Jump to content

Tire presure monitor - why the correct tire?


yukon4wd

Recommended Posts

Posted

Sorry not sure where else to post this.

 

One of the things important with the tire monitor system, is to program which tire is in which position. Let air out, run around reporogram etc.

 

WHY????

 

I had always thought it was so the DIC would indicate which tire had a problem. Well I had a leak, and get a warning that I should "Check Tire Pressure", but not which tire.

 

Why on earth all the hassle with getting the position correct, if it can't tell me which tire has a problem? It just seems a bit wierd to me.

Posted

I could be wrong, but even though it just says "low tire pressure" and not specifically which, you should be able to scroll through the DIC and display each individual tire/pressure.

 

Even if that's not the case on yours (there are variations), knowing which sensor is in which position can be important when it comes to diagnosing a system problem.

A wheel sensor code may set and we need to know which sensor it was. You wouldn't be very happy if someone wanted to charge you for all four sensors because they had no clue which was the fault one.

 

So though you may not be able to see individual tire pressures, we get a lot of information via the tech 2.

Posted
I could be wrong, but even though it just says "low tire pressure" and not specifically which, you should be able to scroll through the DIC and display each individual tire/pressure.

 

Even if that's not the case on yours (there are variations), knowing which sensor is in which position can be important when it comes to diagnosing a system problem.

A wheel sensor code may set and we need to know which sensor it was.  You wouldn't be very happy if someone wanted to charge you for all four sensors because they had no clue which was the fault one.

 

So though you may not be able to see individual tire pressures, we get a lot of information via the tech 2.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for that. My DIC does not offer any tire info at all, though I was expecting it to do so. Maybe I need to search harder, but I think I have tried every option.

 

I didn't realize that they actually measure the tire presure. I had guessed it was just a Too low, OK, too high type thing. It would definitely be nice if there was some way I could see the presure on the DIC, or even if an after market interface was available.

 

again thanks

Posted

On my 05 Yukon it will display, on the DIC, the PSI for each individual tire. I don't know if you have the steering wheel controls but for mine I press the button that has the mileage symbol until the DIC shows "Tire Pressure" or something like that. Then I press button that has the enter key symbol, each press will show the tire pressure for an individual tire (ie., LF, RF, RR, LR). I can't imagine that your 2004 Yukon would be any different.

Posted
On my 05 Yukon it will display, on the DIC, the PSI for each individual tire. I don't know if you have the steering wheel controls but for mine I press the button that has the mileage symbol until the DIC shows "Tire Pressure" or something like that. Then I press button that has the enter key symbol, each press will show the tire pressure for an individual tire (ie., LF, RF, RR, LR). I can't imagine that your 2004 Yukon would be any different.

 

 

 

 

Thats basically exactly what I was expecting, but I couldn't find it. I will take another look tomorow, and see if I missed it some how.

 

Thanks.

Posted
On my 05 Yukon it will display, on the DIC, the PSI for each individual tire. I don't know if you have the steering wheel controls but for mine I press the button that has the mileage symbol until the DIC shows "Tire Pressure" or something like that. Then I press button that has the enter key symbol, each press will show the tire pressure for an individual tire (ie., LF, RF, RR, LR). I can't imagine that your 2004 Yukon would be any different.

 

 

 

 

That's how mine is.

 

And when one of my tires is low, it bongs at me and displays which one. It then stops it's incessant bonging but leaves the display up until the tire is back at a decent pressure.

Posted

Why cant things be simple? I never understood people who let their tires run flat, and say "oh, i just didnt know" ...every vehicle ive ever had for 10+ years, i carried a pen tire guage in the glovebox. You'd be amazed how many people DONT know how to even use one.

 

If i had aluminum rims, i watched more carefully...as the cold/hot day/night would make them leak a little...steel rims, never had a problem...but i still checked them!

 

I bring this up, not to be a post whore, but the boyfriend of the girl im buying the cherokee off of (as a beater) is an idiot. This kid supposidly went to BOCES for auto mechanics...yet he can barely spin a wrench. We got into a discussion one night because he, and i quote...

