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Replacing Intake Manifold Gasket Help!


chevsuz12

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Posted

Hi guys, I have a 2003 Suburban K1500 with 5.3L Flex Fuel engine. Only 30,000 miles. (Not under warranty due to age of vehicle.) My check engine light is on, and getting the codes P0171, P0174. I did the Carb Cleaner Spray test and found a significant drop in RPM's when sprayed around the Drivers side front of manifold. I retorqued the bolts, but it didn't help.

 

So I am suspecting I need to replace the gasket. Is there any special tools needed for this? Or do I just need the Gasket replacement set? Do I need any special sealant? Any thing I should watch out for? Is there anything else that will need to be replaced due to the replacement of the intake gasket?

 

 

Thanks, for all of your help. I read many of the past posts on this subject and it saved me countless hours and $ from troubleshooting the situation otherwise!

 

Also can anyone recommend an OBD 2 scan tool that is relatively cheap?

 

Thanks!!!

Blain.

Posted
Hi guys, I have a 2003 Suburban K1500 with 5.3L Flex Fuel engine. Only 30,000 miles. (Not under warranty due to age of vehicle.) My check engine light is on, and getting the codes P0171, P0174. I did the Carb Cleaner Spray test and found a significant drop in RPM's when sprayed around the Drivers side front of manifold. I retorqued the bolts, but it didn't help.

 

So I am suspecting I need to replace the gasket. Is there any special tools needed for this? Or do I just need the Gasket replacement set? Do I need any special sealant? Any thing I should watch out for? Is there anything else that will need to be replaced due to the replacement of the intake gasket?

 

 

Thanks, for all of your help. I read many of the past posts on this subject and it saved me countless hours and $ from troubleshooting the situation otherwise!

 

Also can anyone recommend an OBD 2 scan tool that is relatively cheap?

 

Thanks!!!

Blain.

 

 

To Remove:

 

NOTE: The intake manifold, throttle body, fuel injection rail, and fuel injectors may be removed as an assembly. If not servicing the individual components, remove the manifold as a complete assembly.

 

 

Remove or disconnect the following:

PCV hose and valve

MAP sensor, if required

Engine coolant air bleed clamp and hose from the throttle body

Accelerator control cable bracket and bolts, if required

 

Fig. 2: EVAP solenoid removal-4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L

 

 

 

 

EVAP solenoid, bolt, and isolator

Intake manifold bolts

Intake manifold with gaskets

Intake manifold-to-cylinder head gaskets from the manifold. Discard the intake manifold gaskets.

Fuel rail with injectors

 

Fig. 3: Throttle body removal-4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L

 

 

 

 

Throttle body and gasket

Clean the intake manifold in solvent.

Dry the intake manifold with compressed air.

Inspect the throttle body studs and stud inserts for looseness or damaged threads.

Inspect the wire harness stud and stud insert for looseness or damaged threads.

Inspect the fuel rail bolt inserts for looseness or damaged threads.

Inspect the intake manifold vacuum passages for debris or restrictions.

Inspect for damaged or broken vacuum fittings, damaged MAP sensor mounting bore, or broken MAP sensor retaining tabs.

Inspect the composite intake manifold assembly for cracks or other damage.

Inspect the areas between the intake runners. Inspect all the gasket sealing surfaces for damage.

Inspect the fuel injector bores for excessive scoring or damage. Inspect the intake manifold cylinder head deck for warpage.

Locate a straight edge across the intake manifold cylinder head deck surface. Position the straight edge across a minimum of two runner port openings.

Insert a feeler gauge between the intake manifold and the straight edge. A intake manifold with warpage in excess of 3 mm (0.118 in) over a 200 mm (7.87 in) area is warped and should be replaced.

To Install:

 

NOTE: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

 

Install or connect the following:

MAP sensor

EVAP solenoid, bolt, and isolator. Tighten the EVAP solenoid bolt to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).

