounds alot your like your fuel pump just took a dump.

 

-edit-Maybe i should of read your entire post first sorry :thumbs::banghead::banghead:

Posted

I had a 2000 Yukon Denali, same body as the 1999 with the 5.7L vortec do this to me. What my problem ended up being was a loose distributor cap, that ended up melting itself. Once htis was fixed, it was good to go again.

 

Check the Distributor to see what it looks like. It is a real Pain to get to, but its a very cheap fix if this is the problem.

 

Hope it helps.

 

Bryan

Posted
I had a 2000 Yukon Denali, same body as the 1999 with the 5.7L vortec do this to me.  What my problem ended up being was a loose distributor cap, that ended up melting itself.  Once htis was fixed, it was good to go again.

 

Check the Distributor to see what it looks like.  It is a real Pain to get to, but its a very cheap fix if this is the problem.

 

Hope it helps.

 

Bryan

 

 

 

 

you know, just recently i had the engine jacked up a bit to do a oil pan change out... and what i noticed was the engine had to be jacked up quite a bit and the dist cap towards the firewall seemed to be really close to the firewall there, i was concerned about it actually but didnt think it was knocked loose or damaged, but this is a good idea to check!

 

my question is though... if i did knock the dist cap loose during the engine jacking ordeal for the oil pan, and if being loose the cap melted, would the truck start right up again after a few hours of sitting? i tried starting it again this morning, and even after sitting over night she fires right up as if nothing ever happened. :banghead: i was tempted to drive it to work but instead hitched a ride... thanks.

Posted
any more comments please? thanks!

 

 

 

Almost sounds like fuel pump to me. We have a lot of chevies at work and every one now has dumped a fuel pump. Usually happens on a hot day. Truck just sputters and dies on the road. If you wait 20 minutes or so it fires right up again, and may be good for a while. Turns out his has been a common problem for a lot of GM vehicles. I read a lot about it on another forum. My dad had the same problem with his 04 1500 silverado. Truck was fine around town, but on the highway there was a long haul up the mountain, and during a hot day the thing would die on him. He'd wait a bit and the truck fires up like nothing happened. he'd go 20 miles or so then it would happen again. The dealer told him they had replaced a lot pumps already

Posted
any more comments please? thanks!

 

 

 

Almost sounds like fuel pump to me. We have a lot of chevies at work and every one now has dumped a fuel pump. Usually happens on a hot day. Truck just sputters and dies on the road. If you wait 20 minutes or so it fires right up again, and may be good for a while. Turns out his has been a common problem for a lot of GM vehicles. I read a lot about it on another forum. My dad had the same problem with his 04 1500 silverado. Truck was fine around town, but on the highway there was a long haul up the mountain, and during a hot day the thing would die on him. He'd wait a bit and the truck fires up like nothing happened. he'd go 20 miles or so then it would happen again. The dealer told him they had replaced a lot pumps already

 

 

 

 

 

My 99 Sub had the pump changed 2 years ago after it died in the driveway and again this winter it went. This time the engine died on the highway. It started again after I had pulled over to the side of the highway. The next 50 miles on the way home it hesitated a few times. The next few days the truck was harder to start so I suspected the pump again. First thing I did to rule out the pump was do a pressure test . Bingo fuel pressure was borderline so if it droped a few psi it would hesitate or stop running. All that said I replaced the fuel pump but this time no OEM part. Found a replacement pump from VENOM PERFORMACE Inc. which runs qiet, cooler and more output. I can stand next to the truck while pump is running and can hardly hear it. Pump was cheaper then OEM part by the way.

 

Cheers

John

Posted

thanks for the help guys... i havent had time to take a closer look at it but this morning she fired right up again.

 

but i didnt drive it to work, i hitched a ride with my wife in her 1988 honda civic that's still on the original fuel pump. i hate that d**n civic but at least it runs.

 

i'm going to autozone tonight to pick up a code reader (i've had SES light on for a while now too).

 

how much work is it to drop the fuel tank and replace that d**n pump?

Posted
thanks for the help guys... i havent had time to take a closer look at it but this morning she fired right up again.

 

but i didnt drive it to work, i hitched a ride with my wife in her 1988 honda civic that's still on the original fuel pump. i hate that d**n civic but at least it runs.

 

i'm going to autozone tonight to pick up a code reader (i've had SES light on for a while now too).

 

how much work is it to drop the fuel tank and replace that d**n pump?

 

 

 

 

Since it was winter and -20f outside I did mine at my mechanics shop with him. We had the pump replaced within 2hrs but I had only 6 or 7 gal. of gas in it and it's a 40 gal. (US) tank. It's a lot easier on a lift and with a support jack for the tank at a garage. But you need to read your code first in case it's not your problem. good luck.

 

Cheers

John

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 705 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...