 

"...im glad i didnt buy a Chevy Silverado with those garbage tranny's ...at least the GMC Jimmy has a better tranny in it..."

 

This is whats leading our world 10 years from now people. LOL

 

Anyhow, sorry. Continue.

Posted
On my 05 Yukon it will display, on the DIC, the PSI for each individual tire. I don't know if you have the steering wheel controls but for mine I press the button that has the mileage symbol until the DIC shows "Tire Pressure" or something like that. Then I press button that has the enter key symbol, each press will show the tire pressure for an individual tire (ie., LF, RF, RR, LR). I can't imagine that your 2004 Yukon would be any different.

 

 

 

 

That's how mine is.

 

And when one of my tires is low, it bongs at me and displays which one. It then stops it's incessant bonging but leaves the display up until the tire is back at a decent pressure.

 

 

 

 

 

Well I just changed to Snow tires today, and now I am getting all the warnings again. I marked the rims with chalk, and they definitely put them back in the same positions, but the warning is flashing now and wont go off. I checked the tires with my own gauge, and it showed them all slightly over inflated (about 37 psi) not enough I would think to cause the warning, but I dropped them all to 35, but still the warning. I used the gauge last week to measure the pressure, so I think the gauge is OK.

 

Worst thing is I don't know if the warning is over presure, under presure, wrong rim position, fault somewhere etc. But its very annoying. If I could see what it thinks is the presure in the individual tires, I could do something.

 

Is there some way I can program the unit to get this "hidden feature".

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Does anyone know if its possible to program the DIC to let e know more about my tires than "Check Tire Pressure". I am guessing if these tuning guys can control the engine, then checking the tires can't be a big job.

Posted

the monitor may be in the value stem, so if you changed to snow tires without the sensors being changed you will not get the low tire pressure indicator to go off. I m a little confused on what you changed. You put on different rims too? My 07 has the senors in each value stem. So if I put differtn rims and tires without the sensor stems it will create a problem. Also the 07 shows each tires and the pressure ineach. Does this make any sense in your case?

Posted
the monitor may be in the value stem, so if you changed to snow tires without the sensors being changed you will not get the low tire pressure indicator to go off. I m a little confused on what you changed. You put on different rims too? My 07 has the senors in each value stem. So if I put differtn rims and tires without the sensor stems it will create a problem. Also the 07 shows each tires and the pressure in each. Does this make any sense in your case?

 

 

 

 

Hi Mark, thanks for the reply. Basically I had trouble getting rims, so I am taking the summer tires off, and putting the snow tires on the standard 17" alloy rims. I mark the tires to go on different rims, then put the rims back in the same position, so the end effect, is that the Tires get rotated twice a year, but the valves stay in the same position. I had assumed that this way, I get my rotation, and don't have a problem with having to reprogram the sensors.

 

Inside the rim there is a small plastic box, about 2" x 1 1/2" x 3/4" attached to the valve stem. This box is I assume the pressure sensor.

 

Now I had a very slow leak before the change (pressure dropped about 5 PSI over 3 weeks no matter how many miles I drove), and it was consistent over three tire swaps on the same rim, so I assumed it to be a valve, I told the tire place about this, and asked them to specifically check that valve for a leak. I am guessing now that they fond a leak, and played with or wriggled the valve or tightened it to stop the leak (it no longer leaks). BUT I got for about 2 weeks the "Check Tire Pressure warning".

 

Well now it all changed. Yesterday I got a "SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM" warning, and the low pressure yellow warning light has disappeared.

 

Personally I think that tire pressure is something that needs to be checked manually, so I would be pretty happy if I could just deactivate the whole system. So basically is there an option to just kill the whole system so it doesn't give me these messages?

Posted

Don t know about shutting down the whole system? To re set the system you let air out of each tire until the warning comes on for each tire (guessing about 20-30 lbs). Then just re air them and they should re set each one in the correct loction.To do this I would get a pressure gauge and of coarse air.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...