NEW intake manifold-to-cylinder head gaskets

Intake manifold. Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) band of threadlock GM P/N 12345382 or equivalent to the threads of the intake manifold bolts.

Intake manifold bolts. Tighten intake manifold bolts first pass in sequence to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). Tighten intake manifold bolts final pass in sequence to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).

 

Fig. 4: Lower intake manifold bolt tightening sequence-4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines

 

 

 

 

PCV valve and hose. Install the engine coolant air bleed hose and clamp onto the throttle body.

Accelerator control cable bracket and bolts, if applicable. Tighten the accelerator control cable bracket bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).

Posted
Wow, thanks for the detailed info!

No problem, happy to help.

 

I wish I could have encluded the pictures but I have no way of posting them.

Posted

After reading Norseman's post, I believe I will be taking mine to a Prof Tech if mine starts leaking.

 

Not sure I would want to tackle this. Hopefuly it is easier than it sounds.

Posted
Wow, thanks for the detailed info!

No problem, happy to help.

 

I wish I could have encluded the pictures but I have no way of posting them.

 

 

 

Thanks again, pics would be nice! If there is any way you could email them it would be appreciated. My Email is [email protected] I think I will purchase a service manual for the truck; that would be a big help as well.

 

 

Thanks yet again.

Posted
After reading Norseman's post, I believe I will be taking mine to a Prof Tech if mine starts leaking.

 

Not sure I would want to tackle this. Hopefuly it is easier than it sounds.

 

 

Trey, it's actually a very easy job. Don't let it scare ya.

Posted
Wow, thanks for the detailed info!

No problem, happy to help.

 

I wish I could have encluded the pictures but I have no way of posting them.

 

 

 

Thanks again, pics would be nice! If there is any way you could email them it would be appreciated. My Email is [email protected] I think I will purchase a service manual for the truck; that would be a big help as well.

 

 

Thanks yet again.

 

 

 

I'll try to get it to you this evening.

Posted
After reading Norseman's post, I believe I will be taking mine to a Prof Tech if mine starts leaking.

 

Not sure I would want to tackle this. Hopefuly it is easier than it sounds.

 

 

Trey, it's actually a very easy job. Don't let it scare ya.

 

 

I hope I do not get the "opportunity" to find out how easy it is. :rolleyes:

Posted
Wow, thanks for the detailed info!

No problem, happy to help.

 

I wish I could have encluded the pictures but I have no way of posting them.

 

 

 

Thanks again, pics would be nice! If there is any way you could email them it would be appreciated. My Email is [email protected] I think I will purchase a service manual for the truck; that would be a big help as well.

 

 

Thanks yet again.

 

 

 

Ok, you should have it.

Posted

Well I replaced the intake gaskets today. It took about 4 hours for me to do it. It wasn't very difficult to do. She runs as smooth as can be now. And the pesky Check Engine Light is not reappearing! Codes are gone!

 

I wonder if this has been a problem since new with this truck, as it has never idled this smooth....ever.

 

Thanks, again for the assistance. My dealer wanted $800.00 to do this!

 

My cost was:

 

Gasket set.........$45

Torque Wrench..$20

OBDII Scantool.$90

4 hours of my time.....a helluva lot less than $800.00!!!!!!!!!

Posted
Well I replaced the intake gaskets today. It took about 4 hours for me to do it. It wasn't very difficult to do. She runs as smooth as can be now. And the pesky Check Engine Light is not reappearing! Codes are gone!

 

I wonder if this has been a problem since new with this truck, as it has never idled this smooth....ever.

 

Thanks, again for the assistance. My dealer wanted $800.00 to do this!

 

My cost was:

 

Gasket set.........$45

Torque Wrench..$20

OBDII Scantool.$90

4 hours of my time.....a helluva lot less than $800.00!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Glad it worked out for ya and you saved a bunch of cash. Doesn't that make you feel good!?!?

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