michigan2500hd started following Audio install, Rattling from Instrument Cluster, FIXED - Vibration Only On Acceleration - New 2018 2000 MIles and and 5 others
I had the rattle several times. Twice it was under the long dash insert.. Wires were rattling against the plastic cover just like the previous generation of trucks. Another stemmed from my LOC under the dash for my amp . This last rattle I had came out of nowhere and it was the 4 screws on the panel under the steering column. They had worked out about 1/4". If you sit in the truck and tap around with your fingers you may be able to narrow down were the rattle is. Sometimes you can think the noise is coming from one place but it ends up coming from something nearby.
michigan2500hd replied to TwoBallScrewBall's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingI noticed when I had swapped out my stock blocks for 3" blocks I had the same feeling you did. Even when stopped and giving it gas to get over a hump I had going into the garage. I went back to stock and it lessoned quite a bit. Now again I'm wanting to lift the rear a little bit I'm thinking 2" blocks this time.
I should mention that I have the Max Tow package with the stiffer ride so when I say I don't recommend the Bilsteins take that into consideration. I didn't like them at all as I felt EVERY little seam in the pavement..I swear you could paint a line across the road and I could feel it when I drove over it. I'm much much happier with the poly spacer kit and stock " black" shocks.
I had this issue when I had my Bilstein leveling shocks on but it went away when I put the stock shocks back on the front. Sheet that I installed a soccer leveling kit but the noise is still gone. Could very well be the shocks but I'd get another opinion and wouldn't let the dealership do the work.. They want ridiculous rates..
Ditch the 20" wheels. Go for 17 or 18" stock wheels and stock size tire that's rated the same as it left the factory. I've found the Goodyear SR-A's to ride the best and if you don't off-road then they're not as bad as you hear about. I wouldn't do Bilsteins as they will definitely firm up the ride and you're going to feel every seam and tiny imperfection in the road. Stick with the black factory shocks.
Typically the Bilsteins will amplify the small jarring bumps and pavement cracks, seams, etc. It was really noticable in a video I shot with the Bilsteins and then again without. You could hear the truck hitting the little bumps with the Bilsteins and it smoothed out when I went back to the stock black shocks.
Before I catch hell from the Bilstein guys on here I will say the one thing they did better was prevent the passengers from being bobbleheads. The factory shocks are terrible in that regard.
Bilsteins are by no means smoother. I had them all the way around but eventually went back to stock. I also went for the ridiculous 20" wheels to the 18" stock wheels and my ride is way better then it ever was. And this is with a Max tow that's sprung heavier in the rear. Funny that yesterday I was looking at a couple videos I took while doing some short speed bursts to see what the magnaflow sounded like. I also saw some I had took with the Bilsteins and stock 20" wheels and even in the video the pavement seams and small bumps made a loud banging noise. The camera would really jolt. The new video was much smoother. Just my take on them.
The model is JL10TW1. I'm not sure but there may be one that's just as thin or maybe thinner. Not sure. I went for one that was a little more expensive but the guy running the store said with my amp this one would be better suited to me. It is a thin sub, no doubt about that.
I had the same school of thought. I had these Kenwood 12"s and a couple single boxes that would only fit standing up. I just couldn't get the sound I wanted. I could shake the truck hard but not what I wanted. Decided to spend the money on the JL sand I couldn't be happier. I may even get one more and a double box that actually fits. The one i modiy was for a 2011 crew cab, I gave a double cab. Good luck! Oh and the reviews for the JL says it can hit lower than most tens is correct.
Not uncommon for stock speedos to be off 2-3 mph. I could handle it being off1-2 mph. Mines off about 5-6 % in favor of not getting a ticket. Makes some drivers mad and then I remember it's not really 70 that I'm going lol.
I had a double 12" box with two Kenwood Excelons in it in my 2011. I've had a hard time getting on board with Kenwood though. This time on my 2015 I kept everything stock and just added a 500 watt / 300 rms amp and took a double 10" box I already had and cut it in half. Sealed the end and used a 10" JL 10TW1. I thought about a 12 but personality I like a tighter bass. The JL gets pretty low too. Hits super hard in my opinion and it's clean. I have a bass knob under the dash so I can fine tune it to the song and style of music. Just thought I'd throw the single 10" possibility out there.
Interested to see what you think of them. I have my stockers back on because the Bilsteins were a bit rough. Just wanted to see the difference. However if I could get a smoother stock ride for normal use and firm it up a little for trailering with a adjustable shock I'd definitely consider that.
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