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Is It Easy To Lube My Slip Yoke?


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Posted

Just bought a 2000 ext. cab 1500 4x4. It has 108000 miles on it but looks pretty good for its age. I am going to retire the 94 c1500 i think and use the 2000 for my work truck. One of the things i have to fix on the 2000 is the slip yoke clunk when taking of from a stop. Anybody have step by step instuctions on this? Any special tools needed? So far i havent drove the truck anywhere since i want to fix a few things on it first. I need to post some pics of all the trucks in my sig. but i am a slow computer learner,lol. Thanks in advance

Posted
Just bought a 2000 ext. cab 1500 4x4. It has 108000 miles on it but looks pretty good for its age. I am going to retire the 94 c1500 i think and use the 2000 for my work truck. One of the things i have to fix on the 2000 is the slip yoke clunk when taking of from a stop. Anybody have step by step instuctions on this? Any special tools needed? So far i havent drove the truck anywhere since i want to fix a few things on it first. I need to post some pics of all the trucks in my sig. but i am a slow computer learner,lol. Thanks in advance

 

 

I have a 2000 also. Mine was making the clunking noise also. I had a bad u-joint on the rear end of the drive shaft. I changed that and took some hi-temp grease and and coated the splines of the slip yoke. I didn't put a whole lot on. Anyway no more clunking noise, don't know if it was all the ujoint or the grease helped too.

Posted
Just bought a 2000 ext. cab 1500 4x4. It has 108000 miles on it but looks pretty good for its age. I am going to retire the 94 c1500 i think and use the 2000 for my work truck. One of the things i have to fix on the 2000 is the slip yoke clunk when taking of from a stop. Anybody have step by step instuctions on this? Any special tools needed? So far i havent drove the truck anywhere since i want to fix a few things on it first. I need to post some pics of all the trucks in my sig. but i am a slow computer learner,lol. Thanks in advance

 

 

I have a 2000 also. Mine was making the clunking noise also. I had a bad u-joint on the rear end of the drive shaft. I changed that and took some hi-temp grease and and coated the splines of the slip yoke. I didn't put a whole lot on. Anyway no more clunking noise, don't know if it was all the ujoint or the grease helped too.

 

I think the previous owner of my truck thought it was a rear u-joint also because i remember him telling me he just changed it. I had a 2000 1500 for several years as a company work truck and it had the slip yoke problem as well. Just wondering if all you have to do is unbolt the rear ujoint and pull the whole thing out? or is the slip yoke bolted on?
Posted

Once you get the driveshaft free the shaft should just slide right out the tail of the transmission. Be sure to make an index mark somewhere so you get the drive shaft back in the same position.

 

Assuming your 2000 works like my 2003 (i.e. one-piece shaft), just take out the four bolts at the differential, remove the two straps, free the drive shaft from the differential by sliding it forward a little, and then pull it straight out towards the back. Should come right out. Install is in reverse order.

Posted

I have been here before, we tend to think slip yoke but it very often is leaf spring wrap up. I bet your problem is there.

 

Ken

Posted

Sure. Call Trixie at 976-ESY-LUBE. She'll lube your yoke in 3 mins for $20.

 

(Sorry this wasn't a serious post - I'm trying to get my 5 response quota in before the board will let me post something real.)

Posted
I have been here before, we tend to think slip yoke but it very often is leaf spring wrap up. I bet your problem is there.

 

Ken

I will try the slip yoke first maybe today if it warms up in the 30's. As for the leaf springs what would be the problem there? On my last work truck thr nylon pads between the leafs had worn out and caused the springs to sqeek and groan when flexed. This is more of a clunk like something is under pressure and then released. ( kinda like the first fart of the morning)
Posted

I have a 2000 ecsb 4x4 too. I replaced my u-joints at 100k miles for squeaking. You'll have to use a torch to heat up the molded plastic that holds the stock ones in. (unless the previous owner did change them, in which case he would have already done that of course). Don't forget to chock your wheels when undoing the driveshaft so it doesn't roll on you. As I recall, you won't need to index it, cause there is a keyed master spline in the slip yoke. I lubed mine with some high temp grease for good measure, but it wasn't making noise.

Posted

I went to a local dealer yesterday trying to find out how much the grease that GM recomends for the slip yoke costs. The parts guy gives me a dumb look and says its just regular grease. I said no, i dont think so, it has a part no# but i didnt bring it. It takes about 10 min. for him to find and it was $53.00 for a 1 lb. container. Here is my next question... can i use just any grease? Is it exposed to the transfer case fluid and will it break down and cause a problem? The parts guy told me the mechanics were just using vasaline untill recently then switched to a red colored grease thats basicly just tinted vasiline. Does this sound right?

Posted

I had a clunk in the yoke of my 2002 4x4 Sierra back around 50000 miles and the dealer replaced my yoke with a "improved" yoke (they said something about nickel plated or some such thing) and I have been clunkless ever since. This was done while it was still under warranty (along with another attempted fix for the steering column clunk).

Posted

 

 

I used the same lube I use for my ball joints etc. Valvoline synthetic. I havn't had any problems.
I am just kinda concerned about the Auto-crap tranfer case, if i use regular grease wont the transfer case fluid disolve it over time? I just removed my drive shaft tonight and it looks like the there was no grease on the slip yoke at all. Just trans. fluid. I had thought about using some marine wheel bearing grease on it but after reading the container it says " dont mix grease of different soaps" which makes me think maybe i shouldnt use it. Cant believe the dealerships dont even use the correct grease for these things. I will not pay $53.00 for a container of grease i might use 3 or 4 times.They want about $130 for the nickel plated yoke. They should be giving it away since its a fualty design to begin with.
Posted

I have a question.

 

I have never done lubed the yokes on either of my Tahoes, but I havnt had the clunk.

 

On my jeep when i replaced the u joints on the rear drive shaft, I didnt even notice if i could put the drive shaft in the same way as it came out, why is it important that it be intexed? I would think that because of the u joints, that the drive shaft should be able to bend no matter wich way. and it is suposed to be balanced. Why does it matter?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

The silver plated yokes are the fix for the "roll on clunk" as the TSB says... so try that, its about 250.00 bucks and u have to remove the front u-joint and all that cool stuff :thumbs:

Posted
The silver plated yokes are the fix for the "roll on clunk" as the TSB says... so try that, its about 250.00 bucks and u have to remove the front u-joint and all that cool stuff :thumbs:

250 bucks??! good F'n game...

 

What's the part number for the new yoke?

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